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Old 08-26-2013, 11:34 PM   #2255
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I disagree that air bags don't help with weight distribution. While they may not transfer weight to the front axle. They do help with getting the TV and trailer hitch geometry level.
By starting at a level geometry. No matter what WD system is used. The force required to level the 2 units is less, therefore the force required to transfer the weight to the front axle is less.
I have used and do use airbags on my previous 3/4 ton TV as well as my new 1/2 ton TV. I am happy with the results.
TGT: I am not sure if you are referring to my statement about the Air Suspension on my Jeep or some other post. Just to be clear, the Jeep Grand Cherokee full Air Suspension has no steel springs, no shocks, and is a computer driven system with pipes and valves going to special air springs on all 4 wheels. It is not a system of air bags added on to conventional springs. As such, it is a bit different in how one sets it up with a WD hitch. It must be locked off of it's automatic settings to set up a WD hitch, and the best way to do the setup is with actual scale numbers, although I have found it can be done with fender measurements, providing the system is turned off so the computer does not fight what you are trying to accomplish with the WD system.

The new 2014 half ton Ram pickups are available (or maybe standard equipped) with a similar system so there will be a lot more of them around soon.

BTW, it seems to work very well, although it has a mind of it's own at times. I am happy with it at any rate.

If you were referring to some other post, sorry to inject this comment. Just trying to clarify the issue of full Air Suspension vs. air bags.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:05 AM   #2256
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Getting ready with the Quickbite

Well Labor Day weekend is coming soon and I have to finish up my transition to the Quickbite coupler.

Yesterday I hitched up to see if I needed to change the shank mount height, since the QB sits higher than the old Atwood coupler. It was actually the right height for hitching up, but when the tongue jack was raised it was apparent I did need to raise it. Fortunately, I had one more hole to go up on the shank mount, which seems to place everything at the right height. [1st pic]

Next, attaching the Andersen chains to the new setup: As I mentioned before, the QB adds a some length to the front of the A-frame, requiring approximately 3 more chain lengths, by my measurements. Also, I discovered Andersen wanted $81 per side to make the special chains. Rendag, I have asked around and no one I talked to locally seems to know where a "farm store" is that would add links. I don't really want to add 3 shackles, or a shackle and 2 links. Nor do I want a link that is only squeezed closed, but not welded. So the simplest approach seemed to be to move the brackets forward. Of course "simplest" doesn't mean easy. I moved them forward as far as I could, which puts them up against the front crossmember of the A-frame and on top of the weld bead my neighbor added. [2d pic shows old and new location] [3d pic is birds eye view showing crossmember under the propane tank tray. Note, I also had to bend the propane tube out of the way]. I re-hitched up and that is just barely close enough to get my Andersen chains mounted through the neoprene with about 1 to 2 threads showing. That is before tightening them up enough to WD. So it should work. Now, I just have to grind down the old beads, reattach brackets and grind away enough paint so my welder/neighbor can attach the outer brackets with a 2" weld on the backside, as Andersen recommends. I should be good to go after a little touch up painting. We'll see.

RE QUICKBITE: There is a learning curve to hitching up, especially since I am hitching on uneven backyard ground. The first thing I found out is that the 2 sighting rods QB provides will not fit around my spare tire. The first hitch went perfect, but pinned the rods in so tight they were damaged beyond use when I pulled them free. I can't use them without removing the spare, so I went back to the old yellow tennis ball on a stick method. Not as slick, but doable. My beginners luck did not hold out as I had a harder time hitching up the 2d time. But in time I think I will get the hang of it. Without being able to watch the 2 rods come together I have to line up carefully and listen for the click. But the jaws of the hitch did not come together as well as they did the first time. A little side pressure seems to keep them open (even though they are supposed to give a 2" tolerance when hitching). I was able to push on the sides and close them by hand enough to lower the curved strap and put in the safety pin. And unhitching works, well....without a hitch. So far, so good.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:30 PM   #2257
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Ready, set....

All ready for the weld and touch up paint. Rustoleumed the surrounding bare or rusty metal, except for the metal I ground off for the welds. Hooked everything back up, hitched up once again to make sure of placement. Even put in about 4 threads of tight. The hitching up is definitely getting easier. This time I did it correctly, instead of dumb luck. The quickbite is much nicer than my old Atwood.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:13 PM   #2258
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Andersen Ok

Just returned from 29 days on the road. Texas to Yellowstone and back. F150 Ecoboost and 25 FB Safari. 3600 miles. Andersen hitch. No sway, no porpoising, steering good, no problems. Eyes on the 88010 hitch every day, no noticeable wear. Employing belts and suspenders. Good times. No worries.

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Old 08-28-2013, 08:36 PM   #2259
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Originally Posted by SafariBez View Post
Just returned from 29 days on the road. Texas to Yellowstone and back. F150 Ecoboost and 25 FB Safari. 3600 miles. Andersen hitch. No sway, no porpoising, steering good, no problems. Eyes on the 88010 hitch every day, no noticeable wear. Employing belts and suspenders. Good times. No worries.

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Be careful. I just replaced my Atwood with a Quickbite and found a crack inside the Atwood after it was cut off. A 2012 Airstream!
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:41 PM   #2260
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...go!

OK, everything is ready, hitch wise. Will clean and pack up tomorrow to be ready to roll after work Friday. The welds came out nice, as you can see. Oh, and I will plug up all the excess holes with Vulkem, or whatever its called.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:44 PM   #2261
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Hey Rich, Instead of making a mess with sealer, I got some stainless self tapping bolts to fill old hitch holes. I think it looks more "industrial" and plain old better. Doesn't look like a patch. I did use sealer on the threads to keep rust at bay a little longer.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:47 AM   #2262
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Hi, why not just weld the extra holes closed?
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:30 AM   #2263
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Both good suggestions but (A) I'm running out of time and have prevailed upon my neighbor (in the 100 degree heat) long enough and (B) half the holes are on the side with the umbilical cord running through it, which I already had to replace after making some of those holes. I have the sealer and the paint and 6 holes. Should be nice and dry inside with all this heat and I just want keep it that way.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:44 AM   #2264
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...snip.........Rendag, I have asked around and no one I talked to locally seems to know where a "farm store" is that would add links. I don't really want to add 3 shackles, or a shackle and 2 links. Nor do I want a link that is only squeezed closed, but not welded. So the simplest approach seemed to be to move the brackets forward. Of course "simplest" doesn't mean easy. ...snip..............
Sorry if I confused. Any construction/industrial supply house can provide extension or coupler links that are as strong or stronger than the original chain. Lots easier than moving brackets. I looked some up on Grainger to verify this.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:46 AM   #2265
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Hey Rich, If you're worried about moisture and rust maybe get some spray stuff to put inside the frame before sealing the holes. Readily available in spray cans with applicator wand from most auto supply stores. Some of the better ones come as a waxy mist that sticks and repels moisture.

I too plan to install the QB coupler. I have one ready to go just haven't gotten to the welder yet. Still up in the air though about coupling and uncoupling at angles. Seems to happen to me often enough to make me think about it.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:08 AM   #2266
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Originally Posted by polarlyse View Post
Hey Rich, If you're worried about moisture and rust maybe get some spray stuff to put inside the frame before sealing the holes. Readily available in spray cans with applicator wand from most auto supply stores. Some of the better ones come as a waxy mist that sticks and repels moisture.

I too plan to install the QB coupler. I have one ready to go just haven't gotten to the welder yet. Still up in the air though about coupling and uncoupling at angles. Seems to happen to me often enough to make me think about it.
Not really worried about moisture. It's pretty dry out here most of the time. Just didn't want to seal any in, but that won't be a problem right now since it has been so hot for some time.

Re: backing and hitching at an angle. Now that I have hitched a few times, you may have a point. I'm not as sure as I was that it would be easy to do. I haven't really had to back up at an angle in my travels so far, so I'm not worried about it, but if you do, then maybe you should look at something else.
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:54 AM   #2267
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I'm prepared to still give it a go. I will then have to be more conscious of how and where I park and unhitch. I just didn't need to worry much about it before. I guess it will make me have to think about it. Thanx for sharing your experiences.

PS: I do have to worry about moisture out here so I think along those lines. Think rust and the northeast, Happy Together.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:07 AM   #2268
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Success!

Well I made it to the mountains, out of the heat, through the rain and into the cold. It towed like a dream. Now to sleep. All is well.
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