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Old 07-16-2012, 11:32 PM   #239
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What is the advantage of that type of thread? Strength? Resistance to unthreading on its own? Longevity?
It's strength, it is tacking the place of the torsion bars and their chains. The treads are at least 1/16 inch thick and again as deep.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:01 AM   #240
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What is the advantage of that type of thread? Strength? Resistance to unthreading on its own? Longevity?
I would say all of the above.
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:14 AM   #241
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This type of thread is call a Power Screw. There are 3 types, square, acme, and buttress, within this category. They are used because of their general efficiency in transfer power.

For a more complete explanation.

Power Screws
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:31 AM   #242
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Power screws.. good information
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Old 07-17-2012, 12:58 PM   #243
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I hooked up my F-150 over the 4th of July weekend and took a 300mile round trip. No issues at all with the TV switch except I had to lower the ball to the next hole down.The Ford is about 2 inches higher than the Chevy. All hitching went very smooth and as hot as it was I was glad. Once hooked up and chains tightened, the front was brought back down to the exact high it was unloaded.
I was very pleased with the way it worked in traffic on both I-75 and the 2 lane road across the state. On the way home, an idiot can flying around me and for some reason slammed on brakes to pull off the road. I had to get on the brakes hard enough for the anti-lock to activate for second or two and swerve slightly to get around him. I'm not sure what the trailer was doing with the braking, but every thing stayed straight and true. Almost a non event. That was the first time I can recall the anti-locks activated while I was towing. I am still very pleased with this hitch and will post more after our trip up north and will get in some fairly high passes.
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:00 PM   #244
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Joe, glad to hear you are liking the hitch. I still have not had a chance to hook up to my new F150 and readjust the Andersen hitch set up. I think the Ford hitch is only about an inch or so higher than the Xterra. I hope I don't have to buy a new shank and the four inch one I have will still work. Hopefully this weekend I can get out for a couple of days. I need a little lake and woods time.
PS: Just got off the phone with Amy at Andersen and the cost of a new longer shank is $90. Hopefully I will not need it.
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:08 PM   #245
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PS: Just got off the phone with Amy at Andersen and the cost of a new longer shank is $90. Hopefully I will not need it.
If you have not installed the hitch why won't they just swap the shank for the cost of the shipping? Do you mean longer or taller?
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:17 PM   #246
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Howie, Actualy I have been using the hitch on the Xterra I traded for the Ford F150. But a swap is a possiblity. Dave was out of town at a show or something. I am going to call him back in a couple of days. Amy said it might be possible to trade them out, but she did not have the authority to make that call. I have a feeling that he will go for doing the trade. Their customer Service is second to none. If not I will take the hit and buy a new one if needed.
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:33 PM   #247
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I had ordered mine on line, but due to misunderstandings on my part and the part of the seller, all I got was the 8" drop shank, not the hitch. When we got that straightened out, Andersen drop shipped a hitch, minus the shank, as I had that already. Andersen did tell me that although the list price is the same for every variety of their hitch ($499), the wholesale price of some of them to the dealers is different, with the drop shank being more expensive by about $15 or $20 as I recall. Because of all the screw ups, someone ate that cost, and I think it was the online seller of the hitch.

At any rate, you need to know three things to properly order the Andersen hitch:
1. The ball size (2 5/16 for the Airstreams)
2. The frame size (choices are 3 to 4 inches, 4 3/8 inches, 5 to 6 inches, and 8 inches)
3. The need for a drop shank. Choices are 4" drop/rise or 8" drop rise.
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Old 07-17-2012, 03:42 PM   #248
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Not all Airstreams are 2 5/16, my Bambi II is 2 inch ball. Also it is good to know how long a chain you will need. They added 2 extra links to both sides of mine when it was spec'ed out so that I could clear the gas bottles without having to move them. I would recommend even if buying thru a third party to give Andersen a call and talk about what you need for your specific combination. Great people to work with and very open with information and advice.
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:42 PM   #249
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I was playing around with the hitch and stinger this afternoon. I now wonder if the reason Andersen does not specify lube on the ball is related in any way to the fact that the friction material in the ball socket might get lube on it if the ball were over lubed. it could easily happen especially if you were sloppy or put too much on. It might have something to do with the "no lube needed" part of Andersen's instructions. I am still applying a very small amount of lube to the ball when it is hooked up, and removing it with a paper towel when I unhitch.

We are still learning, huh?
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Old 07-17-2012, 09:47 PM   #250
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I was playing around with the hitch and stinger this afternoon. I now wonder if the reason Andersen does not specify lube on the ball is related in any way to the fact that the friction material in the ball socket might get lube on it if the ball were over lubed. it could easily happen especially if you were sloppy or put too much on. It might have something to do with the "no lube needed" part of Andersen's instructions. I am still applying a very small amount of lube to the ball when it is hooked up, and removing it with a paper towel when I unhitch.

We are still learning, huh?
WHY? If you see the reason why not to why would you do something that is unnecessary?

Given the all lubes migrate, especially down hill, I think your reason is a good one.
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:12 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF
Joe, glad to hear you are liking the hitch. I still have not had a chance to hook up to my new F150 and readjust the Andersen hitch set up. I think the Ford hitch is only about an inch or so higher than the Xterra. I hope I don't have to buy a new shank and the four inch one I have will still work. Hopefully this weekend I can get out for a couple of days. I need a little lake and woods time.
PS: Just got off the phone with Amy at Andersen and the cost of a new longer shank is $90. Hopefully I will not need it.
Michael,
Mine is a 4 inch and works fine as far as I can tell. I would think yours would as well.
Joe
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Old 07-17-2012, 10:52 PM   #252
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WHY? If you see the reason why not to why would you do something that is unnecessary?

Given the all lubes migrate, especially down hill, I think your reason is a good one.
Howie: The first hookup I made without grease, and I had just cleaned the coupler of grease so it was a totally dry fit. When I unhitched, there was obvious metal to metal contact and it just looked harsh on the ball. It even appeared to me to have a slight amount of galling. Although the ball does not rotate in the normal way, there still is that small movement caused by the side to side roll, and the pitch of the TV vs. the Trailer. I think that movement deserves a tiny amount of lube on the ball. When I have subsequently hooked up and used the hitch, that lube made the small gaul appearing marks I got on the first hookup smooth out.

Like your find that a very small amount of lube applied to the triangular plate hole, and not called for in the instructions, sometimes users can find better solutions after working with the product. I chose to use a very small amount of white grease on the ball and take it off with a paper towel when unhitching. I think it helps rather than dry metal to metal contact from the top of the ball to the coupler cup, and from the rear latch of the coupler to the ball rear face.

For now, that is what I am doing. I might change my mind later. Remember, it is a very small amount of lube I am using and it is not a fluid, like oil. It will not get into the friction material, but overuse of lube could. I think Andersen may be concerned about that issue, and thus does not call for lube on the ball at all.
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