The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[dkottum]

Our Equal-I-Zer brackets would not stay put either, various mods have been made to keep them in place by users. That is the problem with any type of universal bracket that is not bolted through or welded to the frame.

It looks like the operation of the Andersen hitch is intended to have a near direct path into the bracket tubes. Like so many of these universal mounts, some users will have to bolt or weld them to the frame to ensure proper and reliable operation.

I think the best solution here is as near as the welding shop. Bolt them on through the upper holes to keep the bracket low and in line with the chains, add the lower bolt either by drilling out the set screw holes or in the lower original position, and weld the outer bracket to the frame.

doug k

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, and while they are at it, dropping the brackets and/or angling the tubes downward, They also should twist the tubes outward too. [let's get this straight]

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

They also should twist the tubes outward too. [let's get this straight]

Another variable in the equation. While the plate to frame relationship is constant once installed not all Frame angles are the same. Thus the position of the tube to the bracket will have to be set at a happy medium.

A means of getting the first pivot point on the chain forward of the leading edge of the tube is one possibilities. This would require using a sliding block within the tube as the means to keep the Acme screw from rotating while tightening. The chain would then be welded to that block forward of the face of the tube. All movement within the tube would be flat surfaces against on another reducing the force per contact area. Light oil or grease within the tube would go a long way.

[Andrew T]

I thought I should follow up here.

I did purchase an Anderson hitch to try out. We decided to connect it to middle of the road combination. A 25' International and our workhorse 2007 Dodge Charger. The Charger has been modified somewhat, it has the rear springs from the Magnum station wagon and air bags. (We often tow some pretty heavy box trailers with this car.) The rear suspension is firmer than most 1/2 ton pick ups and suv's. The wheel base is 120" with a moderate overhang so not the shortest vehicle to transfer weight on but easier than a suburban or pick-up.

When we connect a 25 to this car with a Hensley or Eaz-Lift system the car is pushed down 3/4" at the front and rear. So it sits exactly on the same level as it does without the trailer.

When we set up the Anderson we could not get adequate weight transfer. We got to the point where we had the jack as high as it would go and even put bolts in the chains to take up the residual slack then we tightened the nuts until the aluminum socket appear ready to break. Then we lowered the jack to further tension the cushions. In the picture you can see the cushions were substantially squashed but the best we could do was to have the car down 3.25" at the rear and up 1/2" at the front. We did drill the brackets into the frame so they would not slide.

It is not all bad news however, considering how little weight transfer occurred the straight line handling was still reasonably good. It did not handle nearly was well as a properly set up Eaz-Lift but much better than an Eaz-Lift set up with so little weight transfer. I would conclude that the sway control is very effective. As others have said it is light to carry and would be easier for some that are physically challenged to connect. In an evasive maneuver you can feel more weight transfer side to side and further lightening of the front wheels because the hitch has no rearward angle but that could be corrected by re-welding the shank assembly to provide it.

One concern would be winter use since you are lighting the steering axle but not decreasing the sway control you might find yourself going straight when you were hoping to turn.

All in all I can see it being useable on a short wheelbase, short overhang tow vehicle towing a trailer with a lighter hitch weight.

Andrew

[idroba]

Originally Posted by Andrew T

I thought I should follow up here.

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I did purchase an Anderson hitch to try out.

(Snip)
All in all I can see it being useable on a short wheelbase, short overhang tow vehicle towing a trailer with a lighter hitch weight.

Andrew

Andrew: I am glad you have given the Andersen a try. I have a shorter wheelbase 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee and a 20' Argosy trailer. Trailer weight is 4200# and hitch weight is 700#. I can only report that I have no problems at all getting weight transfer onto the front of the Jeep and I am at a loss to see why you are having problems. Your bushings are compressed more than any I have seen shown here on this thread.

I find my setup to be very stable, and easy to drive for the past 4000 miles or so of towing. It feels better to me than my Draw Tight round bar system or my Reese square bar system.

All other reports here on this thread (admittedly by those who have tried and liked the Andersen) are positive. No one has had weight transfer issues.

So, I guess we have a mystery here. It will be good to see how it plays out.

[HowieE]

I am about to leave for the week end but I have to say you did something wrong. Please go back and read the instructions.

I move the front of my Excursion down 3/8 of an in. with almost no noticeable compression on the bushing. My truck is sprung much heaver than your car.

Hopefully someone will chime in before you drive anywhere.

[Andrew T]

I can see the Jeep and Minuete possibly working for the life of me I can't see how you can be transfering enough weight on the Excursion as it is a very long vehicle.

There really is no other variable we are getting that much compression on the bushings the load has to be on them. When we set it up according to the writen instructions the weight transfer was less, we were down about 4.5". That was why we raised the jack and took up any slack in the system.

Basically the weight distribution system is a lever you use to pry weight forward. If you want complete weight transfer then I think this is just too small a lever for the job at hand.

[AWCHIEF]

Andrew:

Interesting in how you findings are so different from the majority of the posters here and on other forums. I don't really know what to make of it. Using my Andersen and 2012 F150 Screw Ecoboost I have no problem at all getting the truck back to level. My bushing compresses approx. 1/4 inch with 7 threads showing. I have seen dozens of pictures of the bushing compressed and none look anything like yours shows. Something is definetly not right with your set up in my opinion.
How about trying the Andersen on a more conventionl TV and let us know what you find.

[purman]

Originally Posted by Andrew T

I thought I should follow up here.

I did purchase an Anderson hitch to try out. We decided to connect it to middle of the road combination. A 25' International and our workhorse 2007 Dodge Charger. The Charger has been modified somewhat, it has the rear springs from the Magnum station wagon and air bags. (We often tow some pretty heavy box trailers with this car.) The rear suspension is firmer than most 1/2 ton pick ups and suv's. The wheel base is 120" with a moderate overhang so not the shortest vehicle to transfer weight on but easier than a suburban or pick-up.

When we connect a 25 to this car with a Hensley or Eaz-Lift system the car is pushed down 3/4" at the front and rear. So it sits exactly on the same level as it does without the trailer.

When we set up the Anderson we could not get adequate weight transfer. We got to the point where we had the jack as high as it would go and even put bolts in the chains to take up the residual slack then we tightened the nuts until the aluminum socket appear ready to break. Then we lowered the jack to further tension the cushions. In the picture you can see the cushions were substantially squashed but the best we could do was to have the car down 3.25" at the rear and up 1/2" at the front. We did drill the brackets into the frame so they would not slide.

It is not all bad news however, considering how little weight transfer occurred the straight line handling was still reasonably good. It did not handle nearly was well as a properly set up Eaz-Lift but much better than an Eaz-Lift set up with so little weight transfer. I would conclude that the sway control is very effective. As others have said it is light to carry and would be easier for some that are physically challenged to connect. In an evasive maneuver you can feel more weight transfer side to side and further lightening of the front wheels because the hitch has no rearward angle but that could be corrected by re-welding the shank assembly to provide it.

One concern would be winter use since you are lighting the steering axle but not decreasing the sway control you might find yourself going straight when you were hoping to turn.

All in all I can see it being useable on a short wheelbase, short overhang tow vehicle towing a trailer with a lighter hitch weight.

Andrew

You only have 5 threads showing and that much compression on the bushing??? you defiantly have something set up wrong. Go back and read the directions. 2 threads should be showing before you start tightening the nut.

There have been people with small SUV like bmw have so much weight transferred to the front it got hard to steer. Somewhere something is wrong..

I can watch the rear come up and front go down on my Sequoia when I tighten mine, and my bushing is nowhere close to your compression..

[idroba]

Originally Posted by Andrew T

I can see the Jeep and Minuete possibly working for the life of me I can't see how you can be transfering enough weight on the Excursion as it is a very long vehicle.

(Snip)

BTW, mine is a full size Argosy, not a Minuet, 4200#, 700# tongue weight (by actual scale measurements).

I guess we are back to the bumblebee not flying. Some of us have seen him fly, but this is the first report of him actually not flying, by observation. Like others have said, something is screwy here. Is the bumblebee on some kind of a strange drug? I take a neutral stance here, on Andrew's observations. I know mine are different, and my hitch works fine. I just don't know why you have different results.

[AirHeadsRus]

Andrew T.
Check the chains to make sure they are not twisted. Even 1/2 a turn will cause the chains to bind. I know, I have seen me do it. If they bind you will not have weight distribution no matter how tight and compressed the bushing is.
Hope that helps,
Joe

[HowieE]

Now that the weekend is over and having looked back at Andy's post I would think the only way you could compress the bushing that much were id the Acme screw was jammed inside the bracket and not putting any additional tension on the chains as the nut is tightened.

The is no way that with that much tension on the bushing you would not see the rear of the TV lift above the unloaded height.

I would ask those interested to go back in the thread and read Andy's early comments about the Andersen. Sometime conclusions are reached before the experiment begins.

[AWCHIEF]

I was thinking air tools operated by a shop gorilla to get that much compression. Seems almost to me like the test (?) was designed to fail from the outset. Just too many inconsistencies from all other users to not make me suspect the review or to respect the outcome. If that is offensive to anyone it is my opinion based on almost 5000 miles of real world use of the Andersen WD system with a common TV and trailer combination. Prior to buying, installing and using the Anderson I had never used a WD system of any kind, so I had no preconceived notions of the outcome compared to other WD systems. The proof in its performance is very evident to me simply by measuring the before and after heights of the front and rear and by its feel on the road compared to not using any WD system.

[Wayne&Sam]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Prior to buying, installing and using the Anderson I had never used a WD system of any kind, so I had no preconceived notions of the outcome compared to other WD systems.

Therefore you wouldn't know what to expect from a WD system and how the others might handle, no?

I don't have any pro or con position on this thread- I'm just observing.

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by HowieE

Now that the weekend is over and having looked back at Andy's post I would think the only way you could compress the bushing that much were id the Acme screw was jammed inside the bracket and not putting any additional tension on the chains as the nut is tightened.
The is no way that with that much tension on the bushing you would not see the rear of the TV lift above the unloaded height.

You could have stopped there and had a constructive suggestion. I don't understand why you felt it necessary to include a personal comment on Andy's ability to set up a new hitch properly. He may have made an error, or there may be something different about the vehicle/trailer combination that's causing the unusual results. Why should people take the time to contribute their ideas if they can't count on them being commented on respectfully?

Originally Posted by HowieE

I would ask those interested to go back in the thread and read Andy's early comments about the Andersen. Sometime conclusions are reached before the experiment begins.

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

I was thinking air tools operated by a shop gorilla to get that much compression. Seems almost to me like the test (?) was designed to fail from the outset. Just too many inconsistencies from all other users to not make me suspect the review or to respect the outcome.

Let's assume positive intent and ask respectful questions so this thread can continue to provide us with useful information.

I've been enjoying this thread and the comments from those who are using the hitch, those who are attempting to explain how it works and those who have suggestions for improvement. That's what this thread should be about, not questioning the motives or abilities of those who take time to contribute.

Thanks,
Grant

[AWCHIEF]

Wayne&Sam and Grant, as I said it was my opinion and my opinion only and I stand by my statement. You are both certainly allowed to have and post yours. It is no secret that sometimes people have ulterior motives for posting the things they do.

[Kosm1o]

Andy, if your still interested in this thread, I do think something is wrong with your set up somewhere. we users are getting good weight distribution, and the charts and graphs show it. None has shown anywhere near the compression you have. Your pix don't show the set up, only the compression.
Can you get a photo of the whole set up?

[purman]

Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander

You could have stopped there and had a constructive suggestion. I don't understand why you felt it necessary to include a personal comment on Andy's ability to set up a new hitch properly. He may have made an error, or there may be something different about the vehicle/trailer combination that's causing the unusual results. Why should people take the time to contribute their ideas if they can't count on them being commented on respectfully?




Let's assume positive intent and ask respectful questions so this thread can continue to provide us with useful information.

I've been enjoying this thread and the comments from those who are using the hitch, those who are attempting to explain how it works and those who have suggestions for improvement. That's what this thread should be about, not questioning the motives or abilities of those who take time to contribute.

Thanks,
Grant

Other forum threads have been close by people making false statements that also post here. Not Andy, But stuff does happen. I must say, tightening the bushing by hand that far takes a lot of strength. first had experience. I don't think i could get it to compress that far with out a 3' helper bar on the socket, maybe. Just my opinion.. That much compression, with so little threads showing. IT'S NOT SET UP AS PER THE DIRECTIONS.

[3Ms75Argosy]

I've been popping on from time to time to watch this thread... short of the Jeep and Argosy, I haven't really seen any of the poster's set ups? Purman and Howee... can you show yours? I too have a Sequoia, with a 26' Argosy. I know I really have to crank the bars (750#) on my Eaz Lift to get my front end down (the rear is REALLY soft on this truck). I'd love to see the Anderson on a similar set up. My hitch head is worn a bit, and I'm starting to loose the bar in turns (not a fun idea!).... so a hitch is in my future. I really like the idea of this hitch, but just would love to see it on a setup like mine first.

My 2 cents with Andy.. I think he's got a LOT of experience setting up hitches... to make a pun.. lighten up on the guy! I think it says a lot for him to invest in a hitch to try it out. Maybe it wasn't set up right (hard to imagine what could be wrong in such a simple set up), but jeez.. could you ask for pics before you attack him?

On edit... isn't there two different weight hitches sold by Anderson? Perhaps the cushions got swapped out somehow on the one sold to Andy? Maybe a pic of the cushion unloaded and loaded might be helpful.. and one from the side of the set up? If the saddles are straight down, would that make a difference? If they were drilled through the frame straight down (like has been discussed in this thread), would that "straight" angle decrease the pull vs the saddles being pulled forward (like shown in the one pic of the Jeep) in those not bolted straight down? Just an idea.

Anyway, I've found this thread informative! Thanks in the future for possible pics of the setups.

Marc

[idroba]

No, there is one hitch only, good for 14,000 # and a tongue weight of 1400#. My Jeep/Argosy combination you saw has a 700# tongue weight and it can be moved easily to the front with a very small compression of the bushings. I do need to get it on a scale to see just how much I transfer and post the numbers. Too busy trailering right now.

BTW, I was the one who noted the chain wear issue, and posted it. Others here have confirmed they too have found the problem so we do know that Andersen has some things to work out in the future versions. I still will say it is a great towing hitch and would buy another one in a minute if someone stole the one I have now

I also respect Andrew and am at a loss to understand why his experience and bushing compression are so far from what every other user here has found.

I follow the thread closely and will be interested to see how it plays out. But I don't intend to go back to my Reese or Draw Tight hitches.