I am quite new at this, so would like some imput as to the type of sway control works best ( hooking, unhooking, etc). I am pulling ( only a couple of short trips so far ) a 19' Bambi with a equalizer hitch & would feel more at ease with a sway control installed. I have been looking at the Reese Dual Sway control vs a friction type & there is a bit of difference in the price, but figure there must also be a difference in performance. Your imput would be appreciated. BTW Spring can not be far off, supposed to be above 0 this week.
Thanks,
I would recommend the Reese Dual Sway Control hitch setup over a friction type. What kind of tow vehicle are you using that you do not feel comfortable towing the small trailer?
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
I'm pulling with a Ram 1500. Pulled last year a couple of times with a Ranger, knowing that I was upgrading to a bigger truck. I don't anticipate problems with that size trailer, but to be on the safe side, thought I'd go with a sway control.
I use a Reese friction sway bar for my International which is quite a bit heavier than the Bambi. I couldn't ask for more sway resistance; I can simply ignore cross winds and passing 18-wheelers.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
When I talked to the dealer they recommended a friction type, however I don't feel they have the experiance most of you people have had. While the Bambi is somewhat lighter, I am also concerned because of the weight, it might get tossed around more than heavier types. Being new I would like to also be at ease pulling when it's windy, etc.
Thanks
I can only tell you that my truck-trailer combination is much more crosswind and 18-wheeler stable with the friction bar than my truck is by itself. Whenever I drop the trailer at the end of a trip, the truck feels squirrley until I get used to it again.
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John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2004 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison
WBCCI Region 9 Webmaster, #9632
I use a dual cam reese with my F250. Sure tracks nice and doesn't move around much in wind or when passing trucks etc. It does however make the ride stiffer. Makes me wonder if I have the best bars.
I use the Reese Dual Cam sway control. One of the benefits over friction types is that it needs no adjustment based on towing conditions.
The other thought is that while the friction type may be ok with the specific trailer you are buying, if you upgrade to a larger unit, you might wish to have a better control.
A lot of your hitching equipment can be carried forward to future vehicles so I tend to make the investment up front (within reason). My current hitch configuration includes a hitch bar and adjustable ball mount that was purchased in 1982. The Reese Dual cam unit was purchased with my SOB trailer in 1996. I've updated the hitch ball and the spring bars (based on heavier tongue weights). Of course the receiver has changed with every tow vehicle.
Jack
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Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.
'03 GMC Savana 2500
'08 Vespa GTS 250
I use the Reese friction sway control (one) towing my Bambi with a short wheelbase Land Rover. Tow on interstates, mountain roads, windy conditions and have not had any problem with sway.
I would like to ask others who use friction sway (Pahaska, Silvertwinkie) how they determine how tight to adjust the sway bar? I'm not real sure I am doing this right.
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Rick Klein
'01 Bambi
'99 Land Rover Disco
FYI-There is a new High Performance Dual Cam out from Reese for 2003 that may be worth a look. You can see it at www.reeseproducts.com
Rick,
I had the same question about the Friction Control tension. The unit is preset from the factory. According to their literature, turn the adjustment lever around as far as it will go until the lever is parallel to the ground. It gets pretty tight. Loosen when in town traffic or a lot of cornering or when backing up. The literature for this is alo on the Reese site.
Jace
I usually tighten it so it's snug, but not totally locked. What I do is tighten it and back it off a bit and that seems to do the trick just fine for me. I have noticed zero sway in all kinds of weather and I'm able to still manuver the trailer without problem.
I'm sure there is a science to it, but this is the way we've done it for over 10 years (previous trailer same sway control).
That's kinda the way I've been doing it, and haven't experienced any sway problems. So, I guess I must be doing it right. I just question myself as to what "snug" means. I am fairly strong, and snug to me is way different than snug to my wife.
Also, I always forget to loosen it when backing up into my storage or a camp site and this has not been a problem, but has made me wonder if I have it tight enough. But, I must as sway is not a problem.
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Rick Klein
'01 Bambi
'99 Land Rover Disco
I'm using an SOB friction sway control and a Reese equalizer with a 25' twin axel Safari pulled by a '98 Grand Cherokee. I also added helper airbags in the rear. I can still feel the trucks go by, but it's a lot better than without. I am still experimenting with how stiff the sway control should be, as well as how tight the chains should be on the equalizer.