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Old 06-03-2015, 09:10 PM   #29
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I welded a piece of thin steel to the side of mine and filed it to fit.
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Old 06-03-2015, 10:49 PM   #30
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I use Airstream Ball Lube on everything. No problems here.
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:36 AM   #31
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I would be worried about so much slop that is bends the pin. That is not a normal amount of slop and I think that warrants a new receiver being installed. Welding these receivers makes me a little worried about changing the properties of the metal. I have gone so far as to weld a nut to a receiver extension and then using a bolt to take up the slack. This was used on an extension piece that held some steps for a slide in camper. The modified piece was not used to pull a trailer.

Perry

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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
This thread is applicable to my sloppy shank to receiver fit I had a couple of years ago. I discovered a bent hitch pin while towing. Not good. I found my shank fit so poorly in the receiver that the hitch pin is what resisted torsional forces.

The situation was made worse in my case as my Super Duty came with a 2 1/2 receiver as well as a reducer sleeve to get to 2" square. There was clearance slop between both members. Again, the hitch pin was getting pinched, and the holes in the receiver were getting elongated.

I found a Curt Mfg. reducer sleeve that fit rather tightly in the Super Duty, better than the Ford supplied one. Then I welded the Curt reducer sleeve to the Pro Pride shank eliminating any slop between those two members. The heat of the weld distorted the Curt reducer enough that I had some serious power sanding to finally get a loose enough fit that I could assemble the shank to the receiver. These steps eliminated most of the slop.

I can now twist my shank using my Rock Tamer bars and the hitch pin stays free, or unbound. And my hitch pin is free and unbound when the trailer is connected and weight bars tightened. I do not believe the hitch pin was designed for any torsional forces, only sheer with the acceleration and braking forces.

So if the slop is great enough that it binds the hitch pin, I recommend figuring out a way to eliminate it. Weld build up on the shank, and then ground to a good fit would work in my view. I would use a bead weld, not a spot weld. You need some good bearing area so you don't wear the receiver. I also purchased a better hitch pin for added security. I even keep a grade 8 bolt in the tool box just in case I see anything unusual with the hitch pin.

By the way, I could not detect any difference in towing or noise before and after I eliminated the sloppy fit.

David
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Old 06-04-2015, 07:55 AM   #32
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"It always seems to be some jerk in a giant pick up truck that does it."

I resemble that remark.

Right now it is out. But when we leave for the summer it will probably be in until we get back in October. Stay well clear of the back of "giant pick up trucks".
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:59 AM   #33
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Smile spot welds

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have my hitch on all the time. saved my rear bumper twice ! people texting while driving in bumper to bumper traffic have run into the back of my truck and damaged there front ends! got what they deserved! hitch is on full time now.
Insurance cos. will have field day if leaving hitch on and doing damage plus so will cops, or causing personal injury.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:38 AM   #34
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Budweiser can... Eeerrrr... Uh....shim stock.... Also handy for muffler patches and gaskets on Harley's.
Yep, I have been using beer can shims to seal the pipes on Ironhead heads for years.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:45 AM   #35
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I drink my IPA out of bottles

I think we have so 7 up cans, I'll try cutting a some strips to see how it works.

Kelvin
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:57 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by philipsinewe View Post
If you are using weight distribution, the play should be a nonissue. You are lifting close to 1000 pounds and the bar is in, pretty much a total bind. Isn't it?

What about side to side stinger movement?
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:59 AM   #37
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Quote:
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I drink my IPA out of bottles

I think we have so 7 up cans, I'll try cutting a some strips to see how it works.

Kelvin

IPA, yup good stuff. Aluminum shims, me thinks too soft to hold up.
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Old 06-04-2015, 12:46 PM   #38
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My aluminum shims were too soft and got beat thin in about one trip. I went to Home Depot and got some Simpson Strong Ties metal mending plates for under a buck. They are steel and seem to hold up much better. One thickness shim on the bottom and one on the side seems to take all the slop out of my hitch system. My hitch receiver is on a Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2012.

I have an Andersen hitch system. When I was at the Andersen plant in Idaho Falls, ID they told me that they buy the shank shaft material pre made and have no actual control over it's dimensions. They indicated it is a standard stock industrial metal product. They said that many of the receivers built seem to be oversized and of course they also have no control whatsoever about the receiver socket size which comes on the rigs as delivered to the customer.

I don't recall this being a problem in the "old days" but seems to be common now.
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:03 PM   #39
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I found some flat washers in my parts bins but they were too thick. How thick are the Simpson Strong Ties?

Kelvin
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:32 PM   #40
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Old 06-08-2015, 07:05 PM   #41
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So far, I've bought two of those clamps, and neither of them work for any longer than it takes to turn the first corner, then, either the side force, or the vertical force, moves the tow bar and loosens the whole thing again.
I've had enough of this, Wednesday, I'm taking it to a machinist friend who will build up the tow bar, on one side, and the top, then machine it down to give a precision fit. We're shooting for about .010 clearance, on the top and sides. At the same time, he's going to build up the hitch pin holes, and redrill them to the proper size to accept the 5/8" htch pin.
This should take care of the sloppy fit....

For whatever it's worth.

Larry
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:40 AM   #42
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Larry;
Just use a couple of shims like I did. I measured .064" between shank and receiver, and made two .060" shims, one drilled 5/8"for the pin. One end is bent over 90 deg. to prevent it being 'swallowed' and for easy removal.
I still have .004"clearance, which gives a modicum of play, and I grease the shank when I install it. No rattle, no play, and it comes out easily.
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