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Old 09-13-2012, 02:34 PM   #631
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Rubber Coated Trailer Chains

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Originally Posted by purman View Post
Ok so I hope these pictures and my explanation here will help..
Idoroba, Yes if you mount your brackets at a forward angle they will not move. The bolts on the top and bottom of the frame will only let the bracket move so much.

So once it is about 3/8 forward it will not move anymore. I mounted my vertical, and so they moved about 3/8 forward on the bottom to that froward facing angle. Once the bolts on the top and bottom get to a certain angle the frame stops them from going any further.

This angle increases the rubbing of the chains. If the brackets are vertical there is less rubbing, if the brackets angle back even less. You can only angle them back so far, just like they will only go so far forward. You can't get them to angle back far enough to get a perfect straight in line angle.. But you can get it close.

As you can see from these pictures I am going to angle my Brackets backwards so the chain will come out a little more in line with the bottom plate. This will stop the rubbing and noises I was also starting to here. I will also take a file to the inside of the bracket to get any sharp edges out.

This way of mounting will should take care of at least 90% of the chain rubbing.

I also included a picture of the wrench on the bolt to show you can still get to it to tighten it up.
Hi Jason,

As I mentioned earlier, I am certainly not an engineer but have an idea that might be useful to not only Andersen but others on the forum. I thought of using rubber coated trailer chains to help with the rubbing. Following is a link to them:
Amazon.com: Rubber Coated Trailer Chains: Sports & Outdoors

Just my two cents,
Wendy
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:01 PM   #632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafun

Hi Jason,

As I mentioned earlier, I am certainly not an engineer but have an idea that might be useful to not only Andersen but others on the forum. I thought of using rubber coated trailer chains to help with the rubbing. Following is a link to them:
Amazon.com: Rubber Coated Trailer Chains: Sports & Outdoors

Just my two cents,
Wendy
I like the idea. If the rubber is soft it will wear off. If it is hard it would last a lot longer. Maybe some kind of teflon coating??
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:40 PM   #633
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Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
thoughts; if one were to cut back or champher the square receiver, will this not let the chain twist when tightening? next, what about adding lengths to the chain thus reducing the angle as it come out of the receiver?
Finally, you engineers are talking me out of using my new Andersen hitch and I haven't used it, only installed it. Setup, it looks like Jason's. Is the chain going to break?
mike
Mike: don't let the chain wear issue scare you off. It is a problem which will be solved soon, one way or another. For now, use some white grease where the welded on link and the first link move in the square tube. You might also chamfer the tube as suggested by others.

Let me stress, even in the event of chain failure, there is no danger involved. WD will be partly lost (one chain) but I doubt that both would fail at the same time. Even with total WD failure (both chains) the hitch simply would revert to a weight caring one. No uncoupling would be involved.

You will like your new hitch I am positive. I will be happy when the chain wear issue is resolved, but in no way would I go back to my old round bar or trunyon bar systems.
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Old 09-14-2012, 05:36 AM   #634
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Originally Posted by SteveH
Well, the remaining parts for my hitch arrived today. I must give credit to Andersen Hitch for expediting them second day air so I would have them by the weekend, however now there is another problem.

I ordered the hitch with the larger drop because I wanted to be able to tow this trailer with both my Toyota FJ Cruiser, and my 3/4 ton truck. So, with the ball mounted all the way up in the draw bar when it is pointed down, the ball is too low. Then with the ball mounted in the draw bar all the way down when it is pointed up, the ball is too high. Can't seem to be able to win this battle.

There is no way to get the thing at the proper ball height for the FJ Cruiser, and I have phoned this message to Dave Andersen who is supposed to call me back after his lunch. Seems like a nice, accomodating guy.
I mentioned this 3" gap problem I experienced also, in a previous post. Hard to believe these guys at Andersen missed this but they did. There should be room at the the short end of the stinger for another hole. You need to find someone with a milling machine and a good vice on it and drill another hole to cover that 3" gap. You need to get this hole precise or it won't fit , thus the milling machine. Fortunately I own a machine shop and did it myself. Otherwise I would call Andersen and have them do it or send you a modified one. It's crazy. All those mounting holes and a 3" gap. When I first used the hitch I opted for going a little high. I didn't like the way the trailer handled. So I added the hole and lowered the ball 1.5". Now it's perfect and handles properly.
One more caution. Use Loc-Tite on the bolts that hold the ball on or they might come loose as mine did. They should have provided bolts a little longer and provided lock washers. If those nuts are locking type, they dont work.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:04 AM   #635
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I mentioned this 3" gap problem I experienced also, in a previous post. Hard to believe these guys at Andersen missed this but they did. There should be room at the the short end of the stinger for another hole. You need to find someone with a milling machine and a good vice on it and drill another hole to cover that 3" gap. You need to get this hole precise or it won't fit , thus the milling machine. Fortunately I own a machine shop and did it myself. Otherwise I would call Andersen and have them do it or send you a modified one. It's crazy. All those mounting holes and a 3" gap. When I first used the hitch I opted for going a little high. I didn't like the way the trailer handled. So I added the hole and lowered the ball 1.5". Now it's perfect and handles properly.
One more caution. Use Loc-Tite on the bolts that hold the ball on or they might come loose as mine did. They should have provided bolts a little longer and provided lock washers. If those nuts are locking type, they dont work.
I would have another hole drilled, but there's not room for one in my draw bar. It will require a different drawbar, or this one cut apart and rewelded at a different position to make it work. Since this weld supports all the weight and load of towing the trailer, it's not one I'm willing to do with my little welder, or my welding skills.
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:05 PM   #636
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You are correct not to do that, as that weld would not be good enough even if done by an expert. I would definitely call Andersen about it. I am curious as to their explanation.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:22 PM   #637
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Well, Dave Andersen was supposed to call me back yesterday with his thoughts on what to do about this. He didn't call.

I have his personal phone number, so I called him today. He did not answer. I left a message for him to call me. He didn't call.

So......I have cut the draw bar apart and figured out where it needs to be welded back together to get the proper ball height for both my tow vehicles. I will tack it together, and then take it to a professional welder here to get it done right.

Maybe I pissed him off, and I know that is within my capabilities.
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Old 09-14-2012, 08:58 PM   #638
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Well, I can assure you that he is probably getting a lot of calls about that problem. If you and I had that, many others have or will. The trick in welding that is getting the inside weld ,and then grinding it down so the aluminum ball/break assembly will fit as it should. I will call them myself as well just because it ticks me off. I am a small manufacturer and can't imagine not taking care of something like this.
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Old 09-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #639
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Mine has no weld on the inside, it is all welded on the outside. I cut the weld off with a band saw, Then used a grinder, then a belt sander to get it smooth and remove paint in preperation for the rewelding.
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Old 09-15-2012, 05:55 AM   #640
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Maybe he is tired of dealing with AS owners and you guys have put us on the blacklist. If so, thanks from the rest of us who may have wanted some advise in the future. Anderson is a large company so why would the owner want to respond continually to a few AS owners with too much time on their hands and with an know it all attitude? Do not mean to tick anyone off but if you so called engineers want to haggle this back and forth, okay. But do not expect the owner of the company to participate all the time. AS is a small percentage of their overall business. FLAME AWAY. Jim
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:27 AM   #641
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Maybe he is tired of dealing with AS owners and you guys have put us on the blacklist. If so, thanks from the rest of us who may have wanted some advise in the future. Anderson is a large company so why would the owner want to respond continually to a few AS owners with too much time on their hands and with an know it all attitude? Do not mean to tick anyone off but if you so called engineers want to haggle this back and forth, okay. But do not expect the owner of the company to participate all the time. AS is a small percentage of their overall business. FLAME AWAY. Jim
That might be true about some of the carping here, but this new issue showing the chain wear needs to be addressed. I am about to purchase one of these systems, but this gives me pause. I hope the real explanation is that he wants to check things out more thoroughly and come up with a solution before he responds. He should know his answer will be widely disseminated.
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:42 AM   #642
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Widely disseminated? Only a small portion of rv owners read forums and an even smaller read air forums. In fact Few AS owners know the forums exist and only a few of them read it. Jim
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:53 AM   #643
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Widely disseminated? Only a small portion of rv owners read forums and an even smaller read air forums. In fact Few AS owners know the forums exist and only a few of them read it. Jim
Yes, but this is a hot issue regarding an easily demonstrable potential safety issue. "Widely disseminated" not to the casual reader, but to people like me doing "research" specifically on this hitch system, i.e. their customer base. This thread alone has led me to several others on this topic (the Anderson hitch,that is). And that pic here, showing that much wear in a new product are not a small thing. They need to address it and soon. It is likely that other owners will discover the same thing. They should be glad they got a heads-up by the phone call so they can do early damage control.
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:58 AM   #644
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The Andersen company has obviously NOT thoroughly tested their hitch or the obvious mistakes with the stinger and chain wear , posted here, would have been addressed already. Should those of us that OWN this hitch not expect these items to be at least addressed?
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