Tailgate hits tongue jack.

[KJRitchie]

I was lucky my Tundra and now my 2015 Ram 2500 tailgates clears my power jack by a inch or two. However if I'm not fairly straight then the tailgate will not clear. I can live with that.

Kelvin.

[Skip Stone]

Turk123,
I own a 2015 F-150 platinum, equalizer hitch, and the Atwood 3000 jack. I looked at a video but could not determine if the 4000 cover has a smaller profile to allow full tailgate extension.

Do you know if the 4000 has a smaller profile, can be turned sideways, or recommend at good power jack that would allow the tailgate to fully open?

Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Skip

[turk123]

I don't know

[Rocinante]

The power jacks that came on Airstreams before the Atwood switch could be turned sideways. Find someone who will sell you this one, which used to be original equipment: https://www.barkermfg.com/hi-power-3500.html

Should be possible to turn the power head of this jack sideways and clear the tailgate.

BTW, I currently have a cheaper version, the VIP3000, as I bought the wrong one when my 3500 Hi Power gave up the ghost (pretty sure that was my fault, btw). The new cheaper one works fine and I've turned it sideways so my tailgate clears the jack, but it's clearly not as nice a model as the original. https://www.barkermfg.com/vip-3000.html

[Skip Stone]

Rocinante,
Thanks for the information. I went to the Barker web site, and it certainly appears to be a made in the USA quality product. Considering you purchased the 3000 model, I have two questions. On the brochure the mounting plate appears round, do they offer a triangular mounting plate?

Also, in case of power failure the manual crank is horizontally mounted as opposed to vertical - indicating it will be obstructed by the propane cover?

Thanks again,Skip

[Rocinante]

Dunno about a triangular plate, we needed round so we're happy. [emoji4]
Haven't tried manual operations, but as i recall the crank point is on top.

[Silver.Sanctuary]

Originally Posted by KWN306

I'm sorry if I offend anyone but spending $2500 on a hitch to be able to lower your tail gate on your pickup truck is just a plain stupid way of spending ones hard earned dollars.

I've had two trucks (Dodge and a new Ford) and I cannot open the tailgate on either. This problem didn't show up until I purchased an AS. Rotating my jack didn't solve the problem either. AS has an extremely short tongue compared to other manufactures.

Although I tend to agree with you since I grew up in a family with six kids and money didn't grow on trees, I should remind you that not all people had to work for their money and "hard earned" has a totally different connotation for some. People who inherited money or were born with a silver spoon in their mouths (so to speak) would think nothing of spending an extra $2500 for the convenience... but most who buy the Hensley or Pro Pride system do it for trailer control and not tongue jack clearance.
I have a hand operated tongue jack which takes 35 cranks at full extension. I can not lower the tailgate on my Tundra without hitting the handle which is not detachable. I have a flat fiberglass Leer cover on my truck bed, and cannot simply open a window to get access. I am 71 and would like the convenience but it is more tempting on trips where I only stay at a campsite for one night at a time. Sitting in the same spot at Catalina SP in Tucson is a different story. I am on this forum right now looking to see if there is a $250 electric jack that allows the tailgate to come all the way down with my 2004 Safari 22 foot Airstream attached to my Equal-izer Brand hitch which works fine. Anybody have this arrangement?

[Ray Eklund]

Not Sure what a Tongue Jack is, but... am guessing it is near the bumper....?

Never had this problem. I have owned a 2006 Tundra, 2012 Tundra and a 2016 F350 Ford.

The first two had 2" Hitch Sleeve and Shanks.
The F350 a 2 1/2" Hitch Sleeve and Shank.
These all came with Sway Control options.

The HS fits into the S for WD and SC for safe level towing, kind of thing.

It is important to have your Shank fit snug into the Sleeve. The 2 inch Sleeve for the 2.5 inch Sleeve, using a undersized 2 inch Shank... is too sloppy. If you do not know now, you will when you use one.

Shanks can be found to fit anything, even I figured it out.

Some can be FLIPPED to work. Some you just have the wrong Shank to Tango with.

Equalizer Hitches are simple enough for a Neanderthal to figure out. A half ton tow vehicle will need Weight Distribution and this will give the Equalizer Sway Control, at the same time.

Using a 3/4 to 1 ton tow vehicles. You do not need WD. Without the WD you will not have SC. But I do not need WD, get no SC with the 1000# bars towing a 27 foot International.

So. No WD gives you No SC but the Shank may be too High or Low, you find one that fits your Tow Vehicle. The TV needing a WD, SC but the WD is not enough to tow level.

The F350 needs the 2.5 inch Shank, to fit the 2.5 inch Sleeve on the Hitch, so the Ball and Coupler are aligned to ride level, if your WD is enough, but if not producing friction to give you SC when you need it most. The F250/F350 need no WD, SC nor have to Flip the Equalizer Hitch that fits the Shank, into Ford's Sleeve and the tailgate can drop, and not make contact with the bad choice in Shank.

Following me?

Got it? Shank the WD to fit the Sleeve snug for SC if needed.

If you followed this. You already know this stuff and need something better to do. I am a Neanderthal and like this stuff.

Photos are optional...

[John Ware]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Have to be careful on the Airstream loosening the three jack bolts, those bolts are what holds the front of the trailer up. Pretty scary when you think about it. You can rotate the hitch head easily by loosening the set screws.

To get the extra length, we've found that to be a bonus of using the ProPride/Hensley style hitches without the sway problems introduced by a longer hitch receiver.

I've had two AS's and the front jack bolts were stripped out on both of them.

[Ray Eklund]

Never had a loose Tongue Jack bolt. Maybe a Hand Cranked Jacks have bolt issues.

You can get a Longer Shank to clear the bumper. Do not move the trailer with the tail gate down at any time. You will have a bigger issue.

On my Power Tongue Jack... you could rotate the electric head 90 degrees.

If your Shank is too short, a sharp turn your tail light can engage the side Rock Guard and dent it or the aluminum skin of your trailer, also.

Just do not drop your tail gate when attached to your trailer.

All my tailgates dropped. No loose nuts. If you use Leveling Blocks with a 12"x12"x2" block of wood on the bottom and top... Crank your Tongue Jack only a small distance to detach the Ball from the Coupler.

There must be a lot of crazy stuff going on in Trailer World. I am a Neanderthal. How about some photographs?

Since I use a trailer only once, as I give it away as now it is used. Just like Rich People. I pay people to disengage my Hitch Ball from the Trailer Coupler. Also have a person follow us to grease the Hitch Ball when needed.

This is an old Thread. I am even shocked others responded. By now the OP figured it out, gave up and sold the trailer, or married a Rich Woman who whipped him into shape.

Myself... I just lay around and watch Human Beans do weird things and get paid for making suggestions.

Thank you. I used my Trailer twice and tired of it, too. Disposable.

I am just 'jacking with you'... Hope you figured it out. I am still working on it and will send you other suggestions. Where do I send my Bill?

[JMynes]

And that, my friends, is how you resurrect a five year old thread

[Mollysdad]

I did a post with photos on how I turned my jack so the head clears, barely.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...ys-196460.html

All jacks use three 3/8" bolts on 3" centers. There's a couple of ways to turn the jack. 1. Turn the head. Some jacks have screws one can loosen and turn the head. 2. If the jack has a round area where the bolts are, you can drill new holes exactly 90 degrees from stock.
If the mounting plate is triangular, and the head can't be unscrewed, then your last option is a longer shank. Shop for one only a couple inches longer, or drill a new hole in a longer one.

[Ray Eklund]

This is an excellent Thread to bring back to life. There are lessons to be learned. I learned, by accident, like most trailer owners.

I had a 2006 23 foot Safari and an Equalizer Hitch that used the chain and spring bars for Weight Distribution. Towed with a 2006 Tundra, 4.7L. Tailgate dropped fine and I had a Topper. The 2006 was the small Tundra and a bit overwhelmed towing the 23 foot Airstream.

In 2007, the 5.7L Tundra was available. The 2007 had some tweaking for Toyota with the untempered cam shafts breaking on some, but the larger pickup had larger brakes, engine and all around superior for towing than the 2006.

Waited one year for the 2008 Tundra to two the 23 foot Safari.

The 2008 towed very well. Tailgate cleared when dropped. When making a sharp turn the 'bulging tail light' pushed into the curb side rock guard and curved skin of the 23 foot Safari. This was pulling out of the RV Garage straight out and then turned to the right to drive out to the street.

The tail light stuck out that year. The tail light was not damaged, but left a good dent. This was totally unexpected. I learned that different results can occur with the same Hitch, but different Tow Vehicle.

Some had to rotate the electric jack head sideways, as I had done also, so the tail gate would just clear the controls. Worked just fine.

My lesson is even a Tail Light can make a difference. A slightly longer Shank would have cured this, but I did not know. Now... I do. You should check that out and make sure that on a sharp turn, your tail lights will clear.

When the 25 foot International was purchased, 750# bars, Equalizer Hitch... all was well. Checked out the Tail Gate and that the Tail Light cleared on a sharp turn.

The Tail Gate was an easy adjustment. The tail light... a surprise. I made a bad assumption. Only once... We all learn.

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Turtle

I just replaced my 2003 Ford Ranger for a 2016 F-150. The tailgate on the 150 can't be let down when hooked up. Perusing the forum, I can't find any information on a solution. Not sure if I want to go to an 18" ball receiver from my current 12". I have a 16' CCD with a 350lb. tongue weight. Can I be pointed to a thread on this or do you have any input? Jamie

I bought a longer shank……and installed it ..very easy..no problems