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Old 06-21-2015, 11:54 AM   #57
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I have been using the stowaway clamp and it does the job -- no slop and no noise. It does require carrying a ratchet as it has to be loosened to remove the hitch bar from the receiver -- takes about 60 seconds to do.



Amazon.com: StowAway Hitch Tightener: Automotive
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:07 AM   #58
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Do you have to torque these down to a specified amount or do you just crank on it with a 3/8" ratchet?

Kelvin
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:32 PM   #59
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Kelvin,

I use a Box wench...I do very snug. Only used on the boat stinger so it comes on and off a lot. Most important is to alternate and tighten equally.

POI...notice it's up-side-down, with a heavy tongue weight, as in AS, I think it would be better to use it as designed. That way the U-bolt would not be supporting the TW and under much less stress.

Bob
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Old 06-29-2015, 02:09 PM   #60
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Mine is upside down because of how the Rock Tamers are mounted. I could move the Rock Tamers mount, but I haven't so far.


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Old 06-30-2015, 06:34 AM   #61
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I use one of the cheap ratchet box wrenches from Harbor Freight and crank the bolts down equally to about as tight as I can with the relatively short wrench. I do have to retighten every day towing.
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:03 PM   #62
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Get a longer wrench or cheater and tighten once.


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Old 07-10-2015, 08:01 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
I can't tell from the pics but was your factory hitch a 2.5" and your replacement a 2"?
They are both the same, 2". And the new Class 5 Curt is doing great. I've towed about 1500 miles with it so far.
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:08 AM   #64
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Larry,
It's pretty much a headache when things don't fit together the way they should. With 1500 miles on the combination, it looks like another problem solved, glad it all worked out.
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Old 07-12-2015, 07:05 AM   #65
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Spot Welds on a Hitch Shank to Remove Play

We are well into our summer trip. I'm very pleased with the new receiver, and especially the 34'er. It tows great and mileage is pretty much thE same as towing the 30'er that we sold.

Life is good

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Larry,

It's pretty much a headache when things don't fit together the way they should. With 1500 miles on the combination, it looks like another problem solved, glad it all worked out.
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Old 07-13-2015, 03:19 PM   #66
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When using the Stowaway Hitch Tightener do you install it after you have hitched up and applied the weight distribution? I have up down and side by side play.

Kelvin
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Old 07-13-2015, 03:34 PM   #67
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I would install before....


But...

With 1200lbs of TW on our Classic I've never had any movement or noise when hitched.

I only use the Stow-away on the boat where the light TW is very noisy and the stinger fits the receiver with a lot more play.

Bob
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:34 PM   #68
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My two upgrades for this year were a new '15 Ram 3500 and an Airsafe Class VI hitch, which came with a 12" bracket to mount my E-quil-izer WD hitch. The Airsafe has a 2" shank and the Ram came with a Class V hitch with a 2.5" receiver and 2' sleeve. The combination AirSafe/E-quil-izer bolted together is 18" long, not counting shank, and about 60 lbs. I found that, when inserted in the sleeve/receiver and pinned, I could grab the back of the hitch combo and move it 3-4" up-down and left-right. Very sloppy tolerances. As we were leaving for a 3000 mile trip I shivved it with some aluminum sheet metal and duct tape (of course!). It helped some, but still sloppy in my opinion. When my engineer son-in-law looked at it, he seemed to think that most of the slack was between the 2" (solid) hitch shank on the AirSafe and the Ram-supplied reducer sleeve. His proposed solution was a 1/4" bead weld front and back affixing the sleeve to the shank. It really is not load-bearing, so might be a bit of over engineering - but I'm always good with that. Besides the additional wear-and-tear caused by the sloppy fit, I also wonder if it negated the WD effect of the E-qual-izer by taking up so much of its forward torque in the slack, rather than transferring it (and the tongue weight) forward to the TV front axle.

Any thoughts? As always, I learn much from the expertise on this forum...

Tim
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:06 AM   #69
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Tim,

FWIW...I noticed no difference in handling or the need to change WD settings after having the sleeve welded in our class five Tow-Beast. I used it on several trips before welding, (it still has about 1/2" play vert & horz), but my primary reason for welding was to keep the pin holes lined-up & keep it from falling out when we un hitched.

Bob
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Old 07-26-2015, 06:32 AM   #70
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Hello Adiredneck, My 13 Super Duty class V receiver was also quite sloppy when using the Ford supplied reducer sleeve. My ProPride shank with Rock Tamer flaps mounted on it would wiggle a bunch. This slop put a twist load on the 5/8" hitch pin which elongated the holes in the receiver and bent the hitch pin.

I found a reducer sleeve made by Curt Mfg. that fit tighter than the Ford one. I had it welded to my Propride 2" shank. We actually "sanded" the 2 1/2 inch reducer sleeve down a few thousandths as the welding made it distort some. We did this to get it to slide easily into the receiver square. My shank now fits into the hitch receiver pretty tight and I can twist the shank with my Rock Tamer and still move the hitch pin freely. There is no twisting forces on the hitch pin, they are all taken by the square members as intended.

Like Robert, welding the reducer sleeve to my ProPride shank did not change any of the hitch settings or affect the way my Airstream tows. I greatly appreciate the no sway advantage of the ProPride hitch, especially going downhills on a windy day.

I read here that some Airstreamers are trading out their OEM hitch receivers for a better built one by Curt Mfg. I have no idea why manufacturers would make such a sloppy fit in the hitch receiver other than cost. But bending a hitch pin scared me.

Getting the slop reduced by welding the reducer sleeve to your hitch shank seems like a good idea to me from my experience.

David
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