Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-13-2012, 07:16 AM   #617
4 Rivet Member
 
2005 28' Safari
saline , Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 408
I tried the set screws first and without drilling a seat for them, there is NO WAY they are going to hold that bracket from slipping. I tried it. After reading the charts showing how many pounds are pulling on those chains, you can see why. I decided drilling a smaller hole clean through the brackets and frame was the way to go and no more a problem than drilling a seat for the set screws. With a heavy 875# tongue weight, I doubt that method would work anyway. The brackets still slipped to the point that the top and bottom bolts of the bracket rest firmly against the frame and thus stop moving at that point. They have not moved since. The angle , however, is slightly forward of what you want but short of adding additional through bolts or welding the brackets to the frame , I don't see how this can be prevented and I also don't see this as being a problem worth the extra measures. The "flared" tube idea to stop the chain wear, sounds great but I am not sure I can do that even in my machine shop. I would recommend filing or grinding a champher on the inside edge of the tube before installation, when you can hold it in a vice and do a good job.
__________________

__________________
Kosm1o is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 09:04 AM   #618
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
I installed mine at the angle shown in my post #463 of this thread, tightened the set screw down without drilling a hole, and they have not moved since, over 4000 miles with a 700# hitch weight.

I would agree with you Kosm1o that Andersen should think of a new design for the frame brackets as they could use improvement in both how they attach and the way the chain slides in the square tube, causing wear on both parts. Do you think that the chamfer you suggest will hold up to the rubbing or will it simply make it take longer until some chain wear and tube wear occur? As I have noted, I am using a white grease on mine for now.
__________________

__________________
idroba is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:06 AM   #619
4 Rivet Member
 
2005 28' Safari
saline , Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 408
I am going to take a closer look at the whole chain thing after I hook it up to move it into storage this weekend.
__________________
Kosm1o is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:10 AM   #620
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
Chain wear and bracket angle

Ok so I hope these pictures and my explanation here will help..
Idoroba, Yes if you mount your brackets at a forward angle they will not move. The bolts on the top and bottom of the frame will only let the bracket move so much.

So once it is about 3/8 forward it will not move anymore. I mounted my vertical, and so they moved about 3/8 forward on the bottom to that froward facing angle. Once the bolts on the top and bottom get to a certain angle the frame stops them from going any further.

This angle increases the rubbing of the chains. If the brackets are vertical there is less rubbing, if the brackets angle back even less. You can only angle them back so far, just like they will only go so far forward. You can't get them to angle back far enough to get a perfect straight in line angle.. But you can get it close.

As you can see from these pictures I am going to angle my Brackets backwards so the chain will come out a little more in line with the bottom plate. This will stop the rubbing and noises I was also starting to here. I will also take a file to the inside of the bracket to get any sharp edges out.

This way of mounting will should take care of at least 90% of the chain rubbing.

I also included a picture of the wrench on the bolt to show you can still get to it to tighten it up.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2088.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	413.9 KB
ID:	168187   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2089.jpg
Views:	114
Size:	339.1 KB
ID:	168188  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2090.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	423.2 KB
ID:	168189  
__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:26 AM   #621
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Jason:

Thanks for the photos. I will have to see if mine might be changed that way, but it will require moving of my propane line on my rig. Not a big deal, but one more thing to do. I am hoping for an even easier solution, or one from Andersen. Towing season here only has a month to go, maybe by next spring a great solution will have been discovered.

I notice in your photo that you have used a quick link in your chain assembly. I assume that has worked out alright for you? They look strong, but wondered if they hold up under fairly heavy loads.
__________________
idroba is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:33 AM   #622
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
Holding the bracket in place..

There are several options for holding the brackets in place once you get them where you want them. The bolts alone will not do the job.
Also the set screw just tightened into the frame WILL NOT hold them in place.

Neither will Just tapping a small hole in the frame for the tip to sit in.. I know idroba, you did this, but your brackets were already facing forward. I did this too. If you look at the picture below you can see the set screw was pulled forward through the frame and left a grove in my frame because my brackets were vertical. (the shiny bit) This method doesn't work..


Andersen says you can drill a hole through the frame for the set screw to sit in. This should work.

Andersen also says you can put a small weld on the bracket and frame. This also will work.

When I talk to dave he said some JB weld might also hold the bracket in place?? maybe if you put it on the backside of the bracket and used it like glue, or like a weld on the front edge. I'm not sure if this would work..

Then there are the other options:

Bruce H had holes in his frame from the factory, so he just bolted it to the frame. This seems like the best method, If you have holes. I hate to drill to big holes in my frame all the way through..


You could drill one hole through the frame where the set screw is and put a bolt thought there also.

The last option is to put a small bolt in the top and bottom of the frame to stop the bolt that holds the bracket from moving. I placed a washer in the picture below to show where the bolt would go. This should also work.

The other pictures are of the wear on my chain and the bracket where the chain comes out of.

Some considerations, and a decision;

I'm not that crazy about drilling holes in my 4" frame. Thats why I only put a small tap in the frame for the set screw.

I also realized my cable that hooks up to the TV runs through the frame on the driver side. Drilling into this could be tricky when the bit pops through the frame. I would have to put a stop on the drill bit, and even then that could slip.

You wouldn't want to hit any wires, that would start a another project I don't want to have to deal with.

Welding is somewhat permanent but A weld can always be ground off. So for me, I think I will be putting a 1/2 to 3/4 inch weld along the front edge of the brackets towards the bottom..

Hope this helps with those getting their hitches and putting them on..

And any other ideas are most welcome. I'm sure I didn't think of all of them..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2092.jpg
Views:	93
Size:	362.6 KB
ID:	168190   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2086.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	329.7 KB
ID:	168191  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2081.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	282.1 KB
ID:	168192   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2082.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	316.4 KB
ID:	168193  

__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:34 AM   #623
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
Jason:

Thanks for the photos. I will have to see if mine might be changed that way, but it will require moving of my propane line on my rig. Not a big deal, but one more thing to do. I am hoping for an even easier solution, or one from Andersen. Towing season here only has a month to go, maybe by next spring a great solution will have been discovered.

I notice in your photo that you have used a quick link in your chain assembly. I assume that has worked out alright for you? They look strong, but wondered if they hold up under fairly heavy loads.
the quick link is rated to 2800#
__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:43 AM   #624
Rivet Master
 
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
Davenport , Iowa
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,456
Blog Entries: 1
thoughts; if one were to cut back or champher the square receiver, will this not let the chain twist when tightening? next, what about adding lengths to the chain thus reducing the angle as it come out of the receiver?
Finally, you engineers are talking me out of using my new Andersen hitch and I haven't used it, only installed it. Setup, it looks like Jason's. Is the chain going to break?
mike
__________________
Airtandem is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 11:59 AM   #625
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
thoughts; if one were to cut back or champher the square receiver, will this not let the chain twist when tightening? next, what about adding lengths to the chain thus reducing the angle as it come out of the receiver?
Finally, you engineers are talking me out of using my new Andersen hitch and I haven't used it, only installed it. Setup, it looks like Jason's. Is the chain going to break?
mike
Yes you are correct you don't want to cut the tube back, just take the front sharp edge off with a file so the chain can move over it a little easier. Angling the bracket back as in my picture should solve nearly all the chain wear..

Mike I have over 3000 miles and there are others with over 12,000 miles. This thing isn't going to brake. and like i said the chain is rated to 2000# but the braking point is probably more around 6000# These engineers just like to play with numbers and if you read all the posts you will notice they change them every time they post.. Me, I said from the beginning the numbers don't match real world use but nobody wanted to listen. anyway, get that thing hooked up and take a trip. You will love how simple it is to use and how well it does what they say it does..
__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 12:28 PM   #626
1 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Lodi , California
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 18
I loosen the acme nuts each time I unhitch. I've been on a quest to find the easiest way to set correct chain tension when hitching up. Pictures are probably better than words, so will keep it brief.

I use a General Tools 6" ruler with a stop guage so I can precisely measure how much bolt should be showing. Under $3 at Orchard Supply Hardware.

It is a nuisance to keep removing the socket to see if the right length has been reached. I got a 32mm GearWrench ratcheting wrench ($30 on Amazon). It is over 16" long, so I cut it down to a handy size.

Now I can just measure while tightening. Fast and easy.

Bruce
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	GearWrench-1.jpg
Views:	87
Size:	84.1 KB
ID:	168196   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tightening-1.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	46.7 KB
ID:	168197  

__________________
Bruce H. is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 12:35 PM   #627
Rivet Master
 
purman's Avatar
 
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce H. View Post
I loosen the acme nuts each time I unhitch. I've been on a quest to find the easiest way to set correct chain tension when hitching up. Pictures are probably better than words, so will keep it brief.

I use a General Tools 6" ruler with a stop guage so I can precisely measure how much bolt should be showing. Under $3 at Orchard Supply Hardware.

It is a nuisance to keep removing the socket to see if the right length has been reached. I got a 32mm GearWrench ratcheting wrench ($30 on Amazon). It is over 16" long, so I cut it down to a handy size.

Now I can just measure while tightening. Fast and easy.

Bruce

Nice idea, I thought about painting the treads that show, but you still have to take the socket off like you said. I like this idea.

Do you have any sort of wear on your chains where they come out of the tube?
__________________
Jason

May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
purman is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 12:48 PM   #628
Rivet Master
 
AWCHIEF's Avatar
 
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,135
Images: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
thoughts; if one were to cut back or champher the square receiver, will this not let the chain twist when tightening? next, what about adding lengths to the chain thus reducing the angle as it come out of the receiver?
Finally, you engineers are talking me out of using my new Andersen hitch and I haven't used it, only installed it. Setup, it looks like Jason's. Is the chain going to break?
mike
Mike, take the words and advice from the ACTUAL USERS. On paper helicopters and bumble bees can not fly, but they both do it very well.
I have at this point over 3500 miles on my Andersen, never looked back on my choice.
__________________
MICHAEL

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
AWCHIEF is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 01:02 PM   #629
1 Rivet Member
 
Currently Looking...
Lodi , California
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 18
Quote:
Do you have any sort of wear on your chains where they come out of the tube?
My hitch has been making creaking sounds when going thru parking lot dips for quite some time now. Never could figure out where it was coming from. After HowieE alerted us to the problem, I checked. Sure enough, the chain and tube shows the same wear as HowieE's pictures. Like others, I put some white grease on it. Going on a 800 mile trip next week, so will see how that works out.

This is really the first design issue I have seen in the Andersen hitch. I like the idea of aligning the tube with the direction of the chain, but that isn't an option for me unless I get new brackets. Think I will just keep applying grease and wait and see what others and (hopefully) Andersen come up with.

Bruce
__________________
Bruce H. is offline  
Old 09-13-2012, 01:57 PM   #630
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Well, the remaining parts for my hitch arrived today. I must give credit to Andersen Hitch for expediting them second day air so I would have them by the weekend, however now there is another problem.

I ordered the hitch with the larger drop because I wanted to be able to tow this trailer with both my Toyota FJ Cruiser, and my 3/4 ton truck. So, with the ball mounted all the way up in the draw bar when it is pointed down, the ball is too low. Then with the ball mounted in the draw bar all the way down when it is pointed up, the ball is too high. Can't seem to be able to win this battle.

There is no way to get the thing at the proper ball height for the FJ Cruiser, and I have phoned this message to Dave Andersen who is supposed to call me back after his lunch. Seems like a nice, accomodating guy.
__________________

__________________
SteveH is offline  
Closed Thread


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.