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Old 06-14-2013, 09:21 PM   #1919
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Andersen recently sent me a new triangular plate because my original one would not remove from the hitch without using a mallet.

The new plate is 1" shorter than the old plate. Not sure why that is. Was there a change recently?

It's been difficult because my brackets were set up and mounted for the old plate and using the new one has caused me some headaches!
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:59 PM   #1920
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Shorter in which dimension? Distance between the chain holes or distance between the center line between the chain holes and the ball shank?

The first, if shorter, will have a reduced leverage on sway control. I can only see the second being a material cost reduction measure.

After Steve jumps in to accuse then of more skullduggery we may come up with the answer.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:02 PM   #1921
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Actually, the distance between the chain holes will have no effect on the sway control, assuming there is not slop.

The chain plate in relation to the trailer tongue never moves.
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:21 PM   #1922
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
Bruce, didn't you drill out your set-screw hole and then drill a second hole in the bracket so the two bracket holes aligned with two pre-drilled holes in your A-frame?

If so, where are the two holes located relative to the top and bottom of the A-frame. The optimum positioning of the tack welds will depend on where the bolts are located.

I believe you also installed bronze bushings in the bracket holes. Are the bushings showing wear? Is that why you want to weld the brackets?

Ron
Hey Ron, great memory! Yes, that is exactly what I did. I was an early adopter of the Andersen hitch and at the time, the only available bracket was for 5-6" frames. The frame on my lightweight Lance tapers from 5" at the cabin to 3" at the coupler, and is about 4" where the brackets go. So I modified these large brackets to fit my frame in the way you described.

However, after reading on this thread that at least one person has experienced elongating of the set screw hole, I checked my brackets and found that the bracket angles had changed. I removed the brackets and found that the holes in the frame had started to elongate.

So I purchased the 3-4" brackets and have installed them using the 4" spacing. The chain tube is angled down from the bracket. With the brackets installed and with tension on the urethane springs, the upper and lower bolts compress against the frame, with the chain tube pointing right at the chain plate. I don't intend to even install the the set screws, but just rely on spot welding to prevent any slippage.

Bruce
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:09 AM   #1923
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce H. View Post
---The chain tube is angled down from the bracket. With the brackets installed and with tension on the urethane springs, the upper and lower bolts compress against the frame, with the chain tube pointing right at the chain plate. I don't intend to even install the the set screws, but just rely on spot welding to prevent any slippage.
Bruce, I would place a primary weld near the bottom of the A-frame at the leading edge of the bracket.

If you want to add a second weld, it could be near the top of the frame also at the leading edge.

Ron
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:38 AM   #1924
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Thank you, Ron and Howie, for your input. Will use it with the welder on Monday.

Bruce
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:48 AM   #1925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Shorter in which dimension? Distance between the chain holes or distance between the center line between the chain holes and the ball shank?

The first, if shorter, will have a reduced leverage on sway control. I can only see the second being a material cost reduction measure.

After Steve jumps in to accuse then of more skullduggery we may come up with the answer.
If I'm understanding you correctly, the distance between the chain holes and the ball shank.

It's been tough because I have to really raise the jack to even get the nut threaded onto the chains because I don't have enough chain. I would have to take it back to a mechanic to re-work the brackets.

I have a strong feeling this hitch will not be compatible with my coupler (original Marvel). It puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the latch and the latch raises out of its normal position too much.

I'm going to try one more thing that Andersen has suggested and then make a decision on the hitch. I reallllly want this hitch to work for me!
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:04 AM   #1926
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Star Kitty

You might try adding a ling to the chains if they are short and you can't reposition the brackets. The removable link closest to the plate is what I added when I installed the Quickbit coupler. The QB moved the ball socket 2 in. forward while retaining the jack hole.

If this does not give you the range you need repositioning the brackets is the answer.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:06 AM   #1927
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star, you might consider returning the hitch to your retailer for a refund, as Andersen is not warning of this incompatibility and the likely (sooner or later) trailer uncoupling this contraption will do.

That's how I got rid of the seemingly endless Andersen hitch issues I found using it. Not to mention it is not fully capable of its basic function as a weight distribution hitch.

doug k
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:22 AM   #1928
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Bruce

If you weld, and I don't suggest it, Behind the Top of the bracket is where the greatest force will occur. The Chains pull forward at the bottom and that force will pivot against the set screw causing the top to want to move rearward.

To retain future flexibility I would suggest a second set screw at the top, set in a hole drilled into the frame, or as I did 2 5/16 bolts through the brackets and frame. This will allow you to move things without cutting if it becomes necessary.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:30 AM   #1929
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I have recently put about 1,000 miles on my setup towing from Phoenix, Az to Yellowstone. My setup worked perfect for me. Being quick and easy to hook up and easy to adjust.

I have welded my brackets to the frame on the lower front of the bracket with about a 1/2" weld and it has held great and I have not noticed any slippage of the bracket on the top or bottom.

My pre trip weights were 5,300 lbs on the trailer axles with hitch weight measured with a scale at 720#. I did not make two trips through the scales to test the loading of the weight back the the front axles as I would have had a small revolt from my kids however in my previous testing I was returning 50% to the front axles.

With this setup it towed without sway when passing or being passed and I did not get pushed around by the wind. It also did great with controlling the bounce between the trailer and the TV. Actually at the first fuel stop I put another 1/2 turn on each nut because I felt it needed a little more adjustment with the full load we had for this trip and I liked the ride even better.

I still have plenty of room to tighten the nut down on the bushing and am curious exactly how much weight I can restore to the front axle since that seems to be a huge debate with this hitch.

My trailer and TV are still up at my in-laws house at the northern border of Utah and Idaho as I had to fly back for some work . When I get it back home I will play with the hitch setup to see how much weight I can return to the front axles with my setup as I have truck scales just across the street from the RV wash. For me, even if putting a couple more turns on each bolt returned 100% to the front axles I personally would keep it set up the way it is with about 50% return as it has performed the way I want and I do not see a need to move more weight to the front.

Included photo of where my trailer and TV hang out when I'm not with them!
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:38 AM   #1930
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Craiglud,

You have a relatively short wheelbase tow vehicle, and what most would call a "smaller" trailer with a somewhat lighter tongue weight.

Most would expect the Andersen to work well in your situation, but you really need to return all the unhitched weight to the front axle, especially with a short wheelbase tow vehicle.

What type of coupler does your trailer have?
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:39 AM   #1931
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If there is anyone out there that still may have a question about the benefits of a softer none porpoising ride that the Andersen give here is the results of a 100,000 mile plus use of the Reese system on the front of my trailer.

The body separated from the door on one side all the way around to an equal location on the other side both inside and outside. You will not that the bottom 3/4 in of the outer skin is gone and a piece of material had to be fitted up inside to replace it. Every rivet had either sheared off or torn through the skin.

If you want to retain the use of a spring bar system and travel some distance you may be looking at this type of repair.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:43 AM   #1932
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If there is anyone out there that still may have a question about the benefits of a softer none porpoising ride that the Andersen give here is the results of a 100,000 mile plus use of the Reese system on the front of my trailer.

The body separated from the door on one side all the way around to an equal location on the other side both inside and outside. You will not that the bottom 3/4 in of the outer skin is gone and a piece of material had to be fitted up inside to replace it. Every rivet had either sheared off or torn through the skin.

If you want to retain the use of a spring bar system and travel some distance you may be looking at this type of repair.
Howie,

How can you say for sure the damage your trailer sustained was caused by your hitch?

I have a friend who accidentally dropped his tongue jack off a block of wood and did the same type damage to his 34' Airstream.

Could it be that the 34's being as long as they are, are just susceptible to this type of problem?
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