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Old 03-17-2013, 10:20 AM   #1555
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Doug, That looks just like the coupler on our trailer, and guess what.....I can't find manufacturer or model number either.

However, I think it's one of the Atwoods, and if the rod goes down into the coupler when it is hitched, the lever slides rearward when locked, I'm almost possitive it's the Atwood, but of course, don't know the model no.

At this point, I would be very leary of using the Andersen with any coupler that has a pawl that slides down to lock, because the force applied to the coupler by the Andersen is back and up....just the direction of force required to break the latching "sharkfin" lock, provided the force is great enough.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:45 AM   #1556
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Steve, it's hard for me to imagine this coupler is safe for any hard braking situations if it's not safe for use with Andersen hitch, because the force is similar on the coupler for both.

Are we looking at an Andersen hitch problem, Atwood coupler problem, compatibility problem, worn-out coupler problem, or no problem at all?

I can't find a problem on my setup at this point, but I'm keeping an eye on it.

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Old 03-17-2013, 11:24 AM   #1557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afneill View Post
In an attempt to preclude further wear on the fin catch and an eventual shearing possibility, I have welded it to the end so that in essence the pressure is transferred to the latch itself.
.
Can you elaborate on this a bit more as to where you weld what?

As for the number of those posting here have changed out there coupling it is more than 2 of us and another one is scheduled for tomorrow.

Keep in mind if you are putting on a new coupler position it to SAVE the lower jack stand hole rather than cutting that plate off and rewelding it. This insures no problem with the gas tanks. Post #1396 shows this in detail
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:58 AM   #1558
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Details of this are shown on post #1396 and #1415
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Old 03-17-2013, 12:35 PM   #1559
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Howie,
As soon as I get the opportunity, I will post a photo showing the weld. Have all those who have or are replacing the coupler done so because the fin catch has sheared off? Or have some done so as a preventative measure? Also do you know the condition or age of the coupler they replaced?
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:08 PM   #1560
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Can't say for all that have posted as some of those posting here did so before I had my problem. I know of 4 that have replaced their couplers with QBs because of the shark fin shearing off.
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #1561
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Attached is the photo I promised. First, no comments on my welding. As you can see my primary welding tool is a good grinder. I wish we had a listing of all the Andersen hitch users on this forum, along with the size of their trailer, tow vehicle, make and model of coupler they have, etc. Maybe a pattern could be established for their success or failure or problems.Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0729.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	217.0 KB
ID:	181225
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:21 PM   #1562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afneill View Post
Attached is the photo I promised. First, no comments on my welding. As you can see my primary welding tool is a good grinder. I wish we had a listing of all the Andersen hitch users on this forum, along with the size of their trailer, tow vehicle, make and model of coupler they have, etc. Maybe a pattern could be established for their success or failure or problems.Attachment 181225
The way that is welded, there is no longer a latch. BIG Problem!
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:28 PM   #1563
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Wrong. While you cannot see it in the photograph, the latch still makes contact in the same place with the same area it did prior to the welding. The weld only holds the fin by the sides to prevent upward movement if pressure from the latch occurs. The weld is only on the sides and not on the front of the fin.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:32 PM   #1564
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Wrong. While you cannot see it in the photograph, the latch still makes contact in the same place with the same area it did prior to the welding. The weld only holds the fin by the sides to prevent upward movement if pressure from the latch occurs. The weld is only on the sides and not on the front of the fin.
Wrong, or not, but from looking at your picture, the latch portion of the "shark fin" is welded to the coupler. If not, perhaps you should show a better picture.
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:48 PM   #1565
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Steve, I am not going to argue the point with you nor defend the quality of my photography. Howie asked about the weld and I put on the picture so he could see it. Trust me, the weld only goes down the sides of the fin and the latch makes the same contact in the same way in the same area it did prior to the welding. I am only trying to add strength to the fin so it will not be sheared off from any pressure it receives.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #1566
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afneill, nor am I trying to "argue". I'm just stating what I see in the photograph.

If I see it, most likely others see it. I would think you would not want to represent something that is not correct in the picture, but so be it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:28 PM   #1567
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I don't know how the Atwood coupler works. But on the Marvel coupler the pawl is raised up to lock onto the ball when latched. NOT LOWERED.
I have posted a number of photos of the pawl in position when latched on the Marvel coupler. Unless the coupler socket split open, there is no way the pawl could get around the ball to a point where it would allow the hitch to uncouple.
Perhaps the difference is in the weight rating of the Marvel. I have a Marvel coupler on the 26' Argosy. This coupler is rated at 20,000 pounds. It is clearly stamped in the plate on top, next to the tongue jack. The Argosy has a GVWR of 6200 pounds.
I also have a Marvel coupler on my utility trailer. It is rated at 30,000 pounds. It came off of an old 12'x 65' mobil home.
Both Marvel couplers are identical in their construction. There is NO SHARK FIN and never has been one on either of these couplers.
I have recent pics of the pawl and ball positioned in the coupler. I will post them when I get on the desktop.
My TV is a 2008 Tundra, 5.7L V8, Double Cab. Standard 6.5' box. I do have Firestone air bags on the rear axle, which I run @ 20 psi when hitched.
The loaded tongue weight of the Argosy is 700 pounds.
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:54 PM   #1568
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Pics of Marvel coupler

this is the way the Marvel is built. No Shark Fin. But unlike this latch the pawl is raised not lowered to lock onto the ball.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...plodedView.png

Showing pawl seated on the ball.


http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...landText-1.png

Clear picture without the text.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...lLocked2-1.jpg

Pawl in the UNLOCKED ready to hitch position.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_2642.jpg

Pawl in the latched position without the ball in place.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_2646.jpg

IF THE PAWL IS NOT IN THE POSITION SHOWN WHEN READY TO HITCH, THE BALL WILL NOT GO INTO THE COUPLER.

Hope this helps clear a few things up when comparing the Atwood to the Marvel coupler.
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