The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[purman]

Originally Posted by Kosm1o

With a tongue weight of 875#, it not that easy to tighten the nuts to get weight dist as I need. Jacking up a little makes it easier.

I can understand that. Mine is a little more than 1/2 of yours..

[purman]

Originally Posted by Friday

I understand the concept of raising the hitch (on any WD hitch) to take load off the chain, bars, whatever... I am totally not understanding why anyone would do this without the triangle plate on??? What you seem to be describing is lifting with the plate attached, to loosen the chains. But removing the chains. The 'disaster' method seems to be leaving the chains on, and lifting until you can slide the plate on...

???

Thats correct. lifting without the plate on the bottom will result in the ball coming out of the hitch, EVENTUALLY..

[Kosm1o]

I agree. Without the plate and ring assembly , the ball is going to come apart sooner or later.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by Kosm1o

With a tongue weight of 875#, it not that easy to tighten the nuts to get weight dist as I need. Jacking up a little makes it easier.

Jacking it up a little to make it easier to tighten the big nuts AFTER you get the triangular plate attached and pinned in place is fine, the ball will not come out of the tapered shaft then. But, jacking it up prior to attaching the plate, without the pin in place is the problem.

[Kosm1o]

That is what I meant. In every case if there is weight or tension anywhere on the system, you need to stop and figure out what is left to do, because something isn't right.

[HowieE]

The safety and functional aspects of this issue can easily be resolved by pressing in a 5/16 roll pin through the lower end of the ball shaft just below the body of the hitch that extends beyond the diameter of the collar on the triangle plate and cutting slot in the triangle plate to accept this pin. This would preclude the shaft from ever coming out while being proper use or misuse of the jack. This roll pin would be placed at right angles to the removable pin that holds the plate.

As one that pays particular attention to the adjustment of my WD hitch I do not like the idea of constantly arbitrarily resetting the load on the nuts. A portion of one thread distance can markably change to load placed on the steering axle. A factor that I consider very important for overall control.

Yes I made a mistake in my operation of the hitch but those that have read my posts over time probably realize I look for ways to improve things I find inadequate in design.

[polarlyse]

I have been reading this Anderson thread with both interest and curiosity and have a question. I get the principles in place here, for the most part. One thing I have missed is the case of hooking / un-hooking at an angle to the trailer. If the TV is not in straight alignment to the trailer is there any difficulty in attaching the triangle plate to the bottom of the ball shaft ???? I'm trying to understand the rotational forces and the plate attachments.

I need to replace the WD bars for my hitch and would consider replacing the hitch with the Anderson instead. From looking at the Anderson website I need to measure the frame rails on my '01 Excella and double check the ball height on my current hitch. I like the level at which it tows and don't want to see that changed. I sent them a message over the weekend and have not heard back yet. So we'll see.

Thanks all, Great discussion here. See ya on the road sometime.

[idroba]

If you come in at an angle to the coupler and you un hitched in a straight line you may have to rotate the ball in the socket so the pin in the bottom is parallel to the front of the trailer. That will allow the triangular plate to attach properly. It is a bit hard to explain until you see how the hitch sets up and works, but once you do it, you will find that there is no real issue with a setup where the TV comes in at an angle. You just twist the ball in the tapered shaft friction material prior to hitchup. This might take a few taps with a hammer if the ball shaft is firmly seated in the taper. I have only had to do it once and don't recall it was much of an issue. Others may be able to state the method more clearly than I seem to be able to do today...lol.

[purman]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

I have been reading this Anderson thread with both interest and curiosity and have a question. I get the principles in place here, for the most part. One thing I have missed is the case of hooking / un-hooking at an angle to the trailer. If the TV is not in straight alignment to the trailer is there any difficulty in attaching the triangle plate to the bottom of the ball shaft ???? I'm trying to understand the rotational forces and the plate attachments.

Thanks all, Great discussion here. See ya on the road sometime.

The nice thing is, it doesn't matter if it is at an angle. Reason is the whole thing moves as one unit chains and ball.

So when at an angle there is no more pressure on one chain that the other. So you can hook it up and unhook it at an angle if you like. you can adjust the angle if you pop the ball shaft out of the brake sleeve, but this is a pain to do as it takes a few good hits with a mallet.

[AWCHIEF]

I have had to do this a couple of times. Easy fix, I just stick a long screw driver thru the hole at the bottom of the shaft and twist it straight. If you don't do this you can still hook up, you will need to put more slack in the chains, it is just easier with all the parts lined up straight. It really is a very easy system to use once you have done it once or twice. It is easier to use than it is to explain. The engineering is just so radical compared to other WD systems that it boggles some minds, including mine.

[idroba]

Let me clarify my post on an angle hookup. It the angle you hook up is close to the angle you unhooked up from, there is no adjustment needed of the ball. It is only if you unhook at a significantly different angle than you hook up at that you need to make any changes.

[Kosm1o]

Originally Posted by HowieE

The safety and functional aspects of this issue can easily be resolved by pressing in a 5/16 roll pin through the lower end of the ball shaft just below the body of the hitch that extends beyond the diameter of the collar on the triangle plate and cutting slot in the triangle plate to accept this pin. This would preclude the shaft from ever coming out while being proper use or misuse of the jack. This roll pin would be placed at right angles to the removable pin that holds the plate.

As one that pays particular attention to the adjustment of my WD hitch I do not like the idea of constantly arbitrarily resetting the load on the nuts. A portion of one thread distance can markably change to load placed on the steering axle. A factor that I consider very important for overall control.

Yes I made a mistake in my operation of the hitch but those that have read my posts over time probably realize I look for ways to improve things I find inadequate in design.

Indeed , I think a failsafe method like that would prevent an accident. Eventually, what you experienced will happen to another.

[purman]

Originally Posted by idroba

Let me clarify my post on an angle hookup. It the angle you hook up is close to the angle you unhooked up from, there is no adjustment needed of the ball. It is only if you unhook at a significantly different angle than you hook up at that you need to make any changes.

YES, this is what I was trying to say too..

[polarlyse]

OK, I think I may have got it finally. After you lower the trailer onto the ball can you still rotate the ball shaft from below ( using the screwdriver method) in order to bring the shaft into alignment with the plate ????? Or would this rotation need to be done before the tongue weight is applied ????

[idroba]

Polarlyse:

It would be easiest if it were done with very little tongue weight as the tongue weight engages the sway friction material. So, drop the coupler on the ball, use the jack to hold the tongue weight off the ball, rotate it so the plate holes and ball holes lines up. Alternatively, adjust the ball pin location prior to coupling up. It only needs to be close to parallel to the trailer front, not perfect. The chains will do the final positioning.

[SLNugget]

I have not read every post in this thread so maybe i missed the answer to my question. Sorry if I did.

With the Andersen hitch it appears to me all of the weight transfer/equalizing forces are passed directly through the ball on the tv and the coupler on the AS. Is this correct? And if so, is anyone worried about the age and strength of the couplers on some of the older ASs? The chains and adjustment feature just facilitate the adjustability of the system. Right? I am not knocking the system, but just trying to understand how it works. Thanks,

Stan

[polarlyse]

OK, I got it. I think. Thanks for clearing this up for me. I'm still interested but they haven't gotten back to me yet.

[purman]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

OK, I think I may have got it finally. After you lower the trailer onto the ball can you still rotate the ball shaft from below ( using the screwdriver method) in order to bring the shaft into alignment with the plate ????? Or would this rotation need to be done before the tongue weight is applied ????

I would do it before, as the more weight the greater the resistance... But this would only need to be done if your hook up angle is different than you take of angle, and even then you can loosen the chains a little and still get it hooked up without straightening it out..

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by SLNugget

I have not read every post in this thread so maybe i missed the answer to my question. Sorry if I did.

With the Andersen hitch it appears to me all of the weight transfer/equalizing forces are passed directly through the ball on the tv and the coupler on the AS. Is this correct? And if so, is anyone worried about the age and strength of the couplers on some of the older ASs? The chains and adjustment feature just facilitate the adjustability of the system. Right? I am not knocking the system, but just trying to understand how it works. Thanks,

Stan

Since there is NO movement on the ball or coupling they will NEVER ware out. Yes there is a force applied at the ball coupling interface but that is a static force well below that which would cause any concern.

The chains pull the ball against the rear of the coupling while appling the force to the shank of the hitch which in turns reduces the load on the rear axle and increasing the load on the font axle.

So far the only point of ware I can see is the brake lining material in the hitch and Andersen has stated that is covered under warranty.

[CDONA]

Going to be in the WD market,
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