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Old 07-19-2013, 10:17 AM   #2213
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Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
I think this, combined with your previous posts, is saying the Andersen should be able to apply enough downward force on the front axle to maintain steering geometry.
And, that equates to saying the Andersen should be able to apply enough downward force on the front axle to cause about 1/2" of drop on the rear axle and about 3/8" of drop on the front.

Have I misquoted anything you posted?

Ron
No Ron you have not misquoted anything it is just that you have no understanding of what you are reading. It would be nice if you could separate comments made with regard to a bar type WD hitch and those directed to the Andersen.

Having written political campaign press releases. I to am aware of the use of ambiguous half truths and intentional misdirection. Did use a few. We are not campaigning for a place at the trough here we are attempting to disseminate useful information that will allow the readers to make a TRULY informed decision. And yes the complete slate was elected.

Maintaining steering geometry does not infer that the front axle has to be dropped at all. If one has returned the front axle to within the normal limits as designed that's it.

Now don't go off on one of your tangents and quibble about what are the normal limits that retain the design limitations of the front axle. Remember Detroit did figure that my mother in law might ride in the front or back seat of the TV and thus a significant change in front axle load but still within limits.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:18 AM   #2214
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Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Rich, that thing is a beast of a coupler for a small trailer. Sad that Airstream is cutting corners by installing such a cheaply made coupler on their trailers and that new owners have to make such a change in the name of basic safety. It goes hand and hand with all the other QA issues that they have. Coupler brand and ball size should be an available no cost option.
Yes, it is. It added some weight, but I still think I am ahead with the Andersen compared to my Reese dual cam. I definitely think one shouldn't scrimp on safety. Air Force drilled that into my head for almost 28 years.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:22 AM   #2215
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HowieE! Almost 2 days of peace and you're stirring up the kids again!?
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:26 AM   #2216
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Rich, I would think the small added weight would be worth it for the upgrade. I do know from actual experience that the Andersen WD system might be the best system for smaller trailers such as ours. I know what you mean about having safety drilled into the head courtesy of 22 years of Naval Aviation. Contrary to what some very uninformed people here seem to think, I wold not be using the Andersen if I did not think it was safe. Spending thousands of dollars is not necessary for a safe drive.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:12 AM   #2217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
Rich, I would think the small added weight would be worth it for the upgrade. I do know from actual experience that the Andersen WD system might be the best system for smaller trailers such as ours. I know what you mean about having safety drilled into the head courtesy of 22 years of Naval Aviation. Contrary to what some very uninformed people here seem to think, I wold not be using the Andersen if I did not think it was safe. Spending thousands of dollars is not necessary for a safe drive.
Well said, Chief.
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:35 AM   #2218
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I know I do! USERS UNITE!

But seriously, folks...here's a couple pics of the final buffed and painted, welded on, new quick bite and my helpful welder/neighbor Steve. Great job, Steve!

.
Wow that looks great! Most guys named Steve are pretty cool :-)

That should be a factory option!!
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:54 PM   #2219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
No Ron you have not misquoted anything it is just that you have no understanding of what you are reading. It would be nice if you could separate comments made with regard to a bar type WD hitch and those directed to the Andersen.

Maintaining steering geometry does not infer that the front axle has to be dropped at all. If one has returned the front axle to within the normal limits as designed that's it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
There is no single answer as to how to adjust a WD hitch. It is a function of the spring rate of the TV. The important consideration is to maintain the steering geometry of the front axle. Too little or too much transferred to the front axle will cause problems. Too little equals a lose of steering control. Too much will cause tire problems.

I generally try for a 60/40 ratio in depression of the fender heights. This will change depending on the springs of the TV.
Howie, please help me to understand.

Does the first paragraph of the second quote refer to maintaining the steering geometry of the front axle?
Does the first paragraph of the second quote also imply there is an optimum amount of load which should be transferred to the front axle -- too little causing loss of steering control and too much causing tire problems?

Does the second paragraph of the second quote have any connection to the first paragraph?
IOW, is it correct to infer that you considered a "60/40 ratio in depression of the fender heights" would give the correct amount of load transfer to the front axle and therefore maintain the correct steering geometry?

Thanks for helping me to understand what I am reading.

Ron
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #2220
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And the friction anti-sway helps when I go thru the high winds near Palm Springs.On our way home from thousands and thousands of miles of travel we did go thru the fierce winds of the Palm Springs wind farm. The Andersen Hitch held up like a breeze. We were apprehensive a bit beforehand but that's about it, it held as designed. Actually stayed in one of those hot springs resorts for a much needed rest/ relaxation for a couple days.
We're in the process of prolonging our travels because the Andersen Hitch held so well that it has given us peace of mind.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #2221
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This is from a Andersen hitch user who preferred that I post his experience here rather than his becoming a member of this forum.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Towing: Andersen No-Sway Experience

For those who do not want to follow the link, I will give my condensed version:

He give it a "thumbs up" for the way it performs. He liked its "predictability", "Quietness", "Ease of Use", "Sway Control", and "Weight Distribution". All in all, he is happy with the Andersen hitch and feels good about recommending it to others.

I will add that he is towing a 10,000 pound trailer (his estimate) with an adequate tow vehicle (2500HD). That may have something to with his success as well as the fact that he is an experienced driver. (He is also a very good writer)
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:24 PM   #2222
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Tell your friend thank you and very well worded write up.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:24 AM   #2223
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Just got back from a 100 mile jaunt over the weekend. The Andersen hitch, Quick-bite coupler and the EZ electrical connector are working great together.

I agree with AWCHEIF above, thank you for the write up.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:05 AM   #2224
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WOW, a very well written, thoughtful and comprehensive write up. And a positive one too. I guess there's hope for US Anderson users yet. I hope to do a conversion to the QB coupler in the next month or so myself. At that time I will carefully inspect the original Atwood coupler, after removal, to see if 13 years of use and recently with about 8k miles of Anderson use has caused any concerns.

See ya'll on the road sometime.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:52 PM   #2225
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New chains coming

Ordered new chains to go with my new quickbite coupler. I found that I was almost 3 links short reaching the triangular plate under the new coupler. So instead of adding a screw open link I ordered 2 new chains with 3 extra links. Anderson is sending them to me at cost. Don't have the final price yet, but it's estimated to be around $30 apiece. That's $28 for the standard chain plus a couple bucks.

Not long ago I bent one of the adjustable screws when using a trailer mover, so I wanted to replace that one anyway. I figure I am going to all this trouble to get it set up correctly, I might as well spring for the chains. Will not have to worry about some vandal unscrewing them when I am not looking, as well.
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:03 AM   #2226
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Another way to attach brackets

I have had an Andersen hitch for over a year now, and used it very successfully on my '74 Argosy 20'

I have a new 20' FC with a 5 inch frame, so I could not use my older brackets and had to order new ones.

Someone posted an idea of mounting the brackets with the set screw on the bottom on the chain tube side, and on the top on the inside of the frame. They said it would prevent the rotation that has been experienced. Add to that the fact that I don't want to weld anything on to my frame, so I can easily go to another hitch chain bracket if I want to. So, I thought that was a good idea.

In addition, the problem with the set screw system is that it is very very hard to tighten to the "three full turns" that Andersen suggests, and on the inside the battery box on my new rig prevents me from accessing the screw at all. So, I decided to pre thread the set screws into the brackets, then place the brackets against the frame and use the big bolts to squeeze the brackets with the set screws into the frame, dimpling the frame in the process with the set screws.

Well, it worked like a charm! I actually pre screwed the set screws (one on top, one on the bottom) in two turns from flush (three is too much). Then tightening the brackets onto the frame forced the set screws into the frame with one on the top on the inside, the other on the bottom on the outside. The brackets do not rotate on the set screws and remain vertical.

See the attached photo to understand the top/bottom set screw idea. Clamping the frame with the set screws already extended can't be photographed but I think you can understand what I did and how it would work.

I have only towed 200 miles with it so far, but there is no indication of bracket movement, they are both vertical as they were when I put them in place.

Thanks to the poster who suggested the top/bottom set screw idea, and I think my pre set and squeeze is another improvement to make the install much easier, and this avoids welding.
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