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Old 09-05-2012, 10:21 AM   #379
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I meant to say with the Equalizer as well.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:46 AM   #380
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Originally Posted by Kosm1o View Post
I only raise the tongue to facilitate loosening or tightening the chains. Once loose, the nuts can be unscrewed by hand quickly. Then I lower the jack and when it is at the point of being loose on the ball and the chains still loose, I unlock the ball and then raise it and drive the TV forward. The procedure takes a little practice to get things in the proper order but the important thing is that there be no tension on anything when unlocking or unhooking anything. I would think that principle goes for any hitch design, not just Andersen. BTW, I really like the hitch after three trips and 5,000 miles towing with it. I will post a more thorough review in a week or so.
I understand the concept of raising the hitch (on any WD hitch) to take load off the chain, bars, whatever... I am totally not understanding why anyone would do this without the triangle plate on??? What you seem to be describing is lifting with the plate attached, to loosen the chains. But removing the chains. The 'disaster' method seems to be leaving the chains on, and lifting until you can slide the plate on...

???
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:54 AM   #381
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With a tongue weight of 875#, it not that easy to tighten the nuts to get weight dist as I need. Jacking up a little makes it easier.
I can understand that. Mine is a little more than 1/2 of yours..
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:56 AM   #382
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Originally Posted by Friday View Post
I understand the concept of raising the hitch (on any WD hitch) to take load off the chain, bars, whatever... I am totally not understanding why anyone would do this without the triangle plate on??? What you seem to be describing is lifting with the plate attached, to loosen the chains. But removing the chains. The 'disaster' method seems to be leaving the chains on, and lifting until you can slide the plate on...

???
Thats correct. lifting without the plate on the bottom will result in the ball coming out of the hitch, EVENTUALLY..
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:09 AM   #383
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I agree. Without the plate and ring assembly , the ball is going to come apart sooner or later.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:15 PM   #384
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Originally Posted by Kosm1o View Post
With a tongue weight of 875#, it not that easy to tighten the nuts to get weight dist as I need. Jacking up a little makes it easier.
Jacking it up a little to make it easier to tighten the big nuts AFTER you get the triangular plate attached and pinned in place is fine, the ball will not come out of the tapered shaft then. But, jacking it up prior to attaching the plate, without the pin in place is the problem.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:26 PM   #385
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That is what I meant. In every case if there is weight or tension anywhere on the system, you need to stop and figure out what is left to do, because something isn't right.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:36 PM   #386
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The safety and functional aspects of this issue can easily be resolved by pressing in a 5/16 roll pin through the lower end of the ball shaft just below the body of the hitch that extends beyond the diameter of the collar on the triangle plate and cutting slot in the triangle plate to accept this pin. This would preclude the shaft from ever coming out while being proper use or misuse of the jack. This roll pin would be placed at right angles to the removable pin that holds the plate.

As one that pays particular attention to the adjustment of my WD hitch I do not like the idea of constantly arbitrarily resetting the load on the nuts. A portion of one thread distance can markably change to load placed on the steering axle. A factor that I consider very important for overall control.

Yes I made a mistake in my operation of the hitch but those that have read my posts over time probably realize I look for ways to improve things I find inadequate in design.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:46 PM   #387
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I have been reading this Anderson thread with both interest and curiosity and have a question. I get the principles in place here, for the most part. One thing I have missed is the case of hooking / un-hooking at an angle to the trailer. If the TV is not in straight alignment to the trailer is there any difficulty in attaching the triangle plate to the bottom of the ball shaft ???? I'm trying to understand the rotational forces and the plate attachments.

I need to replace the WD bars for my hitch and would consider replacing the hitch with the Anderson instead. From looking at the Anderson website I need to measure the frame rails on my '01 Excella and double check the ball height on my current hitch. I like the level at which it tows and don't want to see that changed. I sent them a message over the weekend and have not heard back yet. So we'll see.

Thanks all, Great discussion here. See ya on the road sometime.
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Old 09-05-2012, 01:11 PM   #388
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If you come in at an angle to the coupler and you un hitched in a straight line you may have to rotate the ball in the socket so the pin in the bottom is parallel to the front of the trailer. That will allow the triangular plate to attach properly. It is a bit hard to explain until you see how the hitch sets up and works, but once you do it, you will find that there is no real issue with a setup where the TV comes in at an angle. You just twist the ball in the tapered shaft friction material prior to hitchup. This might take a few taps with a hammer if the ball shaft is firmly seated in the taper. I have only had to do it once and don't recall it was much of an issue. Others may be able to state the method more clearly than I seem to be able to do today...lol.
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Old 09-05-2012, 01:19 PM   #389
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
I have been reading this Anderson thread with both interest and curiosity and have a question. I get the principles in place here, for the most part. One thing I have missed is the case of hooking / un-hooking at an angle to the trailer. If the TV is not in straight alignment to the trailer is there any difficulty in attaching the triangle plate to the bottom of the ball shaft ???? I'm trying to understand the rotational forces and the plate attachments.

Thanks all, Great discussion here. See ya on the road sometime.
The nice thing is, it doesn't matter if it is at an angle. Reason is the whole thing moves as one unit chains and ball.

So when at an angle there is no more pressure on one chain that the other. So you can hook it up and unhook it at an angle if you like. you can adjust the angle if you pop the ball shaft out of the brake sleeve, but this is a pain to do as it takes a few good hits with a mallet.
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Old 09-05-2012, 01:22 PM   #390
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I have had to do this a couple of times. Easy fix, I just stick a long screw driver thru the hole at the bottom of the shaft and twist it straight. If you don't do this you can still hook up, you will need to put more slack in the chains, it is just easier with all the parts lined up straight. It really is a very easy system to use once you have done it once or twice. It is easier to use than it is to explain. The engineering is just so radical compared to other WD systems that it boggles some minds, including mine.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:34 PM   #391
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Let me clarify my post on an angle hookup. It the angle you hook up is close to the angle you unhooked up from, there is no adjustment needed of the ball. It is only if you unhook at a significantly different angle than you hook up at that you need to make any changes.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:39 PM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE
The safety and functional aspects of this issue can easily be resolved by pressing in a 5/16 roll pin through the lower end of the ball shaft just below the body of the hitch that extends beyond the diameter of the collar on the triangle plate and cutting slot in the triangle plate to accept this pin. This would preclude the shaft from ever coming out while being proper use or misuse of the jack. This roll pin would be placed at right angles to the removable pin that holds the plate.

As one that pays particular attention to the adjustment of my WD hitch I do not like the idea of constantly arbitrarily resetting the load on the nuts. A portion of one thread distance can markably change to load placed on the steering axle. A factor that I consider very important for overall control.

Yes I made a mistake in my operation of the hitch but those that have read my posts over time probably realize I look for ways to improve things I find inadequate in design.
Indeed , I think a failsafe method like that would prevent an accident. Eventually, what you experienced will happen to another.
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