The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[AWCHIEF]

doug, Using another browser I do see a large number for sale on ebay. Looks like many are requiring a 15% restocking charge now. O'well, times change.

[Rich of SCal]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

I sent an email to Anderson asking about the chain angle and wear issues. I received this back from Andrew:

"Another option would be to purchase the standard 5"–6" outside brackets from us, which would give you a little bit of a drop, and then weld them in place. Cost for a pair of 5"–6" outside brackets would be $69 + $10 shipping.

For a complete set of custom brackets (2 inside, 2 outside) cut to spec length and with holes drilled in the appropriate places – $99.99 + $40 custom set up + $12 shipping.

Please contact us if you need further help or would like to proceed with one of the above bracket options."

My current brackets were made for my 3" frame. If I went to the standard 5"-6" brackets that would give me at least a 2" drop. I think that would just about line up all the moving parts.

Originally Posted by HowieE

They sure as hell did not make any friends there. We advise them of a shortfall in their design and they come back with a solution with that kind of margin tacked to it.

I have someone coming to look at my Andersen Thursday. May not be as enthusiastic as I would have been before that post.

This is why I ask questions here! If I had bought this system earlier I would have gone through the same problems mentioned. Now I know to get bigger brackets and how to have them installed so I can get a "straight shot" with the chain angle and avoid the chain wear issue. Sorry for your hassle, but thanks for the info. It helps a lot.

[polarlyse]

Looks to me as if any good welder could cut the square tube off and re-make those brackets very easily. It would go without needing to be said that the warranty would be voided if we were to do that. But it would solve the problem at a much less cost then they quoted. Has anyone investigated that option ????

Bye-the-way I'm the interested party that went to see Howie's setup. I liked what I saw and am waiting to hear back from Anderson and we'll decide if they will provide one for me or point me to one of their distributers.

[AWCHIEF]

Now if Andersen would admit that it is engineering and design issue and make it right. Really we should not have to pay for new brackets to fix the problem. Hopefully I can talk some reason with Dave when he calls me back and we can get this issue worked out to the satisfaction of all parties. I was one of the first users here on this site and overall have been very pleased with the hitch. Honestly I had not even given the chain wear a thought until it was brought up here. I took a closer look at mine and sure enough I did have some wear. Not near as much as some are reporting but enough to get my attention. I am starting to think that is mostly a potential serious issue with bigger/heavier trailers. My chain wear is so minor that you really have to look for it to see it. Like most businesses that have lawyers it is tough to get them to admit to any problems with the product. I would not be surprised to see some changes made in the brackets with little or no fanfare.

[AWCHIEF]

Just received this from Andersen:

"Thanks for the reply Michael. After talking to our engineers, they said it would actually be just as easy to have your current bracket welded in place rather than go with the longer 5"–6" bracket (which would introduce greater leverage forces on the frame and weld point).


I appreciate your input. We have actually been looking at a change to the bracket design to help with the few installs where the chain becomes seriously angled to the bracket. Currently it only represents a few percent of our sales, but we would like to see if there is something that can be introduced.


If it looks like the angle of your bracket after welding will not allow for the nut to be easily adjusted, let me know.

--Andrew
Customer Service"



I would consider this progress. They are acknowledging that there is an issue and changes are in the works. As a non-engineer the leverage issue actually makes sense to me after thinking about it. I think I am going to go with welding the brackets on. Next step find someone to do the job that will do it for a reasonable price. Does anyone have any idea what I should expect to pay for this kind of work?

[Reganzo]

Originally Posted by HowieE

It looks like his problem may have been not drilling holes for the set screws. There is reference to that a few post removed from the one you posted.

It is interesting that the reactions from both sides seams to be the same on that thread also. Those that question the hitch and those that use the hitch.

I have been following this thread diligently, reading the posts with both the pros and cons of this hitch. It has been both interesting and informative. In June I mangled the Reese hitch with both flat bars, and friction control that came with my 1988 34' Limited. I turned too far trying to get out of a tight spot in a campground, and bent both friction controls and the balls they attached to on the top of the Reese .

I decided to take the leap and purchased the Andersen wd hitch directly from Andersen. My Trailer is 34 feet with a 5" frame and my TV an F-350 short bed diesel, and Andersen told me I needed the 5/6" brackets. I also got the 2/516 ball with the 8" drop. The whole order arrived in a weeks time which was what they promised. My instal was complicated by the fact I have horizontal 40# propane tanks with a closed frame. I was able to cut an opening for the brackets, and I mounted the brackets as the instructions directed. I was able to drill the hole for the set screws on the outside only, and hand tightened the inside set screws no holes. I went for a short tow setting up the hitch with seven threads showing, and found it very smooth. I just returned from a 1500 mile trip, which included some rough roads and hills, and I am extremely impressed with the hitch's performance. I did have to make one adjustment, as at 7 threads I dropped the front of my truck almost 3/4"' but I felt like the front end was too loose while driving. I stopped and tightened the nut until I had 8 threads showing, and then resumed driving. The difference was stunning, the steering felt great , and the ride and control with the trailer was amazing. With the Reese I had a bit of a wag with the trailer, which I assumed was how it was supposed to be, and I towed with it while we full timed for two years, 36 states, 38,00 miles. 1500 miles with Andersen, no wag, smoother ride, level trailer, and better confidence towing, and the brackets are still at the angle I installed them. All in all a winning decision for me. I would recommend this hitch...

Regards,

Reganzo

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Does anyone have any idea what I should expect to pay for this kind of work?

I had my draw bar all prepared, and took it to the welder, but he only charged me $30.

[HowieE]

Reganzo

Please clarify a point. You say you dropped the front axle 3/4 of an in. Was that 3/4 from the loaded no tension on the chains position or 3/4 from the unloaded truck only position?

Generally one measures the front and rear fender heights and marks them on a tape before hitching up. Once hitched and tension is placed on the chains a second measurement is take and that difference on both fenders determines the WD the hitch has applied to the axles.

3/4 of an in is excessive drop on the front axle if the above procedure was followed but not necessarily a representative number if of anything if not.

Your rig I would assume 3/8 to 1/2 in drop would be in line for the front axle. Any more and you are changing the steering angles beyond there design limits.

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by SteveH

I had my draw bar all prepared, and took it to the welder, but he only charged me $30.

Thank you, That sounds reasonable to me. Going camping this weekend. I will see if I can find someone next week to do the weld.
Can you post a picture of your welded brackets?

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Thank you, That sounds reasonable to me. Going camping this weekend. I will see if I can find someone next week to do the weld.
Can you post a picture of your welded brackets?

A picture of what I had welded is in post #661, this thread.

[Reganzo]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Reganzo

Please clarify a point. You say you dropped the front axle 3/4 of an in. Was that 3/4 from the loaded no tension on the chains position or 3/4 from the unloaded truck only position?

Generally one measures the front and rear fender heights and marks them on a tape before hitching up. Once hitched and tension is placed on the chains a second measurement is take and that difference on both fenders determines the WD the hitch has applied to the axles.

3/4 of an in is excessive drop on the front axle if the above procedure was followed but not necessarily a representative number if of anything if not.

Your rig I would assume 3/8 to 1/2 in drop would be in line for the front axle. Any more and you are changing the steering angles beyond there design limits.

Actually, it was a guestimate based on line of sight from the unloaded truck. I will use your method of measuring before and after hitching up to see what it is and post the results. Thanks for your input....

Regards,

Reganzo

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by SteveH

A picture of what I had welded is in post #661, this thread.

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought it was your brackets that you welded to the frame.

[SteveH]

Yes, I thought you had. However I did also weld on some "stops" on the frame that the bolts go up against under the frame, and they effectively stop the side brackets from moving. Because they are only stops, they don't prevent the brackets from being removed, and they would be a simple matter to grind off of the tongue. Sorry I don't have pictures of those.

[polarlyse]

Well, I took the plunge and ordered the Anderson 3380 today. Should take about a week then as long as it takes me to get it on. So, we'll see.

Appreciate all the back and forth presented here. I probably would have gone with one of the more traditional WD hitches otherwise.

Thanks all, Keep it up.

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Well, I took the plunge and ordered the Anderson 3380 today. Should take about a week then as long as it takes me to get it on. So, we'll see.

Appreciate all the back and forth presented here. I probably would have gone with one of the more traditional WD hitches otherwise.

Thanks all, Keep it up.

I've not used the hitch with a trailer the size of yours, but the bit that I have used it I like.

Based on the chain wear issues the others have had on this thread, if I were going to use it with a larger Airstream with the lowered coupler most seem to have, I think I would fabricate a means to attach the side brackets so the chains would be in a straight line, or parrallel with the tongue.

[polarlyse]

Thanks Steve, I will keep that in mind. I spoke with Jason ( at Anderson) this morning and with some suggestions from him I will try to make the alignment as straight as I can to minimize the chain wear.

[dkottum]

Finished the bracket install today; tilted brackets toward the chain, drilled and 3/8" bolted top of bracket through frame, drilled to let the lower bracket set screw into the frame part way. Don't see how bracket could move and chains are aligned nicely with bracket tubes.

Installed 4" drawbar, ball/friction assembly, and tightened chains per instructions with 1/4" compression of red urethane, no weight on the ball. Raised jack to let coupler weight onto the ball and red urethane compressed to almost 1/2" total. Truck very close to original attitude using wheel well measurements, and trailer about an inch low in front. (Trailer near empty.) Pretty close but will leave ball/hitch drop-bar as is until trailer loaded, then fine tune as needed, if possible.

Took it out for a spin on curves, rough roads, highway speed. Smoother truck ride than Equal-I-Zer, little or no jostling of trailer, steered perfectly, no noise, no hint of sway, felt and handled like truck without trailer. Backed into driveway, quiet, felt like no assembly there. I really like it and look forward to upcoming long trip in couple of weeks.

doug k

Note: Don't order 8" drop bar unless you have a raised truck, it is 12" high and sits down way to low for average truck, the 4" drop bar is perfect. Also the holes in the 4" bar are drilled closer to the top as they should be for correct placement of ball/friction assembly.

[polarlyse]

Hey Doug. What are you towing with ??? I have a Dodge 3500 at stock height but with 18" wheels that raise it minimally. Anderson advised the 8" rise and that's what I ordered. I have a double receiver hitch and use the lower one to tow with. It's a mega-hitch and it gets reinforcement from being attached to the factory hitch. The top edge of the receiver is 19" from the ground and that's what I use for the ball height. Gives me a nice level tow. I was thinking about that at the time of the order so we'll need to see when it gets here.

Thanks for the advice

[dkottum]

Roger, I have a 2006 Tundra 4x4 double cab 4.7, light on power 5% of towing but 95% a trouble-free nice ride. I believe it is 18" to top of receiver, the 8" drop bar (12" actual height) looked like a one-furrow plow hanging down there.

You have it on the way so see how it looks. I called Dave Andersen and he exchanged mine after I got it. You can send back the long drop bar and when they get it will send out a short one, you may pay shipping. Or give them credit card over phone and they will send it right away and refund you when they get long drop bar back from you. Fair enough.

Will mention again the holes in the short drop bar are drilled nearer the top than the long bar, so in the mid-range of adjustment the shorter 4" drop bar allow better ball height.

I have only hooked this up once, but I think it is important to follow instructions and keep the weight off the ball until you have snugged the chains to 1/4" compression of the urethane bushing. Then raise the jack and let the weight onto the ball; you should be close to level on trailer and truck. From my very limited experience, I would not try to tighten the chains a lot with the weight on the ball. Use trailer jack to lift it, adjust, then let it back down.

doug k

[purman]

Good to here people are having good experiences. I still need to weld my bracket into place, but I just got the AS back from having the broken door frame fixed. I towed it 30 miles with no movement of the bracket, and the chain seemed to ride quite now it is almost in a straight line..

Good luck all. I will post some pics when I get around to welding it. Leaving for ZION NP in 3 weeks so It will get a work out in the new position..