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Old 12-02-2013, 08:10 AM   #43
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Knuff, you should be fine towing your 20' without reinforcing the hitch. Doing so provides additional support against rotational twisting. But the VW/Porsche hitch is very strong and I have experienced no problems after 7 years towing a 19' and a 25' with a Touareg.

You will find that the air suspension will level the trailer. I towed my 19' without WD and used a friction bar, and also used an equalizer hitch when towing with full water since my tank was at the front of the trailer. It towed fine both ways. Hensley make a smaller hitch that might work fine as will a Propride. They are both great for sway. You will find that you may not need as much WD because of the air suspension..

When you get your Pepper, spend some time at the truck scales weighing with your current hitch to see how everything sits loaded and empty.
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:22 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by TinLoaf View Post

The Equal-i-zer worked well, but as Can-Am's studies have shown, it puts an enormous amount of stress on the trailer and hitch when entering pitched driveways because the square bars don't flex. As direct evidence of this, my Equal-i-zer hitch head welds cracked after about three years and 60,000 miles of towing.

Equal-i-zer promptly replaced the head, but I got Can-Am's recommendation on a proper setup and ordered the bare-bones EaZ-Lift with 1,000 pound round tapered bars that properly flex when entering pitched driveways.
My Equalizer hitch cracked in half after 18 months and about 12,000 miles. I was shocked. I had a welder place an emergency weld on it to get us home, then I called EQ company. They immediately sent a new head - no argument. I appreciated it and chalked it up to a mere fault or failure. BUT- now I see you mentioning some specific recommendation from Can-Am. I have asked Andy several questions about TVs and always found him generous with his time considering I am not a customer. Is there anything online you can point to about his recommendation on the EaZ-lift? One hitch cracking is a failure, two hitches cracking is sounding like a design flaw. I also use 1000 lb bars.

BTW and FWIW and IMO, 'Andy' at Can-Am is one of the MOST credible posters on this forum. I can hardly see how mentioning him or his company decreases the credibility of this forum, as was mentioned earlier in this thread. To have a guy who has setup thousands of tow rigs as a resource can only be a good thing. How many other posters here are regularly published authorities on towing?
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Old 12-03-2013, 10:51 PM   #45
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Absolutely, Andy did send me some very good information on using the Cayenne as a TV.
Still, also all the hands on experience from you all is extremely valuable.

What about these 1000lb flexing bars, how do they compare to the regular setup?

What about just going with sway bars and not installing a WD?
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Old 12-04-2013, 05:02 AM   #46
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Is there anything online you can point to about his recommendation on the EaZ-lift?
My correspondence was all through e-mail. If you send me a private message with your e-mail address I can forward the e-mail chain.

It covers why he recommends EaZ-Lift over other brands, and it has to do with more surface area in the sleeve resulting in less wear.

He covers why 1,000 pound bars rather than 600 pound bars for my particular setup and even has a tire recommendation. Good stuff.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:01 AM   #47
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Our first TV came with an aftermarket bolt on (pre Can Am days). One weak point was the 2" square tube. One of the mods I made to was to fabricate and weld on 1/4" side plates.

PS.... these days I much prefer to have the more experienced Can Am folks to do this kind of mod, or better still design and install a custom build.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:58 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by TinLoaf View Post
My correspondence was all through e-mail. If you send me a private message with your e-mail address I can forward the e-mail chain.

It covers why he recommends EaZ-Lift over other brands, and it has to do with more surface area in the sleeve resulting in less wear.

He covers why 1,000 pound bars rather than 600 pound bars for my particular setup and even has a tire recommendation. Good stuff.
Email sent. Thanks a ton!
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:51 AM   #49
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Can-Am runs steel from the receiver down to a point below the vehicle. It's not pretty, but it's functional.

You could probably have a local welding shop do the same thing based on photos.
Interesting to be sure. Regarding the most forward parts, what part of the body is that welded to? Is it a cross member, or the sheet metal of the unibody, or what? (Sorry, I may not know the right terms).

I just listened to an Podcast featuring a Q&A with Andy, and he many times mentioned twisted and damaged receivers and that he often strengthens, modifies and otherwise tweeks them on all vehicles. His expressions of how much force can be applied to these with WD bars is truly startling to me. I am going to be examining my receiver VERY closely this afternoon.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:12 PM   #50
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Another setup by Can-Am RV...

2011 Chevy Traverse hauling a 25SS Safari. Tow package had to be added. Andy used a Class III after-market hitch and reinforced it by welding two angle-irons from just behind the receiver to a cross-brace behind the spare tire. The spare tire mount had to be remounted down a few inches to accommodate the extra supports as can be seen in the photos. Although the Hensley wasn't required, I've been using one since we upgraded from a popup and swear by it. I wouldn't tow with anything else.

For full details and photos check out this thread...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...rse-91344.html






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Old 12-04-2013, 04:16 PM   #51
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Interesting to be sure. Regarding the most forward parts, what part of the body is that welded to? Is it a cross member, or the sheet metal of the unibody, or what? (Sorry, I may not know the right terms).
I've been fortunate to have peeked under many Can Am set up TV's. They have a variety of different ways to make the existing parts stronger/or designing custom builds. All seemed to have a lot of thought that went into the process.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:50 PM   #52
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From what I've seen in the pictures of Andy's hitch setups, he's reinforcing them the exact same way it was done in the 60's and early 70's before manufacturer's starting building bolt-on receivers custom built for specific vehicles. It spreads the weight distribution load, or torque if you will, to a longer section of the tow vehicle frame, or body.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:20 PM   #53
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Mstephens:

Here is a picture of the attachment point under my Q7.

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Old 12-05-2013, 07:22 AM   #54
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Can-Am runs steel from the receiver down to a point below the vehicle. It's not pretty, but it's functional.

You could probably have a local welding shop do the same thing based on photos.
I would caution against such a drastic hitch reinforcement. What would happen if, god forbid, such a vehicle gets rear ended by a big truck? Wouldn't that support bar stick out of the passenger seat?

I am sure as soon as I post this people are going to jump in say no, its safe, etc.

However, we do not have an independent verification of this. When I was buying my Subaru, their website claimed their product was very safe. Yet, there was an independent entity, called IIHS, that would verify Subaru's claim (IIHS runs standard tests on all vehicles, publishes results, and even posts the videos to YouTube). Subaru's claim is independently verified and the proof is online for everyone to see.

We have no independent verification of how such reinforcements/modifications affect the TV -- That's why I do not like modifying the TV, and I will ALWAYS buy a TV that can do the job right out of the dealers lot.
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:30 AM   #55
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....decisions, decisions.

No brainer..


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Old 12-09-2013, 01:04 AM   #56
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Quite frankly, I am still confused. It seems that opinions stretch from
A) don't worry and use the factory hitch and simply pull the small trailer because the pepper will take care of it.
B) add sway control
C) WD and sway control
D) WD, sway control and a trip to Canada

Right now, I am leaning towards option C, just for a piece of mind. I am not sure that I need to reinforce the hitch, simply because I will be pulling only a 20 footer and really not push the limits.

For the hitch, it seems that virtually and brand will do (Reese, EaZ, etc.) and if I really want to spend money, PP or Hensley would be the way to go. With respect to putting stress on the TV and it's hitch, I am not sure whether friction systems or Hensley/PP make any difference. Any suggestions? Less load on the hitch because of WD makes sense. I believe I understand the different philosophy behind Hensley/ PP, just not sure whether it is worth the money?

On the other hand, in Europe, even with heavier trailers, people do not care about WD at all., so why not option A or B?
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