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Old 06-06-2012, 09:19 AM   #15
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What happens in time, as the ball sleeve wears. When would it have to be replaced, since you cannot see it?

What happens if the chains are not tightened exactly the same?

People are people, and adjusing the chains is necessary everytime a hook up is made, as I understand it.

Also, they suggest 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch rise for the ball than the coupler height.
That will not level out the system because of the rigidity of todays tow vehicle suspension.

That dimensional difference is going to make either the trailer or tow vehicle to not to be level, or perhaps even both. In either case, not good.

But, it does appear to be simple and effective, [b]IF]/b] installed and adjusted properly.

The video instructions need some fine tuning.

Andy
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:22 AM   #16
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One question on this new hitch.

The brackets that mount on the frame of the trailer look like there would be a lot of lateral force on them. On a "conventional" WD hitch it is a downward force. How do the brackets attach and is there a possibility that they might slide forward?
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:33 AM   #17
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No experience here, but I have read on other forums there is a set screw in the side brackets that is supposed to prevent them from sliding, however some have had to weld the brackets to the tongue to prevent it from happening.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:49 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
One question on this new hitch.

The brackets that mount on the frame of the trailer look like there would be a lot of lateral force on them. On a "conventional" WD hitch it is a downward force. How do the brackets attach and is there a possibility that they might slide forward?
Yes the forces on the frame are different than what we are used to. The instructions say mount the brackets vertical and set the set screw to hold them in place. Because of the slop in the frame to bracket bolts I suggest tilting the brackets rearward at the top till the rest against the frame top and bottom. insert the set screw and dimple the frame. Now remove the brackets and drill the hole for the set screw. Reinstall and set the screw. This will completely remove any possible movement of the bracket while under load.
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
What happens in time, as the ball sleeve wears. When would it have to be replaced, since you cannot see it?

The shank is removable and the liner replaceable under warranty

What happens if the chains are not tightened exactly the same?

They do not have to be equal because the difference will be made up in the plate attached to the bottom of the ball shaft. If drastically out it could cause a slight effect in the steering and cause the TV to pull to one side. A slight difference has no effect on the WD aspects of the hitch as the force is the total of the chains and while applied at the center, unlike the others, it will not have a torquing effect on the TV.

People are people, and adjusing the chains is necessary everytime a hook up is made, as I understand it.

My experience is I can hook up without any adjustments simply by raising the combination to a point that I can place the plate on the shaft without changing the nuts.

Also, they suggest 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch rise for the ball than the coupler height.
That will not level out the system because of the rigidity of todays tow vehicle suspension.

This is one of the points I have questioned to the manufacture. They are not familiar with the fact that an Airstream suspension requires that the trailer ride parallel to the ground. A simple fact that we can deal with.

But, it does appear to be simple and effective, [b]IF]/b] installed and adjusted properly.

The video instructions need some fine tuning.

Andy
My biggest fear at this point is that some competitor will buy the company and stop manufacturing as has been done with other superior products like the Jordan Brake Controller
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:19 AM   #20
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I did see there trailer sway little bit

I think for small trailers this might be nice product. Just towed in 70mph winds with equalizer hitch 4way and wow trailer is straight behind tow vehicle. I think Anderson is better suited for bambis, solid 600 bars of EQ lock that load down.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:34 AM   #21
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I been thinking about a new WD hitch, but they are all the same or even more complicated than the basic sway control a bar and chain system I have.

But this looks very nice. And any wear issue would take years and years. It's not like you swaying back and forth across the road all day. And I also like the no grease deal. I'm very interested.
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:52 AM   #22
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I think Anderson is better suited for bambis, solid 600 bars of EQ lock that load down.
But HowieE, the author of this thread, pulls a 34' Excella with great results using the Andersen. Your comment doesn't compute.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:01 AM   #23
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Your response pretty much covers his concerns. Andersen Corp. has been around for many years with some outstanding tow related products. Just recently branching out to WD hitches. After setting mine up to the specs in the instructions I dropped the ball down one hole because it was just a bit too high. Now TV and trailer are as level as possible. I have only reset the nuts once due to different loads in the TV and then it was minor adjustments. All other times have been just hook up and go. The engineering is so different from anything else on the market that it just stumps the so called experts. As more are sold and used I believe it may become the standard for some TV/trailer combinations and the system will start being copied by other manufacturers.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:21 AM   #24
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I looked at the posts linked on the Woodalls thread and found lots of good info. My first impression is this will put a tremendous amount of stress on the receiver. I need to look more to fully understand how this system really projects the weight. I understand the sway control but am uncomfortable with the small bearing area. What about bounce or uneven inclines? The weight distribution....I don't know. It looks great. I hope it works. I'll still keep my HAHA though.

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Old 06-06-2012, 11:35 AM   #25
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This is a HAHA killer.

As for the torque on the TV receiver it is exactly the same as any other WD hitch. It is a simple analysis of a fulcrum. If you are going to transfer XX lbs to the front axle of the TV through the receiver the force on the receiver will be the same. All any WD hitch does it stick a shaft in the receiver and pull up on it. The method of producing the upward force may vary, historical some form of spring bars acting against the hitch head, but the result is always the same at the receiver.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:36 AM   #26
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I see they have a 4 inch and a 6 inch drop rise hitch. How do you know which one to get.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:44 AM   #27
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I don't remember what you are towing with but I am sure the 4 will be it. They will confirm this when you order.

One of the You Tube videos goes into this in detail.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:26 PM   #28
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Howie, I will wait and see. I'm a mechanical engineer and know all about force, and tension and how fulcrums work. I think this one is to stiff. Different bar lengths produce different amounts of force. I am not being negative only thinking out loud. I need to read more. I can see I will not be able to open my tailgate. Is this correct? I need to read more technical info on the Woodalls thread and wrap my head around it. If someone can sell me something that is as effectiive and safe as Hensley or Propride in a 60lb box and it looks so good, I'll be in line.
Don't be so defensive, you know you've opened a can of worms here.

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