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Old 09-17-2012, 06:25 AM   #659
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Ware is a function of load and motion. Flaring will not reduce either of these. Improving or eliminating the angle is the only approach open to us at this point.

The ware at the top inside of the bracket is just the second contact point for that link of the chain as it is pulled out of the bracket. That is just a function of that links location in the tube and may or may not show up in other installation.
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Old 09-17-2012, 12:10 PM   #660
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Initial impressions...great!

Well, I drank the Kool-Aid and went on a short, 400 mile trip with the Andersen hitch. Previous hitch was an EAZ-Lift w/o sway controls. It was all good on the trip, although I didn't encounter any really challenging conditions. Passing big rigs did not cause any sway, nor did occasional 20-30 mph wind gusts. And it definitely smoothed out the bumps in the road as well.

Given the discussion on this thread, just a few observations. The install was precisely by the book. I have a 5" frame and used the set screws on the inside and outside. The installer was able to tighten them 3 full rotations, as the manual states. The brackets did not move at all. The brackets are perpendicular to the frame (per the manual) and there was no rubbing of the chains against the tube (not even a slight scuffing).

If there is one word I would use to describe the hitch it would be "solid" as I felt very comfortable towing with it. Took it up to 70 mph and felt no different. The ease of hitching and unhitching is incomparable. (I unscrew the bolts.)

I'll be traveling some 3,000 miles with the Andersen by mid-October and I'll let you know if anything has changed.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:32 PM   #661
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Can you say convert?

OK, got the Andersen hitch installed after taking the draw bar to a welder for reassembly at the right height. The rest of the installation was non eventful, but I did weld stopping blocks on the bottom side of the trailer tongue to prevent the side brackets from tilting or slipping. The brackets were installed where they are pushing up against the propane tank mounts on the top which prevents the top from slipping.

This trailer is about 3,500 pounds, and 400 pounds tongue weight. The adjustment for the proper weight distribution went suprisingly easy, and I was rather taken by the light amount of tention required on the chains to return the front of the vehicle to it's non hitched height. As a matter of fact, I adjusted it too tight on initial attempt, and had to back off to raise the front back up a bit.

I was towing the trailer with a Drawtite single round bar WD hitch with a single friction slide anti sway bar.

As a test, I took the trailer on a known bumpy road with a speed limit of 60, and my first impressions are the hitch is VERY good. The ride is much better than the ride with the round bar hitch, with much less bucking. It seems to force the vehicle's suspension to work rather than allow the hitch's suspension to flex so much.

I also actually tried to make the trailer sway by whipping the steering wheel at 65 MPH, and the trailer did not sway. In comparison to the friction slide anti sway bar of the Drawtite, I would estimate the Andersen is easily twice as effective, if not more.

I am very pleased with this hitch.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:42 PM   #662
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Now there is a statement and pictures any apprehensive Bumble Bee would get inspiration from.
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Old 09-17-2012, 03:48 PM   #663
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One thing I might add, this was a before and after test because I knew I had not towed this rig in a while, so yesterday I took it for the same test drive, over the same road, at the same speeds with the Drawtite hitch so it would be fresh in my mind.

A HA HA killer??? Not ready to call it that, but it is good, very good.

At this time I would recommend the hitch over ANY other brand of standard WD hitch that I have used, which would be both types of Reese Dual Cam, a Eazlift, a Curt replica of a Eazlift, and the Drawtite.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:17 PM   #664
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Hi, unlike an Airstream, Your Casita's tongue and coupler are raised, therefore your chains look pretty straight.
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:05 PM   #665
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Us bumblebees loves our kool aid. Glad to see more confirmation of what I have found with my Andersen hitch. My rig is one solid unit, and even though I never objected to my Reese trunyon bar or Draw Tight round bar hitches from the towing quality, the Andersen is better.
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:05 PM   #666
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I'm getting very, very close to giving the Anderson a try. I got a newer trailer this past summer and it came with a newer WD hitch. ( not sure of the brand ). It has the round bars. My old trailer / hitch had the rectangular bars. I actually liked the old ones better than the new. The newer ones are a pain in the BUTT. I've had one of the bars fall out of the hitch and get dragged along by the chain more than once. The older ones were attached differently and could not fall out. So I'm ready for a change and I like what I've seen and read about these Andersons. I need to measure the ball height on my truck so when I call them we can decide which draw bar I will need. Are there any other measurements I will need to check on ????
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Old 09-19-2012, 01:17 PM   #667
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You should be Good to Go.

Man, for those with doubts, is there going to be a lot of used Reese and Draw Tight equipment for sale on E bay if this keeps up.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:01 PM   #668
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Been looking at mine that I installed on the Casita, and looking at the Airstream.

I think IF I wanted to change to this hitch on the Airstream, I'd order the tongue brackets for an 8" frame, then weld them onto the frame so the square tubing is lower allowing a straighter pull on the chains. I believe this would help in reducing the chain wear that Airstream users are experiencing.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:29 PM   #669
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I agree the chain tube alignment is essential to prevent chain wear, and the low position of the coupler on Airstream creates the angle if standard install is used. I started to install mine but have stopped to reconsider the methods.

The 5"-6" bracket aligns very well on a 5" frame if the bracket is dropped down to the upper bolt holes for the 6" frame. Just not sure the best way to fasten it there.

I could drill two holes into each bracket and through the frame, then bolt it to the frame. That would hold but would it weaken the frame (a beam can be drilled in the center with little effect, but these bolt holes would have to be near the edges)? Or I could weld the brackets to the frame and be done with it, but what if I wanted to remove them?

No hurry, a few weeks yet before we hit the road to see if a revelation appears.

Word of caution on drilling the frame. Besides structural weakening question, the electrical hookup to the tow vehicle runs inside one of them.

doug k
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:35 PM   #670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
I could drill two holes into each bracket and through the frame, then bolt it to the frame. That would hold but would it weaken the frame (a beam can be drilled in the center with little effect, but these bolt holes would have to be near the edges)? Or I could weld the brackets to the frame and be done with it, but what if I wanted to remove them?
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Welded on brackets are much easier to remove with a hand grinder, IMHO than welding up unwanted drilled holes.

I had to remove one of the little anti sway bar balls from the tongue of the Casita to install the Andersen, and it took me less than 15 minutes to grind it off. And, there was no remaining damage to the tongue.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:36 PM   #671
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Or you can do as one suggested and weld a "stop" piece on the top (behind) and one on the bottom (in front) and then you can remove the hitch. The welded pieces would prevent the hitch brackets from shifting and you can remove them as well. It does sound like a workable solution.
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:43 PM   #672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kosm1o View Post
Or you can do as one suggested and weld a "stop" piece on the top (behind) and one on the bottom (in front) and then you can remove the hitch. The welded pieces would prevent the hitch brackets from shifting and you can remove them as well. It does sound like a workable solution.
That is exactly what I did on the Casita installation, except I used an existing propane bottle bracked for the top stop. However, if you used the 8" brackets, and mounted them lower so the chain alignment would be better, I believe more would be needed.
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