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Old 09-09-2012, 10:16 PM   #533
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My Equal-I-Zer has similar frame brackets. If you tighten the upper and lower bolts too much they will bow slightly so that they only make good contact at the edges of the frame. They would slip during use.

I took them off and noticed the bow, so I reversed them and tightened them enough to straighten but not bow in the opposite direction. This preset bow from the first install then served to grip the frame strongly along its full width, and has not slipped in three years use.

Could this be a problem when installing the Andersen frame brackets, and a possible solution?

doug k
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:26 PM   #534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstephens View Post
If people are experiencing the brackets twisting on the frame, it is because the brackets are designed for vertical force, not horizontal. One way to improve this condition is to use a bracket designed for horizontal forces that will not twist over the A-frame. Such a bracket sketch is included here. The main feature is a "stop" on top and bottom that prevents the bracket from twisting on he frame as the chain tension is increased. This also prevents the bracket from sliding forward on the A-frame.

These are very simple parts that can be made quickly by any fabricator.
A few years ago there was a post where someone made similar spacers to keep the bolts on an Equal-I-zer from being overtightened and bowing the brackets, but the spacers prevented tightening the bolts enough for the brackets to grip the frame.

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Old 09-09-2012, 10:41 PM   #535
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
A few years ago there was a post where someone made similar spacers to keep the bolts on an Equal-I-zer from being overtightened and bowing the brackets, but the spacers prevented tightening the bolts enough for the brackets to grip the frame.

doug k
Hi, I don't know if you were referring to my modification, or someone elses. I used 1/2" copper tubing on the top bolt and on the additional third bolt. Copper tubing allows for a little crush. My brackets have not slipped, ever since this was done, many years ago. This may or may not work with the Andersen hitch.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:27 PM   #536
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I consider the Equalizer brackets to be sub-optimal also. But for a different reason than the Anderson. The EQ is ill-fitting, too soft, and suffers crushing from bolt tension. The Anderson suffers by not being designed to be pulled horizontally. The modification I sketched solves both problems, but OF COURSE the dimensions of the "stop" have to be based on correctly measuring the A-frame thickness. There is no "generic size."

Just in general, these sloppy fitting brackets are a generic problem with systems designed for "universal" application. As we used to say, "Universal means - fits nothing correctly." I have seen more bent up and twisted brackets on hitches than good ones. People don't usually want to spend a lot for a hitch, so they get exactly what they pay for.

Any decent sized town or city has a fabricator that can makes these ultra simple parts. This is not bio-chemistry, or brain surgery. It is the most basic and elementary metal fabricating that an apprentice can make. Cut, bend, drill, temper. It doesn't get easier than that.

DISCLAIMER: These are not catastrophic problems, and I am not faulting any manufacturer. And, I have no financial interests in hitches or hitch companies. These are suggestions for people who care to improve their systems and have the time, patience, money and interest to do so. Anyone can have a high performance set of brackets made and purchase improved SAE or ASTM rated hardware. For those who don't care, don't pay any attention to any of this. It's a completely optional pursuit.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:31 PM   #537
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Robertsunrus - -
That's nice looking work there. Did you fab them, or have them done?
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:38 PM   #538
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Robertsunrus - -
That's nice looking work there. Did you fab them, or have them done?
Hi, I just used a tubing cutter on some 1/2" copper tubing that I had in my garage. By using the third bolt with my spacer. you can really torque the second bolt [the one just under the frame] without bowing the brackets. The top bolt spacer will help prevent bowing too. [the brackets are Equal-i-zer factory parts]
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:09 AM   #539
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I have not had any problems with my frame brackets slipping, the photos I posted were the way I installed them. But the chain rubbing inside the square tube is the problem that I think needs to be solved.
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:11 AM   #540
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The "slipping" of the bracket is definitely a problem , particularly if you have a heavy tongue weight to distribute. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the bracket and frame to prevent this. After 5,000 miles I removed them to see if the force pulling on the chains had any effect of the integrity of the bolts. They came out exactly as I installed them, so they are big enough to do the job. I found this to be superior to the set screws provided which slipped .
As to the chain wearing on the square tube, yes, mine have too. I am going to champher the bottom of the tube. I am betting that this will will stop the wear.
I have no experience with PP or Hensley, but this hitch , despite these bracket problems, is superior to the Equalizer in both set up and operation.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:22 AM   #541
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kosm1o, did you drill holes through both sides and put a 3/8" bolt in? My Andersen will be here any day.

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Old 09-10-2012, 08:47 AM   #542
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Do you Anderson hitch users experience any 'push' that is noticeable when being passed by a big rig? I am interested in details such as whether you can feel it or not and, or, do you have to make steering corrections? With my former Hensley and a GMC 2500HD with a Safari 28, there was absolutely no sensation of being passed. I am considering the ProPride but would go with the Anderson if I can be convinced I won't notice this phenomenon. Thanks.
A square box trailer report with 12k plus miles of use:

Woodalls Open Roads Forum: Towing: New Andersen WD hitch
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:06 PM   #543
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Anderson very promptly answered my email inquiry this am. The chains have a working load limit of 2,000 pounds. That, along with your vehicle measurements previously described, will determine exactly the maximum amount of weight that can be transferred from back to front.

They also suggested that heavier chains could be used.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:37 PM   #544
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" . . They also suggested that heavier chains could be used."
That they would provide them?

Assuming someday that someone posts this hitch can do the job per actual numbers on a heavier rig -- as a softly-suspended, but otherwise heavy long-wheelbase TV is not the same "requirement" as a similarly sized & weighted, but more heavily sprung TV -- load transfer RR to FF is a question still in play. Anderson wouldn't be the first (not that some even believe it important), but questions of wear & tear are always relevant if there are limits, and where the limits are.

.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #545
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Received my Andersen hitch this morning. First impression upon opening the box is it's much heavier duty than the pictures/videos would indicate.
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:12 PM   #546
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That they would provide them?

Assuming someday that someone posts this hitch can do the job per actual numbers on a heavier rig -- as a softly-suspended, but otherwise heavy long-wheelbase TV is not the same "requirement" as a similarly sized & weighted, but more heavily sprung TV -- load transfer RR to FF is a question still in play. Anderson wouldn't be the first (not that some even believe it important), but questions of wear & tear are always relevant if there are limits, and where the limits are.

.
True. Well, clearly a long WB vehicle isn't going to be able to shift much weight here. On a thumbnail basis, if you kept your strain to 1500# per chain, you can have a total strain then of 3,000 pounds. If your WB lever ratio is 1:18 you can shift 166 pounds. That may be enough in some cases, and may not be enough in others. I think it points to the idea that the usefulness of the WD feature here is going to depend very much on the vehicle and trailer combo. It may be very appropriate for some combos and not very much for others.

Conventional WD systems don't have that kind of limitation. You can adjust them to dump the weight you want no matter what the wheelbase might be. In other words, they are more "universal" in their application.

That said, heavier chains are cheap and not difficult to imagine here. If you need to shift more weight, get bigger chains, and beef up those brackets to hold say 6,000 pounds of strain.

Something I notice when looking at rigs is that a lot of rigs don't need any WD at all. A guy with a HD 3/4T truck and tow package pulling a Safari 21 probably needs zero WD. In fact, I just saw this rig yesterday. The truck didn't even budge when he dropped the tongue down. He didn't bother with WD. But SUV's are a different story, right?

Speaking hypothetically, if I were the manufacturer of this style hitch, I'd spec it out to offer different chains, just like the other guys offer different bars. Obviously one size does NOT fit all!

I very much appreciated that they provided the info promptly.
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