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Old 02-21-2013, 12:22 AM   #1387
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
I think you are on to something. Could it really be that simple? I will look at the Marvel coupler tomorrow and compare the holes.
Hi, yes, I think it could be; Look at floridalarry's picture.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:08 AM   #1388
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I think that is a solution whether or not you use an Anderson. I'll be checking mine as soon as it gets light out. Sal
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:16 AM   #1389
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As I said in my previous post. I'm not defending Andersen or knocking Atwood. I'm just trying to get to the root of the problem. Also to see if there is a difference between the Marvel and Atwood couplers.
I am into SAFETY as well. That's the reason for the chain over the "A" frame. Belt and suspenders, so to speak.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:33 AM   #1390
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, I don't have an Andersen hitch, but I do have an Attwood coupler. After investigating this, coupler versus hitch dilemma, I think that I may have found a solution. I used what I call mechanic's micrometers. [wrenches and drill bits] I found that my lock has about a 9/32" shaft, the hole in the latch lever is about 11/32", and the hole in the fin is about 23/64". When closed, my 11/32" drill bit holds the latch solidly in place. With my little lock in place, I can take my pocket screwdriver and almost move the lever enough to disconnect it from the fin.

Well, see my pictures.

I think the answer is to drill the latch and fin holes out to 3/8" and find a lock with a 3/8" shaft.

(1.) Latch with lock installed and pocket screwdriver prying the arm from the fin. Almost at a release point.

(2.) Latched with a 11/32" drill bit in the latch and fin holes.

(3.) Prying on the arm, with pocket screwdriver, with 11/32" drill bit in the holes. The arm will not move like in the first picture.
While this may postpone the problem in that it makes and stronger contact point between the latch and the shark fin it will not eliminate the eventual failure of the Shark fin. I did drill out my latch and shark fin after the initial failure attempting to get a closer contact between them. It did not work.

Those of you lucky enough to live and camp in states with smooth roads will not encounter this issue as soon or as often as those of us that travel the rougher roads. This problem is a result of impact pounding from rough roads.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:40 AM   #1391
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Originally Posted by Pnr View Post
I am surprised many are making excuses for the anderson. With the kind of problems showing up, this hitch seems to be a very big safety risk.

Hensley and propride combined dont have these kind of reports. Is the possibility of a trailer coming loose really worth saving a few bucks ??
I don't think anyone is making excuses for the Andersen system. It is simply a case of many users here are not having the issues that some are experiencing. You make it sound like no one has ever had a problem with either the Hensley or the proride hitches. Not so, do some research here and other sites and you will find plenty of complaints with both those designs. Personally I don’t believe that it is a problem in the Andersen design. I believe it is a matter of poor quality of materials used in the Attwood couplers. The old Marvel couplers were built like tanks. Mine is 49 years old and appears as tight and solid as the day it was made. No cracks, worn holes or any other defects that I can see after close observation. The 2 inch Andersen ball fits so tight that I also have to jump the receiver to get it to release.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:40 AM   #1392
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I have replaced my Atwood coupler with a Quikebite before heading home and will post on that replacement but would ask if anyone knows how to insert picture within the text rather than all of the pictures appearing at the end of the text
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:01 AM   #1393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pnr View Post
I am surprised many are making excuses for the anderson. With the kind of problems showing up, this hitch seems to be a very big safety risk.

Hensley and propride combined dont have these kind of reports. Is the possibility of a trailer coming loose really worth saving a few bucks ??
I think you will find, in WD hitches like everything else, nothing is perfect. I have a ProPride, and while it really is an excellent hitch, it is not perfect either.

The down side of the ProPride and Hensley, in addition to cost, is the weight. My ProPride is in excess of 200 pounds. (In some instances this is the break point in towing with a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton truck) Also, in some instances of angled drives into a camping spot, I have had a devil of a time getting rehitched, and I hear the Hensley is even worse.

I also have an Andersen on a smaller 17' Casita, and it's great. Personally, I believe the problems that Airstream/Andersen users are having is a result of the type of latching mechanism that is used in the Atwood hitches, not the Andersen.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:52 AM   #1394
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Originally Posted by MrUKToad View Post
Could the solution to the coupler problem be as simple as applying some grease to the pawl? There's obviously some small movement within the coupler housing whilst underway, and maybe that's causing the ball to push the pawl upwards. Add some grease and the ball shouldn't be able to get any grip on the one moveable part.

Just a thought.....
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Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
All things considered I wonder if it might be a good idea to put a light coat of grease on the back of the ball to minimize any friction caused by vibration between the ball and the latch. Just a thought.
That was my thought as well.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:32 PM   #1395
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A Message To Andersen

It seems only fitting that Andersen would make their own coupler for their hitch. They make money on both while giving us the benefits of their neat hitch. That make sense to me because of the unique way of WD that their hitch does it. The couplers available today especially the Atwood with that latch shoe being on the rear is vulnerable to movement as itís where most of the WD of the Andersen is placed. Andersen being in the business could fabricated a coupler that will take the WD forces more efficiently and locking in the ball and coupler as a one-unit-system without grease. The world of couplers wasnít such an issue for me till the Andersen . So a message to Andersen, "mate your trailer hitch with your own coupler and itís a win, win situation. Make money on both and guarantying the growth of a revolutionary neat hitch". At least endorse
couplers that may work from the testing that theyĎve done. Otherwise we continue to be the guinea pigs.

Perhaps weíll get a discount if such a coupler was made by Andersen, but not holding my breath.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:52 PM   #1396
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OK I have been off line for a while while traveling and here is an update.

As noted my Atwood coupler failed by shearing off the stop on the shark fin at top the coupler allowing the pawl to ride up the incline and released the latch causing the only thing holding the trailer to the TV was the tongue weight. Yes I am aware that Andersen is looking into a possible mode to the Atwood coupler I could not risk traveling north to the bumpy roads of New Jersey lest the trailer might come off while traveling. I decided to install a Quickbite coupler before heading north.

Unless a solution to this problem is forthcoming ALL Atwood coupler will eventually fail in this manor. It is only a matter of road conditions and mileage traveled.

The first picture is the mark out as to where to cut off the Atwood coupling. Note I do not suggest removing All of the Atwood for reasons to be noted later.
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Name:	Quickbite 001.jpg
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Once the front of the Atwood has been removed clean up any rough edges. Note the upper and lower jack stand holes are left in place and will be used.
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Place the Quickbite on in such a way as to aline the jack stand holes. Put the jack in place to be sure every thing will fit. Temporally bolt the jack in place.
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Your will now note that the Quickbite done not fit tight to the A frame of the trailer while in this position. If you were to move the Quickbite back against the A frame the jack stand holes would not line up and if installed in that position there will be conflicts with the bottle cover.

You can now see there is a gap along the lower edge of the coupler to the A frame. Cut and tack weld angle irons to the A frame along the lower edge of the angle iron.

Note the angles held in place with vice gripes for tack welding.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Quickbite 008.jpg
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ID:	179501

Remove the jack and finish welding the angle irons is place being sure to weld the top edge to the frame.

Temporally reinstall the jack to be sure things still fit and tack the coupler in place. Remove the jack and finish welding the coupler in place making sure to weld the front vertical and horizontal edge of the frame is welded to the coupler. Some filler material may be used to fill the gap along the back edge od the coupler.
Click image for larger version

Name:	Quickbite 016.jpg
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ID:	179504

As it turns out the offset in the 2 different couplers with respect to the jack holes is such that adding a chain coupling and no changes in the brackets


Made it home.
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Name:	Quickbite 005.jpg
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ID:	179500   Click image for larger version

Name:	Quickbite 013.jpg
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ID:	179502  

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Old 02-21-2013, 01:57 PM   #1397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
While this may postpone the problem in that it makes and stronger contact point between the latch and the shark fin it will not eliminate the eventual failure of the Shark fin. I did drill out my latch and shark fin after the initial failure attempting to get a closer contact between them. It did not work.

Those of you lucky enough to live and camp in states with smooth roads will not encounter this issue as soon or as often as those of us that travel the rougher roads. This problem is a result of impact pounding from rough roads.

Hi, did it not work because the parts involved were already damaged?
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:10 PM   #1398
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Picture of added chain link.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:12 PM   #1399
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Hi, did it not work because the parts involved were already damaged?
Yes.

I had hoped to get a second chance grip on the fin but it was too far gone.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:13 PM   #1400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
OK I have been off line for a while while traveling and here is an update.

As noted my Atwood coupler failed by shearing off the stop on the shark fin at top the coupler allowing the pawl to ride up the incline and released the latch causing the only thing holding the trailer to the TV was the tongue weight. Yes I am aware that Andersen is looking into a possible mode to the Atwood coupler I could not risk traveling north to the bumpy roads of New Jersey lest the trailer might come off while traveling. I decided to install a Quickbite coupler before heading north.

Unless a solution to this problem is forthcoming ALL Atwood coupler will eventually fail in this manor. It is only a matter of road conditions and mileage traveled.

The first picture is the mark out as to where to cut off the Atwood coupling. Note I do not suggest removing All of the Atwood for reasons to be noted later.
Attachment 179498

Once the front of the Atwood has been removed clean up any rough edges. Note the upper and lower jack stand holes are left in place and will be used.
Attachment 179499

Place the Quickbite on in such a way as to aline the jack stand holes. Put the jack in place to be sure every thing will fit. Temporally bolt the jack in place.
Attachment 179503

Your will now note that the Quickbite done not fit tight to the A frame of the trailer while in this position. If you were to move the Quickbite back against the A frame the jack stand holes would not line up and if installed in that position there will be conflicts with the bottle cover.

You can now see there is a gap along the lower edge of the coupler to the A frame. Cut and tack weld angle irons to the A frame along the lower edge of the angle iron.

Note the angles held in place with vice gripes for tack welding.
Attachment 179501

Remove the jack and finish welding the angle irons is place being sure to weld the top edge to the frame.

Temporally reinstall the jack to be sure things still fit and tack the coupler in place. Remove the jack and finish welding the coupler in place making sure to weld the front vertical and horizontal edge of the frame is welded to the coupler. Some filler material may be used to fill the gap along the back edge od the coupler.
Attachment 179504

As it turns out the offset in the 2 different couplers with respect to the jack holes is such that adding a chain coupling and no changes in the brackets


Made it home.
OK now that you made it back to New Jersey, How do you like the Quickbite and the Quickbite Andersen combo?
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