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Old 06-17-2015, 07:21 PM   #43
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After getting further into this sloppy factory hitch, I found that I had (when measured at the top of the ball), 1 3/4" of slop on the vertical (pitch axis), on the side to side (yaw) axis, there was 1". I found that there was evough slop in this lashup that the tow bar was actually pivoting in the 5/8" hitch pin.....not good, in my opinion.
So instead of trying to weld, shim, etc., I bought a new Curt, Class 5 reciever, and installed it today. I did have to change the height of the ball mount to mate up with the 19" or so tongue height, but not a big problem..

The important thing to me at least was, I down have 3/4" vertical movement, and 5/8" side to side.....

I think I'm happy......we'll know next week, when we leave for a 3 month trip to Indiana, the to Las Vegas. Here's a coulple pics of the new hitch.

LarryClick image for larger version

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Larry;
Just use a couple of shims like I did. I measured .064" between shank and receiver, and made two .060" shims, one drilled 5/8"for the pin. One end is bent over 90 deg. to prevent it being 'swallowed' and for easy removal.
I still have .004"clearance, which gives a modicum of play, and I grease the shank when I install it. No rattle, no play, and it comes out easily.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:39 PM   #44
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I can't tell from the pics but was your factory hitch a 2.5" and your replacement a 2"?
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:26 PM   #45
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Stop the slop and she tows a lot nicer with a lot less noise. No more elongated pin hole.


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Old 06-17-2015, 09:06 PM   #46
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A few months ago m.hony recommended the clamps that he posted with a few pictures. These things work awesome. If you get the same clamps you will not have a problem they work great. You have to turn them upside down so you're tightening from the top.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:47 PM   #47
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The receiver square hole was "wallowed out"!!!! That allowed the hitch bar to move.... A lot!!!
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:53 AM   #48
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I tried two different clamps, I clamped them from the side, and I clamped them from the top. Both of them were just fine, until, I either applied the brakes, or made a turn.....I may not be a rocket scientist, but I am fairly congnicent of how things work...

For what every it's worth.

Larry



Quote:
Originally Posted by No. 13 View Post
A few months ago m.hony recommended the clamps that he posted with a few pictures. These things work awesome. If you get the same clamps you will not have a problem they work great. You have to turn them upside down so you're tightening from the top.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:58 AM   #49
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You are exactly right! Actually, the elongated hole was caused by a hitch reciever that was "out of specs". It allowed the tow bar to "pivot", on the hitch pin, and over 107,000 miles enlarged both ends of the reciever. Due to the nature of the pivot point, the hole continually got more and more elongated....
I think the problem is solved, finally.

Larry

Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
Stop the slop and she tows a lot nicer with a lot less noise. No more elongated pin hole.


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Old age is coming at a really bad time!

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Old 06-18-2015, 08:02 AM   #50
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Both hitch recievers are 2". The new Curt hitch is a class 5, the Dodge factory hitch is considered a class 3/4. There really isn't much comparison as to the quality and construction between the two..
If and when I order a new truck, I'll order it without the hitch, and install the class 5 myself.

Larry



Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
I can't tell from the pics but was your factory hitch a 2.5" and your replacement a 2"?
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:30 AM   #51
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I had to re-tighten the anti- rattle device several times. It kinda sorta bent and settled to conform to the shape of the hitch receiver, shank, and Rocks Tamers mounting brackets gradually. After a while, it stayed tight.


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Old 06-18-2015, 10:05 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I have a 2010 Tundra and the receiver tends to be slightly larger than the Equalizer head shank. Is it possible to have some spot welds put on the hitch shank as shims to remove the play? I have a grinder at home that I could use to grind away the spot welds to customize the fit.

I know there is a bolt on device to remove the play but you have to unbolt it every time you want to remove the head. That doesn't sound too convenient.

Kelvin
Yes, worked well on the 2" shank for the 1/2 ton and additionally spotted the adapter for the 3/4 T. I finished the fitting with a file rather than a grinder ... too easy to remove too much material and then it needs to be re-spotted.
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:17 PM   #53
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I joined the take out the slop group sort of. I mad to shims for my 3/4 ton. One for the reduction insert and one for the Hensley stinger.
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Old 06-20-2015, 02:01 PM   #54
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One last hitch update, hopefully, the problem is resolved.
After installing the Curt Class 5 receiver, I took the AirSafe towbar to my welder/machinist buddy. He welded the elongated holes shut in the towbar in the tow bar. Then drilled a new hole in the tow bar (21/32, I think), then we reinstalled the AirSafe.

What a difference! I now have about 1/4" play side to side, and vertically! I have to tap the hitch pin to get it through the new holes. I think this will loosen a bit after a few hundred miles of towing...I don't need a clamp, and I really feel good about this change.

For whatever it's worth.

Larry
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:14 PM   #55
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That 1/4" will be 3/8"...


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Old 06-21-2015, 06:34 AM   #56
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I would be surprised if it wasn't. But that's a lot better than 1" horizontal and 1 3/4 vertical
Larry

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That 1/4" will be
3/8"...


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