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Old 03-11-2013, 06:14 PM   #1527
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The area, about 3/8 in. width at the horizontal center of the jaws where the opening spring is, it is over 1/8 in. thick. The rest of the back of the jaw goes from 1/2 in thick to 3/4 in. thick as you follow the curve outwards 90 degrees to either side. That is 4 or 5 times the thickness of an Atwood coupler at the point of wear, top and forward. And remember the is minimal movement between the coupler and the ball while using the Andersen.

Unless they have greatly reduced the properties of steel this should not be a question.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #1528
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What are the jaws made from? In the pictures, they look cast, and if so, I wonder from what.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:48 PM   #1529
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It is not what I am trying to say but rather what I am asking. I have a Diesel Excursion and a 34 ft trailer and can not see how the things you are seeing are possible. The QB is a steel jawed devise with the jaws held in place by pins. In order for there to be migration forward one would have to see the pins shear off and allow the jaws to slip rearward or some visible wear on the ball or jaw sockets of the QB. If either of these is the case please post a picture and we will have a new point of concern to discuss.

As for weights. My truck weighs in with 4220 on the front axle, 4200 on the back axle. This is while I am in the truck with a 100 lbs tool box and 150 lbs of wood at the rear. Hooked up without the Andersen loaded the front axle is 3920, the rear is 5120 the trailer is 8080 for a total of 17200. Most of the wood was out as these weights were taken on the way home from a weekend out. With the Andersen hooked up the front axle is 4040, the rear is 5000, and the trailer is 8180. Some of the trailer weight was that I had not dumped sewer.

Yes that is 800 lbs added to the rear when hitched but below the 5250 max. rear axle weight. While the front axle is not back to unloaded weight the Andersen has moved 120 lbs forward. Yes I could tighten up on the Andersen more but I see no reason to. My truck is four wheel drive and thus has leaf springs. The steering geometry is not effected by that slight difference in front axle load.
Howie,
Your scale numbers give me hope that I may be able to achieve the WD I need. I believe the one time I weighed without the TT, I had the family and bikes in the rear of the X. I believe I was at 4,400 lbs on the rear and 3820lbs on the front.
With the Anderson, the best readings I was able to get was 5960 on the rear and 3500 on the front. Gross weight was 17720 with about 1,150 TW according to the sherline.
I have no idea where the slip is coming from. Possibly a defective quick bite??
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:06 PM   #1530
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mrad

What are you towing? That tongue weight is well above any Airstream I have come across.

Things that might change the original tongue weight are miss loading froward of a trailer, poor front trailer axle on a 2 axle trailer, or the trailer, Airstream, is riding tongue high.

If a scale is handy consider straddling the trailer axles over different plates to make sure the rear axle is not carrying the bulk of the trailer load. If that is the case the tongue weight would be higher than original.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:28 PM   #1531
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In 2011 the ship weight was 8,200 lbs with a dry tongue weight of around 1,000 lbs.
It does have a rear storage rack where I store coolers and other heavier objects to remove tongue weight.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:43 PM   #1532
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mrad

What are you towing? That tongue weight is well above any Airstream I have come across.
Howie, Just an FYI here, but I weighed the tongue of a club member's 34' SO a while back and it was above 1300 pounds, and he uses a Easy Lift hitch.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:58 PM   #1533
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Questions for those who cannot transfer enough weight with the Andersen:

Are you tensioning the chains with the tongue jack down and tongue weight off the hitch ball?

What is the limiting element, why can't you just adjust the drop bar lower on your truck, raise the tongue jack to take weight off the hitch ball, and tension the chains until the trailer is level and the desired weight is transferred (after the tongue jack is raised)?

doug k
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:26 PM   #1534
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I couple the trailer to the ball and lock the coupler with no weight on the TV. Then I raise the trailer tongue and TV about 2" and tighten the chains until I measure 3" between the outside edge of the black washer (welded to the square tube) and the inside edge of the silver washer on the other end of the bushing. In other words the 3" bushing is compressed to 2 13/16".
I don't use the thread count since the coupler is not square with the trailer. It is of center about 1/4".
Once the chains are tightened equally, I raise the tongue jack.
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Old 03-13-2013, 08:09 PM   #1535
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Andersen with QuickBite

Would any of you who have installed a QB with or without an Andersen please measure the width of the back of the coupler - inside dimension and let me know. Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:52 PM   #1536
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I couple the trailer to the ball and lock the coupler with no weight on the TV. Then I raise the trailer tongue and TV about 2" and tighten the chains until I measure 3" between the outside edge of the black washer (welded to the square tube) and the inside edge of the silver washer on the other end of the bushing. In other words the 3" bushing is compressed to 2 13/16".
I don't use the thread count since the coupler is not square with the trailer. It is of center about 1/4".
Once the chains are tightened equally, I raise the tongue jack.
I don't count threads either when tensioning the chains, but also measure compression of the urethane bushings. Probably more accurate and repeatable.

Using your tensioning method, which sounds excellent and in accordance with instructions, do you get the weight transfer (or wheel well measurements) you are looking for ?

doug k
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:25 AM   #1537
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Andersen and the Atwood (Marvel) coupler

The plot thickens. I looked at my coupler on my 2002 Classic are there were no manufacturing markings on it at all. I measured the width on the back of the coupler and it was 10-3/8. Based on specs from Atwood, this is a Marvel 88010. Since Atwood bought out Marvel, the specs refer to it as an Atwood 88010. You cannot use an Andersen WD hitch with this coupler due to the design of the paw/shank/shark fin. I contacted Andersen and asked them about returns and they said I would have to contact the company where I bought it to see about their return policy. Unless you bought the Andersen from Andersen, it appears that they have washed their hands on any compensation.

For anyone who bought a Quickbite, would you please measure the width of the back of the coupler (inside dimension) . I cannot find any dealer that has one in stock that will do that for me
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:38 AM   #1538
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Howie:
Since the Atwood (Marvel) 88010 rear measures 10-3/8" and the Atwood 81911 (Andersen preferred coupler) measures 10-7/8" can I weld a 1/4" plate on each side of the A frame to compensate for the 1/2" difference and weld the 91911 at the same location of the 88010?
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:16 AM   #1539
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Hey Larry, that sounds as if it would work for me but if you plan to have it done by an outside welder check with them and see if they would do a modification like that. If I was doing it myself I don't think I would have an issue with it.
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Old 03-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #1540
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quickbite

Several questions have arisen about QuickBite in the past sixty or so posts. I thought I could help a little. We were very early adopters of QuickBite coupler, bought it May 2008, installed it same week. Saw this hitch on a friend's airstream and he claimed it grabbed the ball more securely.

We have towed over sixty thousand miles so far with our quick bite coupler with Equal-i-zer hitch. We've been in almost every kind of conditions in that period, from Del Ray Florida to Fairbanks Alaska. No mechanical problems, no "gee I wish it was just a little different" in any way. This is the setup for us.

At end of first year, QuickBite asked if we would give them the original jaws for analysis. They sent us a new pair of jaws and new pair of pivot pins (the spare pins are still in my parts box, I'll probably never need them.) QB wanted to see how the stainless steel jaws were holding up with a trailer in full-time use. Like Andy said a few posts ago, you want to see a company interested in re-examining their product and trying to improve it. We appreciated it.

FloridaLarry, I wish you could have seen mine at FSR but know you were darned busy with the great job you and Vic did on the rally. Thanks for all your hard and successful work. You ask, what's the jaws thickness at the back of the coupler? There is no jaw for maybe 100 degrees at the back -- that's where the jaws open too so they have to have some cutaway to allow hinging open.

Lest this raise concerns with some of you -- It is hard to imagine how completely the quickbite envelopes the ball. I put a light coating of grease on my ball every week. After a towing day I pull the hitch out of the coupler. The grease is smoothly distributed around the entire ball, very thin coating still and very even.

Several folks have suggested a ball might creep forward from a QB. Could the gap between the coupler and the hitchhead could be attributed to the QB? No way. The jaws are locked completely closed by the large bail that slams down when the ball hits the back of the jaws. There's just no slop in the ball-coupling interface in any direction. The QB jaws are squeezed around the ball strongly and snugly.

The jaws and pivot pins are stainless steel. Mine have become polished-looking after very nearly four years (on this set of jaws) and approx 48,000 miles wear. My trailer tongue weight is 1,050 pounds, within the 10-15% range for my weighs. I have a CURT class V after-market receiver on my 2500HD 4X4 Silverado. I'm using 1,000# bars on the Equalizer, installed new on this trailer in 2006.

And yes, we occasionally pop rivets on rough roads. Our priority is in having the truck's wheels loaded on the road and the trailer level. If the front wheels are underloaded then, according to conventional weight distribution guidelines, I don't have the required control of steering and braking. If the receiver isn't transferring the load, but is flexing, then also the Equalizer's friction sway control is reduced.

When, a few years ago, I couldn't bring the truck's front end down to spec (at least halfway between unloaded and loaded measures taken without weight distribution), I realized the oem receiver was beginning to flex. I was no longer getting weight transfer to the truck's front axle. New Curt 1508 receiver took care of this completely.

Any who are interested can see picture of QB on my registry page on AirForums or go to my website to the improvements page. Interest in particular other view or any other truck or trailer photos, let me know and I can post or email to you.

Hope this has helped in some small way.
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