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Old 03-02-2013, 08:38 AM   #1457
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You are right Michael. The Bulldog is difficult to hitch, and unhitch, and that is the beauty of the Quckbite, as it apears to be the easiest of them all.
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:57 AM   #1458
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I will say that if my Marvel ever craps out I would strongly consider the Quickbite. I am very impressed by its apparent ease of use and safety. Looking forward to seeing how in the long term the Quickbite works out for those replacing their other couplers with it.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:06 AM   #1459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
If there was such a thing as the perfect coupler every trailer would already have it installed. They are all like any man made product a compromise and imperfect by their very nature. There will never be total agreement here on what is the best WD system, coupler, tow vehicle or even who makes the best hamburger. Whatever works for you is the best option.
True, another way to put it is:
"Best" is an opinion based on a specific set of circumstances (which include personal preference and personal experience).

Also any change in circumstances can change what is "best".
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:30 AM   #1460
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Steve

You are correct. There is a void at the rear of the Quickbite coupler

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However given that there is no possible displacement of the jaws while closed and there is no movement, other than slight pitch and yaw, the potential for ware is as close to zero as one could get.

The contact area is shown by the marks on the jaws

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Marks on the ball that correspond to those on the jaws when the jaws are closed, note fresh rusting with slight yellow coloring.

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Also note that the marks on both the jaws and the ball show no indication that the hitch was being forced upwards by the chain tension, the problem resulting with the Atwood pawl and the incline that positions it against the ball
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:01 PM   #1461
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Thanks Howie. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the Quickbite is bad, or that it won't work...just saying from what I've seen, the Bulldog that clamps around the ball from the side is the strongest.

Bulldog company makes another coupler that looks very strong also, is rated for even more weight than their original design coupler, but it has a pawl setup that slides downward to couple onto the ball like the Atwood, which I think is not such a good idea because of what I stated before, the vectored forces involved.

The Quikbite does seem to be the easiest coupler to use, however. Like everything else, it's almost impossible to get everything in one design.

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Old 03-02-2013, 03:10 PM   #1462
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Hitch Pin Hole Question

Going through the setup of my new Anderson I noticed that the hole drilled in the hitch (the part that slides into the receiver) is located just 2" from the end. Due to the location of the pin hole on the receiver, also 2" from the end, causes the hitch to extend beyond the rear of the receiver somewhat.

The square receiver tube has a length of 6", yet due to the placement of the pinhole on the hitch, only 4" of the hitch is inserted into the receiver. Is this normal? Has anybody tried drilling a new pinhole in their hitch so the hitch can slide fully back into the receiver?



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Old 03-02-2013, 04:37 PM   #1463
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There is no reason to change that relationship. Some receavers are only 4 in. deep to begin with.
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Old 03-02-2013, 05:24 PM   #1464
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kscherzi.... With traditional WDH's it is common practice to redrill the shank to get the ball as close to the back bumper as possible. For performance it is the right thing to do.



With the Andrsn ?????
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:02 PM   #1465
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I also had concerns about the amount of ball mount that enters the receiver along with the 2" extension beyond the back of the receiver.
I welded an extension on to the ball mount using a piece I cut off of an old ball mount. The extension protrudes far enough thru the receiver the I could put a second pin thru the ball mount. The second pin does not go thru a hole in the receiver, but it would prevent the ball mount from sliding out of the receiver should the primary pin come out.
Belts and suspenders for me.
I left the 2" extension out the back of the receiver. I built a rack to hold mud flaps to protect the front of the trailer from rocks and other material slung up by the TV tires.
It's a simple device that slides onto the ball mount prior to installing it in the receiver.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:09 AM   #1466
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Twinkie do you have any photos of you mods and the mud flaps?
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:58 AM   #1467
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AWCHIEF;
I will take picks today and post them later.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:44 PM   #1468
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Mud Flaps

Extension of the ball mount before painting.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...tExtension.jpg

Square tubing and mounting bracket.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...cketDetail.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...mBallMount.jpg

Secondary Pin.
http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...inLocation.jpg

Top View.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...er/TopView.jpg

Finished Product.

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/.../RockTamer.jpg
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:56 PM   #1469
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Twinkie, nice job on the mud flaps. I just might have to try something like that myself.

*While I am not sure that all of the modifications and changes that some are making are entirely necessary, their inventiveness and resourcefulness is quite amazing. I think that some people including myself just like to tinker. I can be guilty of over thinking a project and end up making it more complicated than need be or see a problem where none actually exist.
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #1470
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One thing that bothers me about the receiver on the Tundra. It seems a bit large. Larger than the standard 2" box tubing I used for the mud flap mount. It's only a few thousands, but the ball mount can move more than I have seen in previous receivers. While I know the pin (bolt in my case) does most of the lateral force work.
It turned out that I could cut the extension I made from an old ball mount that I could cut it in such a way that the secondary pin could be used. Can't hurt,
For those who might ask:
The wall thickness on the box tubing is .233".
The angle iron is 1 1/4" with a flange thickness of .187".
The angle iron is 78" in length.
I used 1/4"x20 x1" bolts with Nyloc nuts to mount the flaps.
The flaps are 25" wide. The bolts are spaced on 2 3/4" centers. Roughly.

By the way. When I tried to post these pics as a group of 6. I managed to screw up pics that were posted with Photobucket in this and other threads here. So now the pics on my posts don't match the comments. I don't know if a moderator can fix my mistake by resetting the post I made to a previous time.
So if anyone has a question, I'll post new pics.
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