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dznf0g · 08-28-2013, 08:44 PM

Hey Rich, Instead of making a mess with sealer, I got some stainless self tapping bolts to fill old hitch holes. I think it looks more "industrial" and plain old better. Doesn't look like a patch. I did use sealer on the threads to keep rust at bay a little longer.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-29-2013, 12:47 AM

Hi, why not just weld the extra holes closed?

Rich of SCal · 08-29-2013, 06:30 AM

Both good suggestions but (A) I'm running out of time and have prevailed upon my neighbor (in the 100 degree heat) long enough and (B) half the holes are on the side with the umbilical cord running through it, which I already had to replace after making some of those holes. I have the sealer and the paint and 6 holes. Should be nice and dry inside with all this heat and I just want keep it that way.

Rendrag · 08-29-2013, 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich of SCal

...snip.........Rendag, I have asked around and no one I talked to locally seems to know where a "farm store" is that would add links. I don't really want to add 3 shackles, or a shackle and 2 links. Nor do I want a link that is only squeezed closed, but not welded. So the simplest approach seemed to be to move the brackets forward. Of course "simplest" doesn't mean easy. ...snip..............

Sorry if I confused. Any construction/industrial supply house can provide extension or coupler links that are as strong or stronger than the original chain. Lots easier than moving brackets. I looked some up on Grainger to verify this.

polarlyse · 08-29-2013, 07:46 AM

Hey Rich, If you're worried about moisture and rust maybe get some spray stuff to put inside the frame before sealing the holes. Readily available in spray cans with applicator wand from most auto supply stores. Some of the better ones come as a waxy mist that sticks and repels moisture.

I too plan to install the QB coupler. I have one ready to go just haven't gotten to the welder yet. Still up in the air though about coupling and uncoupling at angles. Seems to happen to me often enough to make me think about it.

Rich of SCal · 08-29-2013, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Hey Rich, If you're worried about moisture and rust maybe get some spray stuff to put inside the frame before sealing the holes. Readily available in spray cans with applicator wand from most auto supply stores. Some of the better ones come as a waxy mist that sticks and repels moisture.

I too plan to install the QB coupler. I have one ready to go just haven't gotten to the welder yet. Still up in the air though about coupling and uncoupling at angles. Seems to happen to me often enough to make me think about it.

Not really worried about moisture. It's pretty dry out here most of the time. Just didn't want to seal any in, but that won't be a problem right now since it has been so hot for some time.

Re: backing and hitching at an angle. Now that I have hitched a few times, you may have a point. I'm not as sure as I was that it would be easy to do. I haven't really had to back up at an angle in my travels so far, so I'm not worried about it, but if you do, then maybe you should look at something else.

polarlyse · 08-30-2013, 06:54 AM

I'm prepared to still give it a go. I will then have to be more conscious of how and where I park and unhitch. I just didn't need to worry much about it before. I guess it will make me have to think about it. Thanx for sharing your experiences.

PS: I do have to worry about moisture out here so I think along those lines. Think rust and the northeast, Happy Together.

Rich of SCal · 08-30-2013, 11:07 PM

Well I made it to the mountains, out of the heat, through the rain and into the cold. It towed like a dream. Now to sleep. All is well.

**Stefrobrts** · 08-31-2013, 12:57 AM

I'm curious to hear more about how hitching at angles effects the QB. I don't see why it should be a problem.

ttbikes · 08-31-2013, 06:57 AM

My experience with the QB is it works best coming straight at it with the TV but a little angle is fine. It is much easier to use the alignment poles when the TV is centered and parallel to the trailer. I have never been in a place where I could not align in this manner. Unhitching at an angle happens much more offten but my TV has always pulled away smoothly. However unhitching with the Anderson hitch at too big an angle requires rotating the hitch ball before reattaching the TV so when the plate that the chains are attached to is installed, both of the chains will reach and can be tightened properly. I realign the hitch ball by placing the bar through the pin hole at the bottom hitch ball and then rotating the ball to the proper alignment before reattaching to the TV.

polarlyse · 08-31-2013, 06:17 PM

Hey TT. The angle issue with the Anderson should really not be much concern. If it so happens that you find you can't easily align the triangle plate to connect the chains there's no reason you can't attach to the ball and pull forward until your vehicle and trailer are in straight alignment. Raise the jack and attach the chains. I do it all the time, as needed that is. It only takes a few minutes.

ttbikes · 09-01-2013, 05:35 AM

Thanks Roger. Sometimes I am in a hurry and just want to hit the road. Also sometimes I will wait and do the last few thread turns once I am level and straight. Probably does not make ant difference but it feels like it tightens more evenly. It has been nothing but "all good" for me with the Anderson. I am within 80 lbs of equal weight distribution at 8 treads and one person in the front seat. I am towing the Tradewind with 2013 Nissan Pathfinder. Towed in high winds, rain, snow, mountains, the steep grades of Osarks without any problems.

polarlyse · 09-01-2013, 07:21 AM

If I can't get enough weight to the front I ask my wife to sit on the hood. Works great.
Actually with my 1T pickup I don't feel it's so critical as with a lighter vehicle. I have not spent too much time adjusting the brackets yet. I was going to wait until after I get the QB coupler installed. But in the meantime with my setup 5 or 6 threads works nicely for me. Last time out I guess I left my ratchet w/anderson socket on the bumper and drove off loosing it. Just my luck. When it was time to leave I managed to get it tight enough using my channel lock pliers. I've added a box wrench to my tools in case it happens again. I need to contact AH and get a new socket.

Glad you're having good results. So am I.

**Stefrobrts** · 09-01-2013, 10:00 AM

Do you have to adjust the bolts every time you hook up? I had envisioned just getting it set right and after that just jacking up the tongue enough to attach the plate.

idroba · 09-01-2013, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stefrobrts

Do you have to adjust the bolts every time you hook up? I had envisioned just getting it set right and after that just jacking up the tongue enough to attach the plate.

If you have the original Andersen model, which does not have the large C ring on the bottom to keep the ball and it's shank from coming out of the tapered part on the hitch, it is not good to try to lift the system with the jack to attach the plate as it can suddenly drop out. That can be exciting to say the least, and possibly dangerous.

The new Andersen's all have a large C clip and channel it locks in, so the ball cannot come out of the socket when it is lifted with the tongue jack.

So, don't do it with the older ones (like mine) and should be no problem with the newer ones with the C clip.

polarlyse · 09-02-2013, 09:43 AM

I find it easy to just undo the nuts and drop the chains. Have not tried any other way so far. I wasn't aware that modifications have been made to prevent the ball shaft from pulling out but that's a real + in my opinion. I'll have to look to see if mine has that. I got it last Sep / Oct so we'll see. Thanks for letting me know about that.

ttbikes · 09-02-2013, 10:49 AM

I have always loosened the chains also (which is no problem). I guess I am not sure what we are talking about. Don't the chains put pressure on the back of the ball at the point of the hitch so ball turns with hitch and trailer. Seems to me this make you loosen the chains to unhook. What I am I missing?

idroba · 09-02-2013, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttbikes

I have always loosened the chains also (which is no problem). I guess I am not sure what we are talking about. Don't the chains put pressure on the back of the ball at the point of the hitch so ball turns with hitch and trailer. Seems to me this make you loosen the chains to unhook. What I am I missing?

If you jack up the trailer with the chains at their normal tension, it will loosen them (just as jacking up a trailer with a conventional WD hitch) to the point that the pin can be removed from the bottom of the Andersen hitch and the plate dropped off. So, you don't have to change the position of the large nuts.

However, if you do that with an original Andersen, there is a possibility of the ball and tapered shank coming out of the socket. That sudden separation is not fun or good. The new Andersen hitches have a C ring at the bottom of the ball/tapered shaft, right above the pin hole, which prevents that from happening.

The original directions did not want you to lift the trailer with the hitch jack, to remove the plate, but people did it anyway, resulting in the sudden separation occurring. Andersen modified the hitch with the C ring so it would not happen on the new hitches.

I personally find it very easy to simply loosen the large nuts with the tongue jack only set to hold the trailer level on my older Andersen hitch. But it now is possible to do it either way if you have a newer model.

ttbikes · 09-02-2013, 12:33 PM

Guess I will see if I have the c ring. Although loosening is not a problem. Always goog to have options. Thanks.

Rich of SCal · 09-02-2013, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarlyse

Hey TT. The angle issue with the Anderson should really not be much concern. If it so happens that you find you can't easily align the triangle plate to connect the chains there's no reason you can't attach to the ball and pull forward until your vehicle and trailer are in straight alignment. Raise the jack and attach the chains. I do it all the time, as needed that is. It only takes a few minutes.

That was my exact experience today when leaving my campsite. Because I had backed in at an angle the plate was so off that I could only hook up one chain. So I pulled forward and turned my jeep sharply to that side, which straightened the plate. I didn't bother putting down the tongue jack again. Just tightened the chains and I was off.

MY OTHER ISSUE IN UNHITCHING AT AN ANGLE: was completely different, however. When I backed at an angle, I was also positioned side to side diffently than my airstream, because of uneven ground. I could not get the qb metal strap to come up until I leveled the trailer side to side by about 4 inches. I used a BAL wheel lifter, which worked great. So when I unhitched, I made sure to leave the BAL on the wheel until I got connected. But backing into the qb at an angle was never the problem. Seems to be fine doing that.