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Old 03-05-2013, 04:45 PM   #1471
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This may solve your rattle problem

Roadmaster Quiet Hitch Anti-Rattle Device Review - etrailer.com - YouTube
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:04 PM   #1472
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:19 AM   #1473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Here's a picture of the Quickbite closed that shows the void, or gap if you will, of the jaw material in the back when the hitch is closed around the ball. This is just the point where the Andersen weight distribution hitch applies the pressure to the ball to achieve weight distribution.
This may explain some of the problems I encountered. I would notice that after hitching up and and compressing the bushings, my trailer appeared to creep closer to the hitch shank. In fact, I started noticing that the very form of my quickbite had the paint wore off it and the hitch shank was showing signs of wear. When first hooked up, the quick bite has over 1/2" clearance from the shank. After arriving at some destinations, I was finding less than an 1/8" of clearance and was sure rubbing was occurring on turns. I ended up grinding about an additional 1/2" off the front of the quickbite to compensate.
Has anyone else with a quickbite experienced this issue?
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:20 AM   #1474
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Interesting question.
When I got home from my last trip I did notice the closeness of the Quickbite to the hitch. After your post I went out and hitched up in the drive. This picture shows the relationship just after hitching. Less than an 1/8 in. Even given this closeness there is no sign of contact between the Quickbite and the hitch after 900 miles.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Quickbite 001.jpg
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ID:	180326

I did not tow but did insert an extra ball just to see if there was room for any movement. A 2 5/16 ball has less than 1/32 of play when clamped in the hitch.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Quickbite 002.jpg
Views:	200
Size:	377.2 KB
ID:	180327

If you are seeing a 1/2 in of movement I would ask that you check the ball size against the coupler size.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:19 AM   #1475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
Interesting question.
When I got home from my last trip I did notice the closeness of the Quickbite to the hitch. After your post I went out and hitched up in the drive. This picture shows the relationship just after hitching. Less than an 1/8 in. Even given this closeness there is no sign of contact between the Quickbite and the hitch after 900 miles.
Attachment 180326

I did not tow but did insert an extra ball just to see if there was room for any movement. A 2 5/16 ball has less than 1/32 of play when clamped in the hitch.
Attachment 180327

If you are seeing a 1/2 in of movement I would ask that you check the ball size against the coupler size.
Interesting. I know my ball reads 2 5/16. I am also compressing my bushings to less than 1/2 inch and am wondering if a bumpy road or steep approach may allow the ball to find some opening in the hitch????

It is the ball that came with the Andersen Hitch.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:59 AM   #1476
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Can you post some pictures. A 1/2 in. compression on the bushings is huge. Can Am exploded the bushings in that range of compression in his attempt to discount the Andersen.

What is your trailer?

I don't have a picture of the bushings loaded but I think it is less than 3/16 with my 34 fter.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:01 PM   #1477
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I think the compression of the bushings is the problem. When I set my hitch up. I don't go by the 7 thread rule that Andersen has in the instructions. Since I had to extend the chains to get everything together, the 7 thread rule went out the window.
When tensioning the chains. I compress the urethane bushing until I can measure 3" between the BLACK washer welded to the square tube and the outside of the silver washer on the other end of the bushing. I make both sides the same.
If the coupler is not perfectly square with the trailer, which mine isn't. By using the thread count, you get one side tighter than the other.
I did have a problem in the last campground. Because the space I rented was uphill. But the space leveled out where the TV was setting to hitch up. This meant that the rear end of the TV was higher relative to the coupler when compared to hitching on a level flat surface.
In order to hitch up, I had to raise the coupler quite a bit higher (2"-3") than normal to back under it. Plus I was slightly out of square with the trailer.
To resolve the elevation and out of square issue. I just pulled the rig onto a flat surface and set up the WD hitch. It did require jacking the trailer tongue up to set the bushing tension. But it all went smoothly.
My question on the interference problem with the Quickbite coupler. Why not cut the portion of the adjustable ball mount off?
The other question is. Why is the Quickbite creeping forward? The jaws must be opening slightly at the front when the pressure of the WD is applied. It wouldn't take much of an opening for it to come forward 3/8".
My trailer is 26' with 700#'s tongue weight. I haven't seen any problems with the Marvel coupler/ Andersen hitch combination as of yet with 600+ miles of towing. But I'm keeping a very close eye on things.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:37 PM   #1478
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Can you post some pictures. A 1/2 in. compression on the bushings is huge. Can Am exploded the bushings in that range of compression in his attempt to discount the Andersen.

What is your trailer?

I don't have a picture of the bushings loaded but I think it is less than 3/16 with my 34 fter.

How do I post pictures??
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:47 PM   #1479
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First. You need to resize the pics you want. I believe the max is 1280 p.
If you are on a desk top. Open the "reply" box. Not the quick reply. Look for the paper clip. A screen will pop up with 4 browse buttons. Select "browse" and pick the picture you want. Repeat the steps for each pic.
Then hit the "upload" button.
I'm pretty sure I got it right.
If you are not on a Desktop or Laptop. Someone else will have to chime in.
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Old 03-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #1480
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If you just want to post a single picture. As mentioned above, go to the paper clip in the tool bar above where you are typing your comment. Once the paper clip is open you will see a drop down box with a place to Browse for your picture. Select a picture or pictures from your pictures folder and hit upload. The picture will be displayed right where you are in your comment. You can now continue typing below the picture if you have additional comments.

If you want to display more than one picture and have comments appear between the picture do this. When you open the Reply option scroll down past the Submit Reply until you see Manage Attachments. Click on that. It will open the same drop down box and you can select and load your pictures. The difference is when you click on the paper clip it will present all of the pictures you have load in this secession of Manage Attachments and allow you to select the one you want at this point in your post. The continue typing until you want the next picture.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:55 AM   #1481
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Can Am exploded the bushings in that range of compression in his attempt to discount the Andersen.

Hi Howie. I did not buy and Anderson in an attempt to discount it, I think many portions of the design are very innovative. On repeated tests the bushings have never exploded but they are very compressed.

I have been trying to acheive weight transfer with it even with some modifications but so far it has not been possible except on the very lightest and shortest combinations.

All my testing and use over the years points to proper weight transfer being extreamly important. However 95% of the trailers on the road with conventional hitches are not set up to acheive proper weight transfer.

If comparing a convention weight distribution set up without proper weight transfer to an Anderson without proper weight transfer the Anderson will feel better due to the very precise and powerful sway control.

As I said before I have a concern with a powerful sway control that you cannot turn off combined with too little weight on the tow vehicle front tires. This combination can cause loss of steering in slippery conditions, which we encounter quite frequently in our area.

My other concern is that with a conventional weight distribution the torsion bars force the ball up into the coupler. You could tow for a million miles with the coupler unlocked and never loose the trailer. In 43 years and thousands of customers towing millions of miles I have never had a customer loose a trailer and I don't really want to start now.

Not that I won't keep playing with it but the product is not there yet. For those of you experimenting that is great, like with any peice of equipment be aware of the limitations.

Just to clarify.

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Old 03-07-2013, 08:47 AM   #1482
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I tend to agree with AndrewT.
I am still in the analysis stage of this hitch.
As for the sway control. The amount of force is based on the tongue weight. (Obviously) The heavier the tongue weight the more aggressive the sway control.
I like the Andersen so far. It seems to work well for me. But I have what one would consider a mid size trailer, 26' with a GVWR of 6200#. I have never exceeded 5600# when loaded and ready to travel. Tongue weight is 700#.
I believe the air bags I installed on the Tundra help to assist the Andersen in my case. Because, I don't have to put as great of force on the bushings to get the hitch height at the proper level for travel.
While I haven't been able to return the front axle weight of the TV to the unloaded weight totally. It is within 100 pounds when hitched. And the fender height is virtually the same.
I usually carry 300 pounds of "stuff" in the back of the truck, including the spare for the trailer. I believe the air bags help here as well. In preventing any squat caused by the cargo and passengers in the truck prior to hitching.
I only run 20# of air in the bags, which is ( according to Firestone) about 680 pounds of load carrying capacity.
What I see in my simple analysis. The Andersen prevents the "porpoising" along with providing sway control. By preventing the "porpoising", the rear axle of the TV does not act as the fulcrum point and therefore it gives more stability to the steering axle.
Since I am still in the analysis stage. I have installed a safety chain over the coupler, to prevent the coupler from coming off of the ball. Which I see as an unlikely event in my travels so far.
I also believe that a mid size trailer may be at the upper limit of the Andersen capability. Although I don't have any data to back it up.
As for conventional WD systems. I believe they have drawbacks as well. As stated above, 95% of them are not set up properly. Which means they don't really provide the weight distribution or they are placing undue and extreme forces on the TV hitch assembly and the trailer frame.
As we all know. A$ trailers don't like to be stressed.
IMHO
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:23 AM   #1483
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I should point out the 20# in the air bags is with the truck loaded and the full hitch weight applied.
I think the airbags dampen the "boing" or "slingshot" effect of the TV's suspension system. Which also helps with the steering stability.
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:28 AM   #1484
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We started towing the 23 with our Nissan Van when it was 10 years. It had 180,000 miles on it at that time. There was some rear bounce. Installed a set of good F150 shocks on the rear and they smoothed out the ride. Using a vintage Reese Dual Cam.
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