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Old 02-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #1401
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HowieE
Why did you choose the Quick Bite over something like the Bulldog? It doesn't have much more history than the Andersen.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:40 PM   #1402
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I do not know what the inside of the Bulldog looks like and therefor I do not know how it would react to the reward forces the Andersen places on the hitch. I did talk to the inventor of the Quickbite and and it is clear there is material in that coupler to support the forces in question.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:44 PM   #1403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, did it not work because the parts involved were already damaged?
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Yes.

I had hoped to get a second chance grip on the fin but it was too far gone.
Hi, so for someone who's hitch hasn't been damaged or worn out yet, drilling out the latch holes and/or installing a larger lock/pin should work.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:49 PM   #1404
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OK now that you made it back to New Jersey, How do you like the Quickbite and the Quickbite Andersen combo?
Not to change this tread into a Quickbite thread let me say this.

Hitching requires some change in the routine. You have to be alined it 2 directions, vertically and horizontally since you can not lower the coupler on the ball. If you have a partner this is not an issue. If hitching alone it will require a trip back there to check things just before coupling.

The combination beyond compliments. You have to use your mirrors to know the trailer is back there.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:56 PM   #1405
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I am going to continue the weld on either side of the shark fin to the very front of it. That should give it enough support and bulk to keep the latch from wearing it out. The possibility is that once the fin is broadened and stabilized, the wear may be transferred to the latch but I plan to adjust the latch so the latch and fin are in constant contact rather than beating against each other. Also will put some lubricant between the two pieces. I hope to hear some suggestion from Andersen in the meantime. My opinion is that the advantages of this hitch are worth efforts to overcome what I hope are temporary problems.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:57 PM   #1406
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The lift bar and the 2 pins that connect the lift bar are not strong enough to take forces that will be applied to them once you reinforce the fin. This would just be a postponement of the failure

I have suggested to Andersen that they see if they can make a plastic template to slip over the Atwood coupler with marks on it that would define where one could drill for a 5/16 pin to fit behind the pawl and prevent any movement upwards against the incline. This is not something one could do themselves without a good cross section drawing of the Atwood but would be an easy task if such a template was available.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:47 PM   #1407
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Have any of you thought about having the passenger watch the coupler with a backup camera while going down the road to see if the Atwood latch is "dancing around" when you hit a bump?
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:40 PM   #1408
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Still searching.

Hi, today I had some free time to check out several hardware stores to see if I could find a lock with a 11/32" shaft or a sleeve of some sort of metal that could be used to fill the latch hole better; I returned home, several hours later, empty handed. Maybe tomorrow, I will check out the lock smith's shop. Why is the hole in the latch drilled with such uncommon sizes? I hate to drill it larger, but may end up doing it anyway.

Maybe England or some other country makes a 9mm lock shaft. Check the lock smith tomorrow.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:58 PM   #1409
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Why not just drill it out to 3/8". That's only .031" larger. There is a lot of stuff out there that is 3/8".
And the Kool Aid line has always been from the LEFT!
How 'bout we try to keep on topic!!
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:43 AM   #1410
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I have been using the Anderson hitch this trip for the first time. After towing about 1800 miles I find no handling issues. My trailer is riding softer. ( no open drawers or stuff thrown about). I had no sway issues with my former and traditional WD hitch and find none with the Anderson. The washboard roads are a little smoother too. All in all I'm a happy traveler. I have hitched/unhitched 6 or 7 times during this trip and find it simple and much lighter than the old hitch. I do follow this thread when I can and am keeping an eye for any of the trouble issues mentioned to see if / when they develop and as yet have found none. I unhitch by un-threading the bushing rod and letting the chains slack. Then remove the triangle plate w/ chains attached. I do not like the clevis that they included and will replace that when I get home. I have threaded a wire tie through to insure the clevis cannot vibrate out. I hitch by re-installing the triangle plate and thread the bolts on with the trailer raised somewhat. I then lower it and tighten to my specs. SO FAR SO GOOD.

I think I will try having my wife stand on the A-frame as the observer to see what, if any movement, she can see as we go down the road. I don't have a back-up camera but I like that idea too. I'll report back as soon as she gets the buggs out of her teeth. I may put a seat on top of the propane tank cover so she'll be more comfortable.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:52 AM   #1411
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Went out and checked the holes for the lock on the Marvel coupler. They are all the same size and line up perfectly when the ball is in the coupler and the handle is in the lock position.
Has anyone considered the "adjustable" type of hitch? It is offered by both Bulldog and Quickbite. Once the mounting plate is welded to the trailer tongue. It is an easy job to replace the coupler (if needed) 2 bolts and it's done. Both the Bulldog and Quickbite have couplers rated at over 12,000 pounds for this application.
Your existing coupler could be removed in the same way that HowieE did. By cutting the existing coupler off, leaving the tongue jack mounting plate in place. Which not only provides a place for the jack to mount, it serves as a gusset to strengthen the "A" frame.
The initial welding would not be as extensive as what was done by HowieE.
I use the adjustable type hitch on my farm machines. Pulling across rough fields, making hard 90 degree turns several hundred times a day. I have never had a problem with the 2 bolt mounting. The machines are at least twice as heavy in mass and the tongue weights far exceed what any trailer would be.
Just throwing out another choice.
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:19 AM   #1412
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The problem that I see with the Andersen and the Atwood is the pawl on the Atwood goes down to latch the hitch around the ball. With the vectored force of the Andersen, the force applied to the pawl is up and to the rear, which is sort of against the direction of coupling.

Most all other couplers that I know of either clamp around the ball (such as with the quickbite and the bulldog), or pull up fron under the ball. Either case the Andersen is not trying to uncouple the coupler as it is with the Atwood.

All other WD hitches using bars apply a downward force on the coupler which in no way loads the pawl.

From what I've seen of Atwood coupler failures on this thread, it is my opinion the Andersen is not a good choice of hitch with a large, heavy trailer equipped with the Atwood coupler.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:40 AM   #1413
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<<Mod Mode>>

In the past few days we have seen quite a spike in shall we say, less than friendly posting on this thread. As such, we have taken a few housekeeping measures and we are reminding everyone of the "Be Nice" rule. We recognize the interest and passion some of you share about this product, and we are grateful for the exchange of useful information, but let's keep it civil please.

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Old 02-22-2013, 12:13 PM   #1414
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More Andersen & Quickbite

For those that are looking at the Quickbite... Here's some pic's of my installation a while back... (11/2008) http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...day-46178.html

It's been a trouble free coupler - easy to hook/unhook - no grease - BIG HEAVY SS 'jaws' that entirely encapsulate the hitch ball... By design, it's virtually impossible for the ball to come out of the QB coupler when hitched & pinned properly...

Having used the QB coupler, I disagree with the above opinion of it's compatibility with the Anderson WD hitch... The 'jaws' on the AB are massive, and are secured when hitched with a heavy steel 'strap' and held in place with two large steel pins...

There is a clearance 'gap' in the jaws at the rear when in the 'hitched' position... however there is still plenty of 'meat' that completely encloses the ball that would provide lots of support for the Anderson's WD application, IMHO...

One other note... You can see in my pic's that we removed the old coupler entirely, and started from scratch... The QB's 'V' shaped end of their couple is actually designed to fit OVER (clearance'd) the old coupler, after the old ball socket end has been cut and ground away...

I didn't realize this feature until we had removed the old coupler, and had to use some 1/4" steel spacers on each side at the rear of the QB to fill in the GAP... Had we known, it would have been a much easier/quicker installation...

Happy Trails...
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