Safty chain

[imagine]

stupid question, probably been covered, but how much slack should the safty chain have?
I have been told it dosen't need any at all, to give it plenty?? And where do most of you hook the safty brake wire.
the dealer said that it was ok to just twist the chain until you feel comfortable with the amount of sag.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by imagine

stupid question, probably been covered, but how much slack should the safty chain have?
I have been told it dosen't need any at all, to give it plenty?? And where do most of you hook the safty brake wire.
the dealer said that it was ok to just twist the chain until you feel comfortable with the amount of sag.

Ideally, you should have enough slack in the chain to be able to turn the rig without binding or breaking the chain, but able to keep the tongue of the trailer off the ground if the trailer comes off the ball mount.
You can hook the cable for the breakaway switch somewhere secure on the tow vehicle so that if the trailer comes off and before it gets away, it will actuate the trailer brakes, hopefully stopping it in time to avoid turning a disaster into a catastrophe.

[bake315]

I'm amazed on a daily basis on how many trailers I see where they are using the safety chains, but not crossing them.

[bobechs]

Amazed?

What amazes me is the trailers I see on the highway dragging chains, wires and running gear on the pavement. The chains make quite a show at night, but I don't stick around to watch.

[overlander63]

Yes, the crossing of the chains was something of a habit that I do so much, I never even thought to include it in my post...

[85MH325]

And having lost a 15' Trillium 4500 fiberglass camper trailer at 65mph last spring, when it jumped the hitch ball from having a worn hitchball socket, I can tell you first hand just how important those chains are! I got the rig stopped and the only damage incurred was the electrical pigtail being ground through, and one safety chain being ground off the tongue. It was a miracle that the bouncing trailer didn't take anyone else out, and it stayed on it's wheels... although I thought for a while it was going over onto it's side....

USE YOUR CHAINS and HOOK THEM UP PROPERLY!

Roger

[sovereignrwe]

Safety Chain Towing Tips

• SAFETY CHAINS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW IN ALL 50 STATES -Please check with your state's Department of Transportation for their minimum requirements.
  
• Equip your trailer with two (2) safety chains equipped with latches to prevent the hooks from disconnecting from the trailer.
  
• Safety chains should be installed in a crisscross fashion under the hitch of your trailer. This is intended to keep the hitch from hitting the ground in the event of a failure.
  
• Allow only enough slack in each chain to allow for non-binding turns.
  
• The chains should be short enough to hold the tongue of your trailer from touching the ground should it become disconnected.
  
• Make sure the safety chains are connected to a secure point on either your trailer hitch or the frame of the tow vehicle.
  

[markparker22]

Imagine:
Thank you for starting this thread. "There is no such thing as a stupid question." Your question caused me to review the safety chain set-up I use on my Pullrite hitch. Pullrite hitches operate differently from the classic hitch. Because of the Pullrite design where the Weight Distribution bars connect the Trailer hitch to the receiver in a "rigid" fashion (and the receiver is at the end of a long radius arm that pivots under the Tow Vehicle) it became obvious to me that the safety chains should be tight. The reason they should be tight is that the Pullrite hitch loses its control method if the trailer hitch becomes seperated from the receiver ball far enough for the Weight Distribuition arms to slide out of the Receiver. In an emergency separation if the Weight Distribution arms seperate from the receiver then the radial arm under the Tow Vehicle is no longer rigid with the Trailer hitch (Trailer itself also pivots) and the radial arm will slam into the end stops on either side of the radius track under the Tow Vehicle when your emergency stop occurs.

The tight connection of the saftety chains described here is meant for Pullrite hitches only because of their unique design.

[bake315]

Originally Posted by markparker22

Imagine:
Thank you for starting this thread. "There is no such thing as a stupid question." Your question caused me to review the safety chain set-up I use on my Pullrite hitch. Pullrite hitches operate differently from the classic hitch. Because of the Pullrite design where the Weight Distribution bars connect the Trailer hitch to the receiver in a "rigid" fashion (and the receiver is at the end of a long radius arm that pivots under the Tow Vehicle) it became obvious to me that the safety chains should be tight. The reason they should be tight is that the Pullrite hitch loses its control method if the trailer hitch becomes seperated from the receiver ball far enough for the Weight Distribuition arms to slide out of the Receiver. In an emergency separation if the Weight Distribution arms seperate from the receiver then the radial arm under the Tow Vehicle is no longer rigid with the Trailer hitch (Trailer itself also pivots) and the radial arm will slam into the end stops on either side of the radius track under the Tow Vehicle when your emergency stop occurs.

The tight connection of the saftety chains described here is meant for Pullrite hitches only because of their unique design.

Right, so if you try to connect your safety chains to some part of the tow vehicle other than the pivoting radius arm of the hitch itself, you've effectively canceled out the pivoting characteristic of the Pullrite.

[markparker22]

Coriolis1:
Yes, the Pullrite saftety chains must be connected to the radius arm itself. The Pullrite design has substantial safety chain connection points on the radius arm.

[jcanavera]

I've been told that twisting the chains to shorten them is not a good practice and can have some adverse affect on the weight they can carry. I'll check this out further for a little more info.

At least on newer Airstreams, the final link has a removeable pin and a cotter key. You can connect that link to a link further up the chain and effectively shorten the chain. The excess I just wire tie to the existing chain. It works great. I did this on my 2001 Safari and on the current Classic that I have today.

Jack

[Happycampers]

Twisting chains is a bad thing to do. One of the main things I learned in the oil field, a good way to brake a chain and get hurt fast. Marvin

[imagine]

Thanks a LOT for all the HELP!! Some great information, and ideas!!