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Old 09-19-2012, 03:00 PM   #673
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The 8 in. brackets would give the extra drop to allow adjusting of the nuts to clear the frame. However I think it would be necessary to drill new lower bolt holes so the bolts were close enough to the frame to allow for the welded stops. Not a problem just a consideration.

When I get home after this weekends trip I will lower my brackets to use the upper hole for a 6 in frame and drill out the set screw hole to accept the lower bolt then align things and have stops welded on the top and bottom of the frame.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:55 PM   #674
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I keep thinking about alternative ways the chain and bushing system could be done. One thought that I keep coming up with is that the bushings don't need to be on the frame end of the chains where the small movement (chug) has caused the chain to wear. If the bushing was at the triangular plate end of the chain, the adjusting nut system would not have any movement on the frame end and thus no wear. Another place it could be is in the center of the chain, it just has to be somewhere in the chain system. The bushing needs to be in compression so some kind of a system which kept it in that mode is necessary.

I realize that this would need some re-engineering and have not come up with any simple design that I could make at this point, but maybe someone else could start thinking about it. The point would be to have the bushing unit separated from the adjusting nut so the flex would be there without the chain movement in the square tube. I can even visualize some kind of an over center side ways snap up bracket so once adjusted the chains could be tensioned with a lever action, something like the conventional spring bars use.

Yes, this is Andersen's issue to solve, but just thinking out loud here, how to make it better, simple and grease free, as well as attach to the frame easier, and maybe even more universally, for different frame depths.
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Old 09-19-2012, 03:59 PM   #675
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What would you need to use the Anderson hitch on 2 different Airstreams? Just another set of brackets? What is the distance the bracket needs to be mounted on the trailer? I need to see if it will clear my propane tanks with the standard setup. Thanks for any information.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:05 PM   #676
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As I recall, it is 28" from the center of the ball on the coupler to the front of the frame brackets. I am not at home right now to measure it again. I posted the number somewhere back a ways in this thread but can't find it right now.

Yes, all you would need is another set of brackets for a second trailer, assuming you did not change the chain length for any reason.
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Old 09-19-2012, 04:33 PM   #677
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Rather than attempt to duplicate the set up for use on 2 different trailers. I would just do a complete set on each trailer and record the final length on the screws. With that information changing trailers would just be hook up and set the acme screws to the recorded length.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:17 PM   #678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill M. View Post
What would you need to use the Anderson hitch on 2 different Airstreams? Just another set of brackets? What is the distance the bracket needs to be mounted on the trailer? I need to see if it will clear my propane tanks with the standard setup. Thanks for any information.
I had to shorten my chains to clear the propane tanks, but it didn't work as I wanted so I lengthened them by about a link and it worked perfect. You could do it with one set but it might be easier to order chains and brackets if they can't go in the same place.
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Old 09-19-2012, 05:23 PM   #679
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Personally I would not weld in a stop on the frame. I would weld the bracket to the frame. There isn't an advantage welding in a stop and it won't look as nice.

I drove 15 miles to the weld shop to get my door frame fixed today. I had the chain brackets at my new angle. There was no chain noise or rubbing that I could tell. But it was only 15 miles. 400 mile trip to Zion in 5 weeks will be the real test.

I like the idea of dropping the bracket with a larger frame mount, this is an easy fix, but you will have to know some measurements to get it right.

With my angle and the brackets welded (not yet) I foresee no more problems. Waiting on replacement chain for the one that wore badly, before I weld it all up..
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Old 09-20-2012, 07:36 AM   #680
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I do wish someone from Andersen would chime in here. I am curious as to what they think about the modifications (proposed and actual) that some are making. Until the issue of the rubbing was brought up here I had not even thought about it. Looking at mine I do see some noticeable rubbing of the chain and the housing but not sure if it will actually be bad enough in the future to be an issue.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:41 AM   #681
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Our Equal-I-Zer brackets would not stay put either, various mods have been made to keep them in place by users. That is the problem with any type of universal bracket that is not bolted through or welded to the frame.

It looks like the operation of the Andersen hitch is intended to have a near direct path into the bracket tubes. Like so many of these universal mounts, some users will have to bolt or weld them to the frame to ensure proper and reliable operation.

I think the best solution here is as near as the welding shop. Bolt them on through the upper holes to keep the bracket low and in line with the chains, add the lower bolt either by drilling out the set screw holes or in the lower original position, and weld the outer bracket to the frame.

doug k
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:32 PM   #682
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Hi, and while they are at it, dropping the brackets and/or angling the tubes downward, They also should twist the tubes outward too. [let's get this straight]
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:50 PM   #683
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They also should twist the tubes outward too. [let's get this straight]
Another variable in the equation. While the plate to frame relationship is constant once installed not all Frame angles are the same. Thus the position of the tube to the bracket will have to be set at a happy medium.

A means of getting the first pivot point on the chain forward of the leading edge of the tube is one possibilities. This would require using a sliding block within the tube as the means to keep the Acme screw from rotating while tightening. The chain would then be welded to that block forward of the face of the tube. All movement within the tube would be flat surfaces against on another reducing the force per contact area. Light oil or grease within the tube would go a long way.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:45 PM   #684
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I thought I should follow up here.

I did purchase an Anderson hitch to try out. We decided to connect it to middle of the road combination. A 25' International and our workhorse 2007 Dodge Charger. The Charger has been modified somewhat, it has the rear springs from the Magnum station wagon and air bags. (We often tow some pretty heavy box trailers with this car.) The rear suspension is firmer than most 1/2 ton pick ups and suv's. The wheel base is 120" with a moderate overhang so not the shortest vehicle to transfer weight on but easier than a suburban or pick-up.

When we connect a 25 to this car with a Hensley or Eaz-Lift system the car is pushed down 3/4" at the front and rear. So it sits exactly on the same level as it does without the trailer.

When we set up the Anderson we could not get adequate weight transfer. We got to the point where we had the jack as high as it would go and even put bolts in the chains to take up the residual slack then we tightened the nuts until the aluminum socket appear ready to break. Then we lowered the jack to further tension the cushions. In the picture you can see the cushions were substantially squashed but the best we could do was to have the car down 3.25" at the rear and up 1/2" at the front. We did drill the brackets into the frame so they would not slide.

It is not all bad news however, considering how little weight transfer occurred the straight line handling was still reasonably good. It did not handle nearly was well as a properly set up Eaz-Lift but much better than an Eaz-Lift set up with so little weight transfer. I would conclude that the sway control is very effective. As others have said it is light to carry and would be easier for some that are physically challenged to connect. In an evasive maneuver you can feel more weight transfer side to side and further lightening of the front wheels because the hitch has no rearward angle but that could be corrected by re-welding the shank assembly to provide it.

One concern would be winter use since you are lighting the steering axle but not decreasing the sway control you might find yourself going straight when you were hoping to turn.

All in all I can see it being useable on a short wheelbase, short overhang tow vehicle towing a trailer with a lighter hitch weight.

Andrew
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:11 PM   #685
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I thought I should follow up here.

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I did purchase an Anderson hitch to try out.

(Snip)
All in all I can see it being useable on a short wheelbase, short overhang tow vehicle towing a trailer with a lighter hitch weight.

Andrew
Andrew: I am glad you have given the Andersen a try. I have a shorter wheelbase 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee and a 20' Argosy trailer. Trailer weight is 4200# and hitch weight is 700#. I can only report that I have no problems at all getting weight transfer onto the front of the Jeep and I am at a loss to see why you are having problems. Your bushings are compressed more than any I have seen shown here on this thread.

I find my setup to be very stable, and easy to drive for the past 4000 miles or so of towing. It feels better to me than my Draw Tight round bar system or my Reese square bar system.

All other reports here on this thread (admittedly by those who have tried and liked the Andersen) are positive. No one has had weight transfer issues.

So, I guess we have a mystery here. It will be good to see how it plays out.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:13 PM   #686
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I am about to leave for the week end but I have to say you did something wrong. Please go back and read the instructions.

I move the front of my Excursion down 3/8 of an in. with almost no noticeable compression on the bushing. My truck is sprung much heaver than your car.

Hopefully someone will chime in before you drive anywhere.
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