The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[Mike91208]

Originally Posted by Tino643

Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks

The procedure will vary as there are different ways to skin this cat, but this is what I do. I lock the coupler on the ball, then raise the trailer, along with the truck. I attach the triangular front plate to the hitch, then tighten the nuts until I have 8 threads showing (this will vary by configuration). I then lower the trailer completely and I'm ready to go. Reverse procedure to unhitch.

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Consider this as repair.

That's a neat trick!

I caught a little bit of a break. After disconnecting all seven wires inside the Stream and shoving the cable under the trailer, I was able to pull it from the front, behind the coupler, just enough to expose the damaged area without pulling the cable completely into the frame. There is still some hanging under the trailer that I can grab after the repair.

On closer inspection, it appears that I skinned 3 of the wires and some of the black cable insulation. I should be able to surgically remove more of the outer cover and separate and reinsulate those 3 wires. A few strands broke, but at least half seem to still be attached in each wire. Fortunately, the separate 2 blues wires, that run along with the 7 wire cable, did not get damaged. They appear to be connected to the emergency breakaway trailer brake system.

What should I use to plug up the big holes....floor of the trailer, and holes in the frame? RTV?

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by Tino643

Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks

I just replaced my Reese dual cam hitch with this. No way is this as complicated, or as heavy, or as bulky, as the Reese!

[dkottum]

To hitch, I back up the truck, then lower the coupler onto the ball enough to lock it, but no weight on ball. Then I install the triangle and tighten the chain nuts until each urethane bushing is compressed to 2 1/2" (varies by weight distribution needed). Then I lower the trailer until the tongue jack is stowed, check trailer for level, and ready to finish other hookups.

To unhitch, I raise the trailer with the tongue jack until I see the weight is just off the ball but no more. Then unlock the coupler, release the tension on the chains and remove the triangle, unhook everything else and raise the tongue enough to drive the truck away from the trailer.

The hitch installation book with the hitch gives the correct method, and I think I am following that. Very simple, light weight, and no grease.

doug k

[Kosm1o]

Originally Posted by Mike91208

The procedure will vary as there are different ways to skin this cat, but this is what I do. I lock the coupler on the ball, then raise the trailer, along with the truck. I attach the triangular front plate to the hitch, then tighten the nuts until I have 8 threads showing (this will vary by configuration). I then lower the trailer completely and I'm ready to go. Reverse procedure to unhitch.

You need to attach the triangle plate before you raise up the rig or the ball can come out of the housing.

[polarlyse]

Rich, Howie has the right idea. If you have a trailer ( big truck type ) parts supplier nearby they have a terminal box you can fasten to your frame. Pull your cable out of the frame and cut it where it's damaged. Strip the insulation and using the color codes in the terminal box connect the wires to one side. When you buy the box also get a few feet of 7 wire cable and connect the appropriate wire to the other side of the terminal in the box. You then need to get a connector to match your tow vehicle and connect that to the other end. If you keep all the colors straight you now have a new cable and plug and are good to go. Not difficult at all. Get some cable clamps while you're at it to secure the cable to the inside of the frame rail ( but now on the outside ). Essentially the same repair Howie has done. The terminal box will give a little more room to work in and coded terminals to make it easier.

Bye the way, got any suggestions I'll be doing this soon and was wondering how to avoid this exact thing happening to me ?????? At least I have a trailer supply house nearby and some 7 wire cable on hand. Just in case.

[slowmover]

Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

I just replaced my Reese dual cam hitch with this. No way is this as complicated, or as heavy, or as bulky, as the Reese!

The questions remain as to whether the Anderson can perform as well as a Dual Cam or Equalizer. The simplicity of the thing is the great attraction should it ever prove out.

.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by Tino643

Hello, I am about to buy a Anderson. However, everyone says that is easier to hitch and unhitch. Could someone explain how this is done. I think it looks more complicated than reese hitch.

Thanks

Hitch: Drop the trailer on the ball, raise it slightly with the jack, but not enough to pull the tapered shank out of the socket (maybe lift it an inch or so). With the chains loose, slip the triangular bracket on the bottom shank and pin it with the pin. At this point either raise the trailer a bit higher with the jack and then tension the chains with the large socket provided (you supply the 1/2" wrench), or just tighten the chains without raising the trailer with the jack. Done.

To unhitch: Raise the trailer slightly with the jack. Loosen the chains with the wrench. Unpin the triangular plate from the bottom of the ball shank. Unhitch from the ball in your normal way.

It is very fast in practice, once you have done it a few times. Takes maybe 2 minutes.

[HowieE]

Rich of SCal

If you attempt any repair in the middle of your cable that repair has to be WATER tight. Once the insulation of the umbilical cord is opened, whether by a repair or just a crack from time the inner wire will see moisture and corrode through over time.

The reason I had to replace the forward part of my cord was a small crack in the insulation that caused one of the wires to corrode. Wires that fail do to corrosion do not fail as a single event but deteriorate and reduce electrical flow over time. It was my brake wire that was failing giving less braking over time.

You can buy umbilical cords about 7 ft long and splice it in as I did in a water tight box. I soldered the connection in the box. This type of repair gives you future access for inspections

[HowieE]

When hitching and unhitching I raise the TV/Trailer combination enough to allow me to put the triangle plate on or remove it from the bottom of the ball shaft. Doing this means I never have to adjust the tension on the chains by adjusting the nuts on the Acme screws.

Doing this does run the risk of the ball shaft popping up out of the hitch housing, that did happen to me once. After that I drill and place a 5/16 roll pin in the shaft to prevent this.

Using this method it takes about 30 seconds to hitch or unhitch if you have approached the trailer at the same angle you dropped it.

[joelin1]

I have an used Andersen hitch for sell since I switched to ProPride . The Andersen hitch is setup for my 27 FB and toyota tundra . I can sell it for $ 275 plus shipping .

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Rich, Howie has the right idea. If you have a trailer ( big truck type ) parts supplier nearby they have a terminal box you can fasten to your frame. Pull your cable out of the frame and cut it where it's damaged. Strip the insulation and using the color codes in the terminal box connect the wires to one side. When you buy the box also get a few feet of 7 wire cable and connect the appropriate wire to the other side of the terminal in the box. You then need to get a connector to match your tow vehicle and connect that to the other end. If you keep all the colors straight you now have a new cable and plug and are good to go. Not difficult at all. Get some cable clamps while you're at it to secure the cable to the inside of the frame rail ( but now on the outside ). Essentially the same repair Howie has done. The terminal box will give a little more room to work in and coded terminals to make it easier.

Bye the way, got any suggestions I'll be doing this soon and was wondering how to avoid this exact thing happening to me ?????? At least I have a trailer supply house nearby and some 7 wire cable on hand. Just in case.

That sounds good except that then my cable will all be on the outside and more susceptible to the weather than it is inside the frame.

My only suggestion is to drill a very small pilot hole first, stopping as soon as it breaks through. Then use a coat hanger type wire to push the cable away from that side of the frame before you drill a larger hole for the set screw. Maybe you could squirt some liquid foam insulation in the hole and that would push it to the other side. Of course, then you wouldn't be able to see if you nicked it or not, which I was able to do with a small flashlight.

I can't really think of anything else. It's pretty much dumb luck, which I didn't have.

I understand about the waterproofing. I was hoping to use some liquid shrink wrap type stuff to fully encase the 3 exposed wires and then that section of the cable. Otherwise I might just buy a new cable and pull it through the frame. I like how well the frame protects it.

[Tino643]

Thanks to everyone for the info.....

[polarlyse]

Rich, I agree that the frame is a good protector for the cable. On my old trailer the cable was already outside the frame so I kept it that way. With all the terminals in a waterproof enclosure things are very water tight and secure. I never had any problems with 5 years and many miles of towing. Of course if you get a cable with a molded in plug on the end it is always better. But I just didn't want to get into the house to do the wiring. I will try your drill technique recommendation. Thanks for the heads up.

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

I like how well the frame protects it.

The frame can provide protection, but it also hides damage. On our Overlander the wires came through the frame and we had a problem with it getting pinched somewhere around the bottom of the Hensley which caused fuses to blow at random times. Our Sovereign has a detachable cable that plugs into an outlet on the front of the trailer. While this means an additional potential entry point for water, and makes the tongue a little more cluttered, I like the idea that it would be easy to see if the wire were damaged, and easy to repair.

[idroba]

For the heck of it, I decided to measure the chain wear on my Andersen. I have towed about 6,000 to 7,000 miles with it since installed earlier this summer. I was the one who first noted the chain wear which has brought many responses on this thread. Since discovering the wear, at about 3000 miles, I have been using white grease from a spray can to lube the chain tubes and chain. You can see photos of my setup on p34, post #463 of this thread.

Today I took my calipers and measured the wear on the chain at the worst spots. The chain original diameter is .37" + or - a few thousandths. My worst wear spot showed .34", again not trying to be too precise, the measurements could be over stated in precision easily so I chose to keep them to two digits.

The square tube has some wear also. Original thickness .18" and worst wear location at the edge is .13"

I believe the grease I am using has prevented further wear since the original problem was found. I may change some of my setup later, but for now the grease works well for me.

On this last trip of 800 miles over the past weekend I also tried another change. My hitch stinger seemed sloppy in the Jeep receiver. I don't know if it is the Jeep box or the hitch stinger, but I thought I would put a metal shim in it to reduce the movement up and down. I believe it helped, the ride was even more solid, and there was no noise at all in any situation, whereas in the past once in a while there would be some clunking sounds. A few thousands of an inch of movement at the hitch box/stinger can be amplified a lot with any WD system. Again, is it the Jeep or the Andersen, or are all setups sloppy? I don't remember the same problem on my Reese or Draw Tite, but then I towed very little with them and this specific Jeep.

I remain very very satisfied with the Andersen hitch system.

[polarlyse]

There was some earlier discussion in this thread regarding altering the square tube in hopes of easing the wear on the chain. I think it was to slightly round off the edges that abrade the chain. Any thoughts on if that modification may help ease some of the wear you have recorded on your chains ????

[xrvr]

There is a lot of slop in most hitches, a couple of dif devises available to lessen it. Jim

[HowieE]

Well I got a chance to change my hitch set up to reduce the ware produced by the bracket angle. The picture below shows the new installation that angles the bracket towards the chain center line. In this new position it was necessary to drill the brackets and frame and install 2 #8 bolts through the frame to hold the brackets in position against the pull of the tension on the chains.

You will note I dropped the brackets and used the upper upper hole for the top. This meant I had to drill out the set screw hole to accept the larger bolt in the bottom hole. In order to put a 1/2 in #8 bolt in the factory supplied top hole I had to make a bushing to fill between the 1/2 in bolt and the 5/8 hole.

I noted in an earlier post that Andersen has started to ship brackets with the tube angled towards the chain center line in the vertical plane. I have checked with Atwood, the manufacture of almost all trailer couplings, as to the number of A frame angles currently being manufactured. Almost all RV trailer use a coupling with a 50 degree angle. Given the fact that the A frame angle, the chain length, and the angle plate are in a fixed relationship the bracket should be angled outwards a few degrees also. That is not and easy fix in the field but could easily be incorporated in manufacturing. Given that modification the only other variable, on larger Rvs, would be the frame height. Given a downward angle from the factory variations in frame height could be adjusted in the field during installation, by tilting the brackets to achieve alinement, and the use of a second set screw at the top.

As to the question of chamfering the leading edge of the tube to reduce ware that will not eliminate it. The force at that point is too great to be reduced in soft steel.

[Airtandem]

to hitch: hitch with wing and chains attached to TV, attach the trailer . lift trailer with jack and attach chains to trailer. the higher, the more slack to attach chains. tighten chain (I use 6 threads). ;raise jack to travel position.
to unhitch: reverse procedure; jack up, remove chain from trailer, lower jack and release trailer from ball, jack up trailer and move TV. level trailer for storage.
blocking and un blocking wheels for safety.
I was in a 20-30 mph cross wind and with passing trucks, did NOT feel any sway. My speed, 55-60. Have to obey the limits. Sure beat my eq,