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Old 12-07-2011, 07:04 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by RUMSHIP View Post
Ok I know I shouldn't ask and get dragged into this may lay but here I go anyway. If your talking about slope as getting into a gas station or any other up hill grade from the street, wouldn't your WD bars just transfer more weight to the front of your TV and not bend the A frame? That is after all what their designed to do, isn't it? I'm also not a fan of the duel cam that rease has after mine started to pull of the frame ( the front mounts for the arms ) and twist the arms which made them then cut into the sides of the cam lobes. I don't have pics I know, and I no longer have the set up, seeing no need to keep something that failed. I just think its a poor design. But I'm sure it's been improved and is no longer sold. I knew I should have taken pics before it was removed. Any thoughts?
I had the same issues. I did not like the dual cam either. Never again will I have one.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:07 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by RUMSHIP View Post
Ok I know I shouldn't ask and get dragged into this may lay but here I go anyway. If your talking about slope as getting into a gas station or any other up hill grade from the street, wouldn't your WD bars just transfer more weight to the front of your TV and not bend the A frame? That is after all what their designed to do, isn't it? I'm also not a fan of the duel cam that rease has after mine started to pull of the frame ( the front mounts for the arms ) and twist the arms which made them then cut into the sides of the cam lobes. I don't have pics I know, and I no longer have the set up, seeing no need to keep something that failed. I just think its a poor design. But I'm sure it's been improved and is no longer sold. I knew I should have taken pics before it was removed. Any thoughts?
If it was the U-bolts loosening up, and causing those problems, I had the same trouble, and added a third U-bolt to the cam mount. Since then, I've had no more trouble. Reese should have put three, not two, U-bolts in the kits. There are enough holes pre-drilled in the mount.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:45 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by overlander63
If it was the U-bolts loosening up, and causing those problems, I had the same trouble, and added a third U-bolt to the cam mount. Since then, I've had no more trouble. Reese should have put three, not two, U-bolts in the kits. There are enough holes pre-drilled in the mount.
Yes I agree, there was provision for a 3rd U-bolt. The stresses allowed the cam arms to gradually move along the frame. I couldn't find the bolts locally so once I got the mounts where the needed to be, I tack welded a short piece of bar stock to the frame to prevent the mount from slipping on an earlier SOB.

Reese has since changed the design and went to a bracket that bolts to the frame. Some drilling required :-( The turnbuckle allows for adjustment.
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:21 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUMSHIP View Post
Ok I know I shouldn't ask and get dragged into this may lay but here I go anyway. If your talking about slope as getting into a gas station or any other up hill grade from the street, wouldn't your WD bars just transfer more weight to the front of your TV and not bend the A frame? That is after all what their designed to do, isn't it? I'm also not a fan of the duel cam that rease has after mine started to pull of the frame ( the front mounts for the arms ) and twist the arms which made them then cut into the sides of the cam lobes. I don't have pics I know, and I no longer have the set up, seeing no need to keep something that failed. I just think its a poor design. But I'm sure it's been improved and is no longer sold. I knew I should have taken pics before it was removed. Any thoughts?
Any and all weight transferred to the front axle and trailer axle(s) is accomplished by the flexing of the WD spring bars. Compression of ANY spring doesn't happen for free (energy wise). That compression when going up a drive entrance, for example comes from the relative change in angle between the TT and TV (ultamitely from the TV fuel burned to accomplich the task) and the force exerted by the WD spring bars.
When this occurs, if you were standing at the hitch on the driver's side, the increase in angle and thus WD bar flexion is trying to rotate the TV counter-clockwise (lift the rear of the truck and compress the TV front suspension) and the TT clockwise, (compress the AS suspension, with ALL the pressure at the chain snap up bracket or EQ L-bracket, as well as a twisting force at the hitch head pockets) with the hitch ball being the fulcrum.

All that said, yes some of the flex is released to perform suspension compression. THAT OPENS THE WHOLE OTHER CAN OF WORMS RELATIVE TO BEING OVER TRUCKED!!!! Do you reallly want to go there.
Remember too, that a portion of any weight in the back of the TV (toys, etc) will need to "lifted" along with the rear of the truck in these scenerios, further aggravating the spring bar flex being offset by front TV/AS suspension compression.

Please also note that the example of increases in weight in my previous post is a pretty mild example. When you consider, say a 6" rise in TV front wheels, think about the distance change between the AS frame and the spring bar ends (if they were unhooked from the snap up or L-brackets) . In this scenerio the front hubs and the spring ends are rotating around the rear TV axle. Let's assume a TV wheel base of 135" and a rear overhang (to ball of 60") and spring bars of 30".
A 6" rise in front hub lowers the spring bar tips approx. 4"
An 8" rise = 5.3"
a 12" rise = 7.9"

Don't forget to add the flex already present for distributing your tongue weight on the flat and level. (if the bars were "snapped in place")

Now revisit the chart and extend the slope of the graph to these numbers.
Pressures on the AS frame rise dramatically.

OF COURSE all these true figures are dependent on TV wheelbase, rear overhang, ball to AS axle(s), tongue weight, TV rear axle weight, TV suspension, etc.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:28 AM   #75
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The first problem is getting the new A/S home. All these fancy hitches seem to only be sold mail order. So, I am not going to have a fancy hitch on my car by next Thursday when I go to get my trailer. Can I safely tow my rig home (300mi) without a fancy hitch?

Alternatively----if anyone here knows a shop in the Eugene, Or. area that sells these fancy hitches, I could drag my new rig over to a shop right after I pick it up, and get something installed?

Redwoodguy,
I was faced with the same situation, the need to get my unit a couple of hundred miles to where I lived and no conclusion about which hitch and no ability to resolve the question by the day/time to move the unit. Rather than jumping in with any investment, under considered, I decided to hire a professional to pull and deliver my unit. The expense was minimal and I was confident that everything would go smoothly, that is to say, no risk because of my ignorance and my inability to land on a consensus from the threads on the forums. In the end I was really happy I did it that way because I was comfortable with both the delivery of the unit and my ability to complete my research. I ended up with the 3P. Had a dealer install it and Sean got on the phone with them a couple of times during the install. Install went fine. Then Sean has helped me fine tune the "dial in" adjustments. Seems to me that my ride is better than expected, the clothes are still on the hangers and me and the hook and unhook process has become a thoughtful process (with my check list) but no longer daunting.

Overall I am thrilled with my entire experience from guidance from the forum, purchase of the AS, purchase/install/service on the hitch and camping overall.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:15 AM   #76
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Thanks Peter! There have been tons of great response and I learned a lot. I finally did decide yesterday and we are loading up today for the trip up to Eugene tomorrow to pick up our FC.

In the end, the subject required more experience than I could muster in a week. If funds were no object, the answer would be easy, but around here funds are always a consideration and so the choice became a matter of juggling the compromises, and I don't have enough direct, meaningful experience with trailers to do that.

Both the A/S dealer, and the local hitch installer guy recommended the same hitch. I have to weigh that as a reasonably prudent course then, which probably trumps my current "expertise" (which is about zero!). It might mean that in a year, or after some towing, I will change it, but I think that is now a reasonable risk to take.

We will get the Equal-i-zer installed at the local hitch guy and save a couple hundred over the dealer install. One thing I like about this choice was that given my extreme arthritis in both elbows, the hookup looks nominally a little easier than with some other brands. I actually wasn't looking forward to using leverage pipes to snap chains on and so forth.

For right now, I think it will be ok, and then I can actually accumulate my own direct experience. I can always change it, right?

Thanks for all for the really GREAT replies which helped me a lot. I'm excited to get the new Flying Cloud!
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:21 PM   #77
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Oh my head hurts
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:54 PM   #78
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Not only do I have to worry about damage to my TT because I'm over hitched now I have to worry about the fact that I'm most likely over trucked? What to do? I suppose it's eather buy a VW Jetta and take it to Can Am to have it modified so that it does crack under the overload of pulling my 32', that I'm sure would nether by over hitched or now over trucked. Or it's time to just dead bolt the doors, shutter all the windows and watch the world implode on CNN. It is almost 2012, and you know what they say is going to happen then!
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Old 12-07-2011, 04:12 PM   #79
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Good luck! Let me know if you need any dining or hotel recommendations in the Eugene area. I've only lived here for 30 years but I might have some ideas that are better than McDonalds
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:46 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwoodguy View Post
We will get the Equal-i-zer installed at the local hitch guy and save a couple hundred over the dealer install. One thing I like about this choice was that given my extreme arthritis in both elbows, the hookup looks nominally a little easier than with some other brands. I actually wasn't looking forward to using leverage pipes to snap chains on and so forth.

Redwoodguy,

I think you'll easily hook up the bars by raising the hitch with the power jack enough to hook the bars w/o a lot of arm, but the head ain't light and the bars are hefty also.

Good luck.
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:52 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by RUMSHIP View Post
Not only do I have to worry about damage to my TT because I'm over hitched now I have to worry about the fact that I'm most likely over trucked? What to do? I suppose it's eather buy a VW Jetta and take it to Can Am to have it modified so that it does crack under the overload of pulling my 32', that I'm sure would nether by over hitched or now over trucked. Or it's time to just dead bolt the doors, shutter all the windows and watch the world implode on CNN. It is almost 2012, and you know what they say is going to happen then!
No, it's just too early in the day for that many beers.
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Old 12-07-2011, 08:19 PM   #82
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Or it's time to just dead bolt the doors, shutter all the windows and watch the world implode on CNN. It is almost 2012, and you know what they say is going to happen then!
Im hoping the alians that appear on earth will modify my camper so I can fly through the air to wherever I want to travel.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:25 PM   #83
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We use the Eq and don't like lifting hitches either, so we reattach it to the trailer and leave it stored and locked there when camping. (Of course it's a candidate for theft there but you will be happy if they leave the trailer behind.)

You will have to completely disconnect it from the trailer, but just pull the truck ahead a few inches and reattach it to the trailer with a minimum of lifting, and padlock it. (Don't forget to disconnect everything else, chains, brake cable, elect power cord.)

doug k
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:18 PM   #84
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"(Of course it's a candidate for theft there but you will be happy if they leave the trailer behind.)"
We do the same thing however, I always install the hitch pin because it has a lock. They won't be able to install shank with the pin in it. I also have the ball locked.
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