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Old 03-10-2013, 01:13 PM   #1513
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Some have called those of us who are actually using the Andersen hitch, "guinea-pigs". I don't feel that way at all and looked up what I think we really are. Here is how the dictionary describes us, "An early adopter is a person who embraces new technology before most other people do." Did I expect to be purchasing a device with twenty year's development behind it? No. Am I getting superior performance than I received out of my previous three conventional weight distributing hitches? Yes. I don't mind terribly if I have to tinker a little bit. I won't even cry if I have to throw the thing in the trash and return to yesterday's hitches. That's the price that some of us are willing to pay.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:39 PM   #1514
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Originally Posted by Rendrag View Post
Some have called those of us who are actually using the Andersen hitch, "guinea-pigs". I don't feel that way at all and looked up what I think we really are. Here is how the dictionary describes us, "An early adopter is a person who embraces new technology before most other people do." Did I expect to be purchasing a device with twenty year's development behind it? No. Am I getting superior performance than I received out of my previous three conventional weight distributing hitches? Yes. I don't mind terribly if I have to tinker a little bit. I won't even cry if I have to throw the thing in the trash and return to yesterday's hitches. That's the price that some of us are willing to pay.
You are absolutely right! And those who resist new technology are know as "Luddites", named after Edward/Ned Ludd who tried to preserve hand weaving instead of using the new-fangled looms. Had he and his followers succeeded we would be handwriting this stuff with a pencil on our computers, lol.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:41 PM   #1515
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I own and use an Andersen WD hitch, although it's used with a small trailer and a small tow vehicle, and it's working great.

However, after reading all of the issues with couplers used with the Andersen and larger, heavier trailers, it is my opinion that using the Andersen with ANY coupler that has a pawl that slides DOWN to couple to the ball, is an accident waiting to happen.

By the way, this was my concern that I voiced in the very first part of this thread about the coupler not really being built to withstand the pressures and direction of pressure that is being applied to the coupler by the Andersen.

Hope you guys get it worked out, but at this point, I have my doubts it will ever happen with the Atwood and simular couplers.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:36 PM   #1516
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New products come about usually from someone that has a vision about the future.

Rarely when a new product such as the Anderson, be absolutely perfecy. It may be in it's design and local testing.

But, when it hits the public, a whole new not page, but book shows up.

A good company, works as best they can, to resolve the issues that may appear.

It appears to me, at least from the majority of posters, that the Anderson may have some issues, but that they are also working to resolve them.

In today's markets, it's tough to find a new company that is will to work with it's customers.

Anderson, has demonstrated, that they are more than willing to do so.

Give them some room and a chance to correct whatever issue's may seem to be.

I don't believe they entered the RV market, just to horse around and waste money and talent.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:26 AM   #1517
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I installed an Anderson WD anti sway hitch yesterday. The installation went pretty smooth.

I used the set screws for the frame brackets but found it just about impossible to tighten them as tight as the instructions recommend so I think I will use the "Optional Set Screw Installation" that is printed in the instructions (drill hole insert set screw).

After the installation I did a test tow. It towed GREAT! I even tried to make it sway and it was very stable. I had towed this trailer "naked" with just a ball and safety chains for about 50 miles on the Interstate just to get it home so I know what the difference feels like with and without the Anderson hitch. The truck and trailer now sit level too. I'm very satisfied with it.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:09 PM   #1518
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sandhill3000;
Be very careful when drilling into the tongue. That you don't get into the wiring.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:18 PM   #1519
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Atwood and Marvel

After spending an hour on the phone with a tech person at Atwood, I learned more about couplers than I ever wanted to know. However, he provided so much information that is helping to make my coupler/anderson decision.

I do not have an Atwood on my trailer. Like an idiot, I didn't look on the coupler to see the manufacturer. I took the word of AS that it was an Atwood. Well, it's a Marvel. Oh, by the way, Atwood bought Marvel. I have a Marvel 88010 and it has the shark fin design that has caused my problem with the Andersen eating the fin. All of the Atwood's have a different design and that is way Andersen has had success with the Atwood 81911/12. To see all the stats on couples, go to page 22 of the Atwood catalog [http://www.atwoodmobile.com/chassis-...-brochure.asp]. What I did find out is that none of the Atwood will fit my frame because the width of the Marvel 88010 at the rear is 10-3/8 where the Atwood 81911/12 is 10-7/8."

I guess I need to do more research, because the Andersen will not work with the Marvel.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:47 PM   #1520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post

"mrad" has stated he has seen a 1/2 displacement when using the Andersen but has not posted any pictures to support that. Since we are dealing with STEEL on STEEL between the ball and the jaws of the QB coupler that has a clearance measured in thousands when coupled I really have to question his comment.

Yes the clearance between the QB and Andersen is small and yes you might see contact if you have a combination of pieces both manufactured to larger limit of the tolerances. That contact conflict could be removed with slight grinding at the contact point.

You can see the clearance on my rig in the picture posted at #1474
Howie,
Not sure what you are trying to say. That I am lying about the movement??
I am not sure the exact amount of movement. I did notice the the QB was coming in contact with shank in front of the ball. I then ground probably an 1/8"-1/4" of the front of the quick bite. On our 3,500 + mile trip last summer, I noticed the QB was getting very close to touching again.
No one wants this hitch to work more than I do. I am not fond of having to back to an equalizer or dropping $2000 for a pull pride.

I also have some cat scale weights that are a bit concerning. With the Andersen hooked up, I am still getting about 5,900 lbs on my rear axle of my excursion. I have talked to others on the FTE forum who have excursion and a 1000+lbs of tongue weight and they are having the same difficulties.
TT will be coming out of winter storage soon, and I will be contacting Andersen for some help in setting it up properly. Hoping I will be able to remove another 200lbs off the rear axle.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:12 PM   #1521
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Sandhill,
When I installed my Andersen hitch, I only used the set screws. To get them seated to the depth on the instructions I used a 3 foot long piece of 3/4 galvanized pipe as a cheater bar. Although I have only towed about 1000 miles with it, no movement has occurred as of yet. When you live in an oil producing area, your never use less than a 24 inch cheater on anything you are tightening. Even a scope mount.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:39 PM   #1522
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I drilled the upper side of the bracket and my frame and installed bolts. I drilled a pilot hole for the lower set screws slightly smaller than the set screws themselves. The brackets have not moved a bit. I would never use a long bar on a set screw that size, could strip/weaken the threads or bend out the bracket.

When drilling the frame, looking under and back of the coupler you can see and move the wires inside the frame so you don't drill into them.

doug k
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:01 PM   #1523
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Howie,
Not sure what you are trying to say. That I am lying about the movement??
I am not sure the exact amount of movement. I did notice the the QB was coming in contact with shank in front of the ball. I then ground probably an 1/8"-1/4" of the front of the quick bite. On our 3,500 + mile trip last summer, I noticed the QB was getting very close to touching again.
No one wants this hitch to work more than I do. I am not fond of having to back to an equalizer or dropping $2000 for a pull pride.

I also have some cat scale weights that are a bit concerning. With the Andersen hooked up, I am still getting about 5,900 lbs on my rear axle of my excursion. I have talked to others on the FTE forum who have excursion and a 1000+lbs of tongue weight and they are having the same difficulties.
TT will be coming out of winter storage soon, and I will be contacting Andersen for some help in setting it up properly. Hoping I will be able to remove another 200lbs off the rear axle.
It is not what I am trying to say but rather what I am asking. I have a Diesel Excursion and a 34 ft trailer and can not see how the things you are seeing are possible. The QB is a steel jawed devise with the jaws held in place by pins. In order for there to be migration forward one would have to see the pins shear off and allow the jaws to slip rearward or some visible wear on the ball or jaw sockets of the QB. If either of these is the case please post a picture and we will have a new point of concern to discuss.

As for weights. My truck weighs in with 4220 on the front axle, 4200 on the back axle. This is while I am in the truck with a 100 lbs tool box and 150 lbs of wood at the rear. Hooked up without the Andersen loaded the front axle is 3920, the rear is 5120 the trailer is 8080 for a total of 17200. Most of the wood was out as these weights were taken on the way home from a weekend out. With the Andersen hooked up the front axle is 4040, the rear is 5000, and the trailer is 8180. Some of the trailer weight was that I had not dumped sewer.

Yes that is 800 lbs added to the rear when hitched but below the 5250 max. rear axle weight. While the front axle is not back to unloaded weight the Andersen has moved 120 lbs forward. Yes I could tighten up on the Andersen more but I see no reason to. My truck is four wheel drive and thus has leaf springs. The steering geometry is not effected by that slight difference in front axle load.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:42 PM   #1524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
The QB is a steel jawed devise with the jaws held in place by pins. In order for there to be migration forward one would have to see the pins shear off and allow the jaws to slip rearward or some visible wear on the ball or jaw sockets of the QB. If either of these is the case please post a picture and we will have a new point of concern to discuss.
Unless the "jaws" of the Quickbite, which look rather thin in the pictures in the rear area, are distorting in the rear under the load the Andersen puts on them.

Must be thousands of pounds.
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:08 PM   #1525
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
sandhill3000;
Be very careful when drilling into the tongue. That you don't get into the wiring.
Amen to THAT!
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:12 PM   #1526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
I drilled the upper side of the bracket and my frame and installed bolts. I drilled a pilot hole for the lower set screws slightly smaller than the set screws themselves. The brackets have not moved a bit. I would never use a long bar on a set screw that size, could strip/weaken the threads or bend out the bracket.

When drilling the frame, looking under and back of the coupler you can see and move the wires inside the frame so you don't drill into them.

doug k
The 19' Bambi has a "C" frame so I can see any wires that run down the frame.
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