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Old 02-22-2013, 12:34 PM   #1415
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Additional pictures relating to my installation.

As mentioned there is a difference between the Atwood and Quickbite couplers with respect to the location of the jack post holes. If you are changing couplers keep this in mind when laying out the job.

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Another consideration is the fact that the Quickbite ball housing is on the same level as the top of the coupling so a change in mounting height of the hitch will be necessary to maintain a trailer level ride. I had to invert the shank to raise the ball that addition space.
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I now use the top hole in the hitch as a point to secure the umbilical code and breakaway cable, at the pivot point, from snagging in the assembly while turning.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:41 PM   #1416
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Based on the positive comments by Andersen users and the negative comments by those who haven't, I ordered my Anderson WD hitch on Thursday. Even with the snow, I expect it on Tuesday.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:49 PM   #1417
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Rendrag, kindly report back about your installation and how it performs for you.

Important: Follow the Andersen instructions on setting it up.

Tip: Weld or bolt the upper part of the frame brackets to keep them in place, and do not try to tension the chains unless the tongue jack is down, relieving tongue weight off the ball. As per instructions.

doug k
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #1418
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SteveH;
Maybe that's the difference between the Atwood and the Marvel. On the Marvel. When you lift the handle from the lock position, the pawl drops down. Allowing clearance for the ball to slip in or out of the coupler. When you push the handle down and the ball is in the coupler. The pawl comes up against the bottom portion of the ball. Preventing the ball from passing thru the now smaller opening created by the pawl being in place. I posted some pics earlier, clearly showing this.
When I look at the pawl for the Atwood, it looks identical to the Marvel pawl. The only difference is the lift rod on the Marvel does not have the lock notch or the lock fin.
I don't know if the coupler socket is the same design on the Atwood and Marvel couplers.
I don't think the Atwood coupler pawl goes down to lock the pawl.
I agree with dougK's comments on setting up the Andersen.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:58 PM   #1419
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Andersen and Attwood Jack Holes

Howie, you mentioned that you had to adjust the holes for the jack on the Andersen. What did you have to do? There is also a plate welded onto the frame under the coupler where the jack shaft goes through. Did you have to modify that? Did you have the hitch installed in Gainesville on you way home?
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:31 PM   #1420
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There was no adjustment to the Andersen with respect to the installation of the of the Quickbite coupling and the jack holes. It was an alignment of the jack holes from the Atwood and the Quickbite in be able to clear the gas bottles and make use of the lower jack support hole on the A frame.

As for the Andersen I did have to add a link to the chains because of that placement.

Yes I used S&F Mobile Welding in Archer Fl. We discussed the options resulting from the design differences between the Atwwod and the Quickbite and took this approach.

A side benefit of the longer reach of the Quickbite is I will not dent the front of my Airstream again with my kayak. Have to get that dent out
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:33 PM   #1421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post

A side benefit of the longer reach of the Quickbite is I will not dent the front of my Airstream again with my kayak. Have to get that dent out
Hope you didn't dent the Kayak as well!
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #1422
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As promised, I received my Andersen hitch today. Everything looks good except I do not see the "Retaining Ball Collar for towing without Weight Distribution". It appears that that is a retaing clip in place which would accomplish the same thing. My question is, "Do I have something missing or not"? Looking forward to doing some testing tomorrow.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:32 PM   #1423
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Yes, you are missing something necessary. Contact Andersen and tell them about the missing colllar.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:34 PM   #1424
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Not sure but they may have dropped that from the material supplied. I have never used mine and can't see any reason to ever use it. That ball is not coming out of the housing and the pin and clip will do the same thing as the collar.
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:44 PM   #1425
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I feel better knowing the collar is there and the pin is in it, with the clip. I know the ball is in a tapered hole. If you were to hit a bump where the trailer tongue put a lot of upward pressure on the ball. It might lift the ball and then slam it down. It could cause damage to the brake material inside the taper. Next time you use the equalizer function, it may not have the anti sway function.
If you don't have the retainer ring. Just remove the chains from the plate used for the WD, then pull the pin and rotate the plate 180 degrees and put the pin back in.
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Old 02-26-2013, 11:22 PM   #1426
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I only use the collar when storing the hitch; with the weight distribution chains on you don't need it. But if towing a light trailer with the only Andersen drop bar and ball, the collar should be on there I think.

doug k
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:59 AM   #1427
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Quote:
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.............................................
If you don't have the retainer ring. Just remove the chains from the plate used for the WD, then pull the pin and rotate the plate 180 degrees and put the pin back in.
Thanks, that comes under the "Why didn't I think of that" department. I doubt that I will ever use the hitch without WD anyway.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:26 AM   #1428
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Leaving part of Atwood on

You mentioned that you left part of the Atwood coupler on when you installed the Quickbite. What part? Can you send a picture and also show the where the angle iron was welded.
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