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HowieE · 07-17-2012, 08:14 AM

This type of thread is call a Power Screw. There are 3 types, square, acme, and buttress, within this category. They are used because of their general efficiency in transfer power.

For a more complete explanation.

Power Screws

Airslide · 07-17-2012, 09:31 AM

Power screws.. good information

AirHeadsRus · 07-17-2012, 11:58 AM

I hooked up my F-150 over the 4th of July weekend and took a 300mile round trip. No issues at all with the TV switch except I had to lower the ball to the next hole down.The Ford is about 2 inches higher than the Chevy. All hitching went very smooth and as hot as it was I was glad. Once hooked up and chains tightened, the front was brought back down to the exact high it was unloaded.
I was very pleased with the way it worked in traffic on both I-75 and the 2 lane road across the state. On the way home, an idiot can flying around me and for some reason slammed on brakes to pull off the road. I had to get on the brakes hard enough for the anti-lock to activate for second or two and swerve slightly to get around him. I'm not sure what the trailer was doing with the braking, but every thing stayed straight and true. Almost a non event. That was the first time I can recall the anti-locks activated while I was towing. I am still very pleased with this hitch and will post more after our trip up north and will get in some fairly high passes.

AWCHIEF · 07-17-2012, 01:00 PM

Joe, glad to hear you are liking the hitch. I still have not had a chance to hook up to my new F150 and readjust the Andersen hitch set up. I think the Ford hitch is only about an inch or so higher than the Xterra. I hope I don't have to buy a new shank and the four inch one I have will still work. Hopefully this weekend I can get out for a couple of days. I need a little lake and woods time.
PS: Just got off the phone with Amy at Andersen and the cost of a new longer shank is $90. Hopefully I will not need it.

HowieE · 07-17-2012, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

PS: Just got off the phone with Amy at Andersen and the cost of a new longer shank is $90. Hopefully I will not need it.

If you have not installed the hitch why won't they just swap the shank for the cost of the shipping? Do you mean longer or taller?

AWCHIEF · 07-17-2012, 02:17 PM

Howie, Actualy I have been using the hitch on the Xterra I traded for the Ford F150. But a swap is a possiblity. Dave was out of town at a show or something. I am going to call him back in a couple of days. Amy said it might be possible to trade them out, but she did not have the authority to make that call. I have a feeling that he will go for doing the trade. Their customer Service is second to none. If not I will take the hit and buy a new one if needed.

idroba · 07-17-2012, 02:33 PM

I had ordered mine on line, but due to misunderstandings on my part and the part of the seller, all I got was the 8" drop shank, not the hitch. When we got that straightened out, Andersen drop shipped a hitch, minus the shank, as I had that already. Andersen did tell me that although the list price is the same for every variety of their hitch ($499), the wholesale price of some of them to the dealers is different, with the drop shank being more expensive by about $15 or $20 as I recall. Because of all the screw ups, someone ate that cost, and I think it was the online seller of the hitch.

At any rate, you need to know three things to properly order the Andersen hitch:
1. The ball size (2 5/16 for the Airstreams)
2. The frame size (choices are 3 to 4 inches, 4 3/8 inches, 5 to 6 inches, and 8 inches)
3. The need for a drop shank. Choices are 4" drop/rise or 8" drop rise.

AWCHIEF · 07-17-2012, 02:42 PM

Not all Airstreams are 2 5/16, my Bambi II is 2 inch ball. Also it is good to know how long a chain you will need. They added 2 extra links to both sides of mine when it was spec'ed out so that I could clear the gas bottles without having to move them. I would recommend even if buying thru a third party to give Andersen a call and talk about what you need for your specific combination. Great people to work with and very open with information and advice.

idroba · 07-17-2012, 07:42 PM

I was playing around with the hitch and stinger this afternoon. I now wonder if the reason Andersen does not specify lube on the ball is related in any way to the fact that the friction material in the ball socket might get lube on it if the ball were over lubed. it could easily happen especially if you were sloppy or put too much on. It might have something to do with the "no lube needed" part of Andersen's instructions. I am still applying a very small amount of lube to the ball when it is hooked up, and removing it with a paper towel when I unhitch.

We are still learning, huh?

HowieE · 07-17-2012, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idroba

I was playing around with the hitch and stinger this afternoon. I now wonder if the reason Andersen does not specify lube on the ball is related in any way to the fact that the friction material in the ball socket might get lube on it if the ball were over lubed. it could easily happen especially if you were sloppy or put too much on. It might have something to do with the "no lube needed" part of Andersen's instructions. I am still applying a very small amount of lube to the ball when it is hooked up, and removing it with a paper towel when I unhitch.

We are still learning, huh?

WHY? If you see the reason why not to why would you do something that is unnecessary?

Given the all lubes migrate, especially down hill, I think your reason is a good one.

AirHeadsRus · 07-17-2012, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Joe, glad to hear you are liking the hitch. I still have not had a chance to hook up to my new F150 and readjust the Andersen hitch set up. I think the Ford hitch is only about an inch or so higher than the Xterra. I hope I don't have to buy a new shank and the four inch one I have will still work. Hopefully this weekend I can get out for a couple of days. I need a little lake and woods time.
PS: Just got off the phone with Amy at Andersen and the cost of a new longer shank is $90. Hopefully I will not need it.

Michael,
Mine is a 4 inch and works fine as far as I can tell. I would think yours would as well.
Joe

idroba · 07-17-2012, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

WHY? If you see the reason why not to why would you do something that is unnecessary?

Given the all lubes migrate, especially down hill, I think your reason is a good one.

Howie: The first hookup I made without grease, and I had just cleaned the coupler of grease so it was a totally dry fit. When I unhitched, there was obvious metal to metal contact and it just looked harsh on the ball. It even appeared to me to have a slight amount of galling. Although the ball does not rotate in the normal way, there still is that small movement caused by the side to side roll, and the pitch of the TV vs. the Trailer. I think that movement deserves a tiny amount of lube on the ball. When I have subsequently hooked up and used the hitch, that lube made the small gaul appearing marks I got on the first hookup smooth out.

Like your find that a very small amount of lube applied to the triangular plate hole, and not called for in the instructions, sometimes users can find better solutions after working with the product. I chose to use a very small amount of white grease on the ball and take it off with a paper towel when unhitching. I think it helps rather than dry metal to metal contact from the top of the ball to the coupler cup, and from the rear latch of the coupler to the ball rear face.

For now, that is what I am doing. I might change my mind later. Remember, it is a very small amount of lube I am using and it is not a fluid, like oil. It will not get into the friction material, but overuse of lube could. I think Andersen may be concerned about that issue, and thus does not call for lube on the ball at all.

purman · 07-18-2012, 01:51 AM

Put on the Andersen today. I ran into one problem. My propane bottle holder is welded under the frame and was in the way. That gave me two choices: cut part of the tank holder out. Or move the mounts forward and take out some links. I chose to take out links. I would still have clearance issues with the tanks even if I cut part of the bracket away. I ended up taking three links out. The directions say this is ok.

I also drill a part way hole for the set screw to sit on.

You can see in one of the pictures lines I drew where I wanted to set the bracket.

Rich of SCal · 07-18-2012, 04:45 PM

This is definitely worth a look. My current system, a Reese dual cam, works fine, but so many heavy parts to store when I unhook! I also need to get a lower drop, as my AS is tilting back some when towed. My tv is a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited so I need a long shank to clear the spare. Do they offer that thru Andersen?

AWCHIEF · 07-18-2012, 05:40 PM

Rich: Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch

Check out their site and then give them a call with specific questions for your trailer/TV combination.

Rich of SCal · 07-18-2012, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Rich: Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch

Check out their site and then give them a call with specific questions for your trailer/TV combination.

Thanks, I did check their site. Those shanks don't look long enough. Didn't someone here say they ordered a longer one?

I will probably call them when I get my measurements in order.

idroba · 07-18-2012, 07:30 PM

I ordered a higher/lower one (8"), not longer. It has a pretty short stinger, but works fine on my Grand Cherokee. The liftgate opens fine, Of course yours may be very different.

purman · 07-21-2012, 07:47 PM

Well, I have put 1200 miles on the Andersen Hitch in 3 days. AND I LOVE IT. Now given I had a valley WD with a friction sway control.

The Hook up is cake and I don't dread taking it off. I have just been loosening the nut as I then don't have to jake the trail up then down then up again. I'm in 7 threads and it takes a few seconds to tighten or loosen them.

The rubber washer/gaskets on the chains take out a lot of the bumps that my other WD didn't. It is a much smother ride. Also There has been no sway what so ever. It seems like the trailer and SUV are one unit. I came through the Columbia Gorge with 20-30 mph side and head winds. I saw motor homes all over the road towing cars. I got pushed around but no swaying of the trailer. Very stable.

With no bars backing up is a breeze, and I don't worry about how far I am turning.
Also no banging or creaking.

There is some wear on the ball but on the sides and top a little on the back. I will post pics on that later. But it would seem to me to be expected wtih little movement and no grease.

So far I love it.

I did have one problem. My brackets on the bottom moved about 1/4 inch. I even drilled tap holes for the tap screws. When I get to my folks place in Washington I will either drill holes for them to screw into or weld the brackets in place. not sure yet, anyone do either?

So I have all positive and no negatives so far. We have about another 1500 - 2000 miles left on this 3 week trip. Will keep everyone posted.

AWCHIEF · 07-21-2012, 08:53 PM

My brackets also moved maybe 1/4 in. I asked Dave Andersen about it and he said it would not effect the operation. So I have not bothered to redo them. I have over 3500 miles on the hitch so far and it continues to work perfectly and as advertised.

purman · 07-21-2012, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

My brackets also moved maybe 1/4 in. I asked Dave Andersen about it and he said it would not effect the operation. So I have not bothered to redo them. I have over 3500 miles on the hitch so far and it continues to work perfectly and as advertised.

Ok, the one thing I did notice as I get 7 threads the socket is not much deeper. it would seem you cold only get maybe 9 before you need a deeper socket. And they are made by Andersen by the looks of them. i might have to pull an extra 1/2 thread to make up that 1/4 inch move.