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Old 06-08-2012, 04:08 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
I will have my Andersen delivered next week. I will have to take it to the scales to set it up properly as my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee has full 4 corner self leveling air suspension and I cannot judge the weight transfer by the rise or drop of the TV body. The Jeep Air Suspension system masks that.
We have a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the same air suspension. For the first adjustment on first hooking up the trailer, we cancelled the self-leveling (see your car's instruction book) and adjusted the bars on our Hensley as usual and could see the effect on the car's suspension. With that adjustment of the bars, there was (and is) no lightening of the steering to indicate a lack of weight being transferred to the front wheels. We previously had a 2006 Grand Cherokee, so had a good idea of the effect the adjusted spring bars would have on the new car with a similar rear overhang.

I don't mean to discourage you from checking your Andersen hitch on scales. That is always a good idea, but may not be absolutely necessary.

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Old 06-08-2012, 05:33 PM   #142
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It was time to replace

I took my Hensley off this afternoon and look what I found. I'm not sure when this happened but it must have been recently. I had replaced the inner sleeve for the bars last year and did not see the split if it was there. The sleeve had cracked in the middle where the bolt runs thru it.
I suppose the whole bottom part of the hitch head would need replacing.
Must have been a lot of stress on it. No matter, the Hensley does not owe me anything. It was 14 years old when I got it and probably had 300,000 miles on it. I have around 18,000 and three years. Even busted, it did its job.
I'm looking for the Andersen to do its job as well.
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:54 PM   #143
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Wow.. good find. Everything wears out. Glad you were nudged to inspect and/or replace.

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Old 06-09-2012, 08:01 AM   #144
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Dave said they try to stay off the forums as it can become a full time job. But if you have a question the number is on their web page.
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Old 06-09-2012, 06:51 PM   #145
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Red' I'm not into numbers and scales. I use an Equal-I-Zer whose maker only gives fender measurements as a set-up procedure. No matter how I loaded, where I am, I can walk out with my tape and see if it still is decent. Fifth wheel pullers don't use any weight distribution, but we don't pull off the road when we see them coming. I carry loads in my truck and car without weight distribution, no choice.

I respect those who dial in perfect numbers each load but you make it sound like everyone who doesn't (most) is negligent. Less-than-perfect is how things go most of the time.

doug k
Each load? No, the point is to have the combination dialled in quite well one time. That, alone, eliminates the majority of the range of any future adjustments for that combination rig. (In a manner similar to tire pressures). The difference between a lightly loaded weekend trip and an extended 6-month tour with bursting closets covers the anticipated range. I'd add full grey/black tanks one time as an experiment.

Once done with a range of readings one can easily change the links under tension, the screw threads open, or the jack height. Or, more or less head tilt. Record it. Have it at hand.

Measurements of height are easily prone to error. But are otherwise fine once the relationships are known . . and one only knows them from scale numbers in this instance. Tire pressure, weakened springs, etc, can change height measurements even when those other components are within spec.

Quit acting as if using a certified public scale is an expensive or difficult or time-consuming burden. It is far from any of those, much less in any combination. Perfection isn't the point. But that would be an impossibility for one who knows not where he starts.

I suppose we should also extend this lazy attitude to lug nut torque? Tire construction? Propane pressure? Well, seems fine to me.

I use an Equal-I-Zer whose maker only gives fender measurements as a set-up procedure.

Hitch rigging is a formula. Easy to follow and accomplish. That companys directions changed over the years. Care to venture why? Numbers confirm what height measurements only promise.

What any one individual does is beside the point. Yet to tout a WDH as the greatest thing slnce sliced bread isn't really helpful: let the thing speak for itself. First. As idroba has indicated that he will show this with his own rig, then the matter of how well an ANDERSEN does for a single rig is (will be) answered. Which is all that was asked . . a comprehensive single work-up.

On a WDH of any sort the most basic demonstration is that it do the job promised. This hitch is no exception. Numbers bypass personal shortcomings or predilections. Fully impersonal as would be the whole point.

Changes -- problems -- are then easily measured (would be the ostensible reason to have a "users thread") and diagnosis of problems of performance on-road can take the WDH into account in the only way possible. Which is numbers.

.
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:16 PM   #146
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Not lazy, just don't operate your way and do fine.

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Old 06-10-2012, 12:55 AM   #147
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Quote:
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Not lazy, just don't operate your way and do fine.

doug k
Hi, I use the same hitch and have never been on a scale.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:33 AM   #148
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I did weigh mine, but it was only because I needed a certified weight to get the trailer titled and licensed as I bought it out of state.

Not that it's all that important, but the weights were:

Front axle= 4100 lbs

Rear axle= 4150 lbs

Trailer axles= 7280 lbs

This was with a ProPride Hitch, 3/4 ton crew cab 4X4, and '10 31' Classic.

However, the important thing in my mind is the front fender measurment is the same with the trailer hooked up as without. :-)
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:56 AM   #149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Not lazy, just don't operate your way and do fine.

doug k
Ditto, well said.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:44 AM   #150
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Quote:
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Dave said they try to stay off the forums as it can become a full time job. But if you have a question the number is on their web page.
I know another manufacturer that says the same thing. This is false. I'm on every forum that will allow manufacturers to participate. EVERY forum. I spend about 15 minutes a day reviewing them. If you use today's technology properly it can be done.

I'm not saying this is the case with Anderson but some people just do not want a permanent record of what they say because they may be saying something else over the phone and not remember that they have posted the contrary on a forum.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:53 PM   #151
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I opened this tread as an "Andersen Users Thread" not an Andersen sales forum. While some of mine and other comments may be construed as promotional or negative I would hope they are results of actual experiences and a direct sales effort.

If you have an Andersen are considering an Andersen or have something relevant to the thread please present it.

We have gotten off topic hear discussion different levels of of arriving at the same result when it come to hitching up. That is good information for those interested in that discussion but should be limited to threads directed at that subject or a PM to another member.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:26 PM   #152
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HowieE,

Thanks for starting a discussion about this brand of hitch. It certainly has been interesting so far and I appreciate "owners comments" and from our high mileage multi decade Airstream owners comments both positive and negative. I certainly am not a high mileage AS'er only day outings so far to various campgrounds. I'm watching and hopefully learning a thing or two. One comment, using an actual friction material interface rather than steel vs. steel caught my eye. Can't say its best but steel vs. steel is a wear point, I see some wear on my Equal-I-Zer (included w/used trailer) steel to steel areas.
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Old 06-10-2012, 01:48 PM   #153
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The only place that I know of that uses steel on steel is the rail road. Since the shoes are easy to see I assume the just replace the shoes as needed. The temperatures reached while stopping a train would likely melt most brake shoe material.

Steel on steel also wear unevenly producing deep grooves because of differences in hardness. That would make removal a task in a tapered shaft.
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:08 PM   #154
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We have gotten off topic hear discussion different levels of of arriving at the same result when it come to hitching up. That is good information for those interested in that discussion but should be limited to threads directed at that subject or a PM to another member.

It works . . or it doesn't. Wear over a period of time/miles is a valid concern and with more than one component affected. And needs to be measured. Same for any mechanical device. Opinions lacking a basis in reality are hot air.

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