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Old 06-22-2012, 07:17 AM   #211
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Are the drop brawbars adjustable? I have an old truck and an even older hitch setup. I think the hitch setup may need replaced before we are able to replace the truck. So will the six inch drop ( needed for new truck) cover the shorter drop (needed for the warn out current truck)?
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:34 AM   #212
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There are two bars available: 4" or 8" drop/rise adjustable shank available
Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch
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Old 06-22-2012, 12:37 PM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purman View Post
In the sleeve that the ball goes down through. the ball shaft is tapered so the more weight the more friction.

Trying to understand the sway control here... are you saying as you distribute tongue weight, less weight on the hitch ball, you diminish the sway control due to less friction?



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Old 06-22-2012, 01:36 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
Trying to understand the sway control here... are you saying as you distribute tongue weight, less weight on the hitch ball, you diminish the sway control due to less friction?



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Have you watched their videos? they are in the early posts. They can do a better job of explaining it than me. But from my understanding pressure on the ball is greater with a WD hitch. (but I have been wrong before)
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Old 06-22-2012, 01:40 PM   #215
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Trying to understand the sway control here... are you saying as you distribute tongue weight, less weight on the hitch ball, you diminish the sway control due to less friction?



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Why would that be? I can't see the physics behind the statement. There would be three vectors of force, one downward into the taper, one towards the back of the taper at the top and one in the front near the bottom of the taper since the chains are pivoting the ball forward and the TV is pulling back on the ball.

Other interesting statements in this thread I can't quite understand. Since the ball rests inside a doomed coupler, how is it that the ball can damage the latching mechanism? It seems that could only happen if the ball had the opportunity to move backwards to exert a force on the mechanism. But the ball in fact is pivoted into the front of the coupler because of the WD action by the chains. The fact that there is no movement between the ball and the coupler is another big plus.

Finally a traditional WD bar is doing the same thing that the chains are doing, i.e., they are pivoting the ball forward. The advantage of the chain vs the bar is that there is no resonance with the chain. Again, genius design.

I have ordered one since I think the designers got this revolutionary design right and all the real-life experiences have been positive to very positive and seem to support that notion.
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Old 06-22-2012, 04:09 PM   #216
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Correction of tongue weight

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Ron, all the parts of the Hensley were on except the stinger. The weight was taken on the jack. Probably 950 to 1000 lbs tongue weight now would be in the ball park. I think my weighing days are over with the bathroom scales except to see how tubby I am getting! Maybe I could find some 5 to 10% less there!
I put the tongue on a Sherline Tongue Weight Scale. I came in at 775 pounds. The reading was taken with the scale in the coupler. All the hitch parts were included and the stinger was on the tank cover. One of the 40 lb propane tanks is full the other has about 10 lbs left in it.
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:24 AM   #217
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Thanks for the link, looks like I should just order the big one the first time and cover any truck we end up with.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:48 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
Trying to understand the sway control here... are you saying as you distribute tongue weight, less weight on the hitch ball, you diminish the sway control due to less friction?
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A perfectly straight forward statement.

Originally Posted by purman
In the sleeve that the ball goes down through. the ball shaft is tapered so the more weight the more friction.

If I knew the angle of the taper we could calculate the trigonometric value but I am sure you will accept that the force to the side walls of a taper are increased as the force applied to the taper goes up. It is called a wedge.

The spring bar hitches actually increase the force on the ball but in this hitch there is little or no change in the tongue weight while hitched since the the force produced by the chains is actually pulling rearward as apposed to downward on the frame.

Just got back from a 350 mile weekend during which I intentionally played with tractor trailers just to see if I could get a reaction. No such luck this hitch is awesome.


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Old 06-26-2012, 12:03 AM   #219
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After some delays, no one's real fault, my Andersen arrived tonight. Some rain scheduled for tomorrow, but I hope to get it set up soon and take it to the scales as well as out for a trip. Too bad I didn't get it in time for my 1100 mile trip last week, but this gives me an excuse to go out again soon.

It is a very elegant design and I already love the light weight. I have de greased my coupler and since no grease is used in the Andersen, it will be nice not to have that constant issue either.

More soon.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:54 AM   #220
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I got my Andersen WD hitch hooked up today between the rainstorms we have been having. The install went smoothly enough, but I have not drilled the holes for the pointed set screws yet as I am always hesitant to drill holes in my trailer tongue until I am absolutely sure that they are needed and in the right place. Nothing has shifted so far with the screws only forced into the frame. I had to move the copper gas line which runs along the bottom of the rear road side frame rail. Not much of a job there, only two clamps had to be moved and re riveted.

When I looked at the dynamics of the system, I realized that by having a TV with a high hitch box, which required a drop stinger, I actually have a multiplying effect of the lifting force on the TV. This is because of the farther distance from the triangular plate to the top of the hitch stinger bar than with a ball height which is close to the TV hitch box top. So, if you require a drop stinger, you will actually need less tension on the chains that do the weight distribution.

There is definitely pressure on the rear latching mechanism in the coupler. When hooked up, there is no way to move the unlatching system on the coupler. With my conventional WD hitch, I can lift the latching bar easily when hooked up.

My TV is a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee, with full automatic air suspension (no springs or shocks) and the trailer is a '74 Argosy 20' single axle, weight of about 4160# with 3480# on the wheels and 680# on the tongue. This is a tricky rig to set up with the Air Suspension. The tongue weight is quite high for a trailer of its size. The trailer axle was replaced with a Dexter two years ago. I have 16" wheels and Goodrich LT 225 75 R 16's running 55 psi on the trailer.

I have finally found that there is a way to turn the Air Suspension off on the Jeep when setting up a trailer WD system by the "old way" of measuring fender heights. That is what I did today in the rain to start with. As soon as possible I will go the 110 miles to the nearest scale to get real weight numbers to verify my preliminary rough setup.

At any rate, hooked up, the trailer is dead level front to back at 16" to the bottom of the frame rail, as loaded for my normal travel. My preliminary wheel/fender height on the Jeep as hooked up, is 34" rear and about 33.5 in the front. I had to back off the threads on the hitch, as I was too high in the back and low in the front. Right now, I have 6 threads showing on the chain/bushing set. BTW, it is somewhat hard for me to find a level enough spot to do best measurements where I live.

I took the setup on two short runs, one, 12 miles on a local paved but narrow road with not the best pavement. The other a 50 mile run on a two lane windy road along the Lochsa river here in Idaho, good quality, but a 50 mph speed limit due to the curves and somewhat narrow nature of the beast. I drove no faster than 55.

BTW, I just got back 3 days ago from an 1100 mile trip with the same rig, but with my old Reese/Draw Tight round bar WD system, so I have lots of fresh memory of the conventional equipment. I have never had a sway issue with my conventional WD hitch, so I do not use any sway control system. The 1100 miles had 900 of towing. The rig handled well, solid, and like one unit with a hinge in the middle. Due to the inability to lower the hitch and the high hitch box on the jeep, I did make the trip with the Argosy 2" too high in the front. Absolutely no complaints about how the conventional system works. I probably have 200,000 miles of towing experience over the past 33 years, all with Airstreams or Argosy's.

The Andersen is an experiment, and I liked the idea of a lighter weight hitch as I get older. I also like the greaseless nature of the hitch, and the elegance of the concept. I decided to try one out.

On the short 12 mile run, I noticed one difference between the two systems, old an new. The road is rather uneven and rough. Speeds were less than 40 mph. the trailer side to side movement was higher on the Andersen than the convention bar system. Now, this was NOT a problem, just an observation. I figure the lack of downward pull on the trailer frame by the spring bars may be the reason. The Argosy felt a little more free to move or rock independently from the Jeep with the Andersen. Again, an honest observation on my rig, not a complaint or issue in my mind. I did NOT notice the same issue on the longer run on a more conventional road.

On the longer 50 mile run, on good pavement but lots and lots of curves, the new Andersen simply had the Argosy following the Jeep like it was glued together. No push, pull, side to side, or any movement foreign to driving the Jeep as if it were solo. Now, the conventional system also handles very very well on the same road, however in my mind the Andersen is somewhat better, with absolutely no subtile push from the trailer on corners at 50 mph. This is speculation on my part, but the conventional hitch has two bars off center from the hitch ball which can exert some side pressure on the TV. The Andersen has only the center rotating shaft under the ball. All pivot action is in one line, not three as on a conventional WD hitch. I may be all wet in that thought, but the bottom line is that the road feel is excellent.

Remember this is a first setup, and although I may have had the luck to hit it just right initially, further numbers from the scale will tell me more about what weight is really being put where on the TV and trailer.

I wanted to give you my first impressions while they were fresh in my mind. I have not unhooked it yet, so cannot comment on that process. It was rainy here most of the day.

I will add to this post as I learn more and am more confident in my impressions and experiences. I want to state, once more, that I have never been unhappy with conventional WD hitches, nor their towing ability. Most all of my experience has been with trailers 25' and under. I have towed in all states, and made 5 trips to the Yukon and Alaska, and driven north of the Arctic Circle, all with an AS in tow. The Andersen intrigues me from the engineering standpoint, and I decided to try one for my self. With more experience, I may be able to list my opinions of the positives and negatives in a rational manner. Nothing is ever all good, or all bad. I hope we can sort this one out and see how deep the pile is on either side.
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Old 06-27-2012, 05:34 PM   #221
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Well, sunny today and I decided to un hitch to see just how easy or difficult that was with the Andersen. It is somewhat different than a conventional WD hitch, but easy enough, so no problems there.

I had previously de greased the hitch coupler, but had not looked inside very carefully. With the Andersen, since more pressure is put on the rear of the ball, I wanted to see where the pressure points were on the ball and the coupler. The ball had some marks on it of left over grease, so I could see that and took some photos. When I looked inside the coupler for the spots I had seen on the ball, I found something else: two hairline cracks. Ooops. The cracks were obviously not new, and were NOT created recently or caused by the Andersen, but never the less, at this point I am needing a new coupler so I will have no more information on the Andersen, other than that I posted last night until that is done. Remember this is a very well used 38 year old Argosy. I have towed it many thousands of miles, and who knows how many miles it had gone when I got it 14 years ago.

A wake up call to me, I had never given any thought to coupler life, but mine is at it's end. So, the silver lining of the Andersen is that it caused me to look at my coupler and find that failure was going to happen soon, no matter what WD hitch system I was using.

If you want to see what I found, look for my new thread asking for coupler advice. Photos there. I don't want to hijack this thread.

BTW, I weighed my new Andersen stinger and ball mount, and got 22#. The chains and plate stay on the trailer, so they don't have to be handled or lifted.

I then weighed my old Reese/Draw Tight stinger and ball mount at 40#. The spring bars for that hitch weigh another 18#. I like the lower weights of the Andersen.

This is turning out to be the hitch summer I guess.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:11 PM   #222
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Well another fun 250 mile weekend. Had one truck go by me while I was doing 70 and he was closer to 75+ Did feel him but it was not a sway situation.

Food for thought.

You may want to grind a angle across the center bottom edge on the plate. The plate tends to cut into the jack post as you raise the rig in order to hitch up. Just knock the edge off.

I noticed the plate was getting a bit harder to slip on and off the shank. Took a 1/2 round file and removed the high spots that showed contact marks. Not sure if this will be a continuing issue or not. After cleaning up the fit I did put a light coat of oil in the hole in the plate and now it slips on and off like a dream. Notice I did not say grease. About the same amount of oil you used to put on your weapon.
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:30 PM   #223
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Howie, that last could be taken so many ways.☺
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Old 07-04-2012, 09:43 AM   #224
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And with many of the same consequences.
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