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Old 07-13-2011, 04:00 PM   #29
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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2003 25' Classic
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Originally Posted by silverman22 View Post
Thanks! I'm definitely going to do that, plus I just ordered the Sherline tongue weight scale, just to have on hand. Cheapest was propride, which has it for $119.
S22,

Don't know what the factory tongue weight for your rig is, but whatever it is.... it's LIGHT.
When we got the 25 Classic I figured I'd be safe at between 750 and 850lbs.
For whatever reason when I ordered the Shurline scale I got the 2000lb model, glad I did as my tongue weight regularly tops 1100lbs.

FWIW

Bob
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Old 07-13-2011, 04:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by silverman22 View Post
Thanks! I'm definitely going to do that, plus I just ordered the Sherline tongue weight scale, just to have on hand. Cheapest was propride, which has it for $119.

Thank you for the order, sir.

All of the above is excellent. Especially the "resonant frequency" comment from Bart.

I have been hearing this "marketing" term more and more often about hitches with "built in sway control." This is the first time I've heard of it being in the manual.

What exactly do they mean by the term "built in sway control?"

Wouldn't EVERY sway control hitch have "built in sway control?"
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
...
For whatever reason when I ordered the Shurline scale I got the 2000lb model, glad I did as my tongue weight regularly tops 1100lbs...Bob
The Shurline scale is a model of simplicity. It is a cylinder and piston with a surface area of 1 square inch pushing a hydraulic jack oil. It uses a standard pressure gauge calibrated in pounds/square inch. You can easily change the capacity of the scale by swapping out the gauge since the displayed weight is an exact function of the pressure applied to the gauge. These gauges are more accurate mid-scale, so the 0-2000 gauge is reasonably accurate when the weight is between 500-1500 pounds. if you wanted to weight something that is close to 3000#, put on a 0-5000# gauge.

You can get a ballpark weight load on a wheel by placing the Shurline on the saddle of a floor jack and with everything safely blocked, jack up the axle close to the wheel and take a reading when the tire is just free of the ground.

Public scales such as those found at co-ops and grain elevators are typically a single section platform that gives only a total weight. If the scale master has the time and is willing, you can get individual weights but the process is a lot simpler if you go to a CAT scale. For those who have not done this before, the scale is segmented to provide individual weights for the steer, drive and trailer axles. Pull up so that the front axle is more or less centered on the front platform, this will put your rear axle on the 2nd segment and the trailer axles on the 3rd. The operator has a camera to see when you're on the scale and there is an intercom with a call button that is placed where the big rig drivers can reach it. For that reason and the noisy environment, I drop off the wife with her cell phone and she goes in to tell the operator what we're doing. Since our rigs are lighter than the big trucks, they sometimes have me pull forward or back a bit until they get a stable reading.
She pays and I pull off and pick her up. If I want to try an adjustment, I pull to an area away from where I might be in the big trucks' way and make my adjustment and reweigh. I think $10 is fairly universal with a $1-2 reweigh fee if done at the same scale within 24 hours. Once you get it where you want it, you shouldn't have to visit the scales again unless you change something significant.

You may want to get a weight of the solo TV as a baseline, then go back with the TT in tow.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post

I have been hearing this "marketing" term more and more often about hitches with "built in sway control." This is the first time I've heard of it being in the manual.

What exactly do they mean by the term "built in sway control?"

Wouldn't EVERY sway control hitch have "built in sway control?"
Sean, I'm guessing they are trying to tell people WD is NOT the same as sway control. I've had people complain to me they are experiencing sway with their trailer, and they have sway control. I walk outside, and see they have a Husky, Curt, Robin (fill in your favorite WD system here). Um, no, sir, you don't have sway control, you have weight distribution.
"Isn't that the same thing?"
Then the remedial training begins...
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Old 07-13-2011, 08:04 PM   #33
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
I have been hearing this "marketing" term more and more often about hitches with "built in sway control." This is the first time I've heard of it being in the manual.

What exactly do they mean by the term "built in sway control?"
Wouldn't EVERY sway control hitch have "built in sway control?"
What about the TV's with "built-in" sway control, lot's of buzz about that also.

Boy we're all a little redundant now.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:23 PM   #34
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Well, we bought a 1999 Excella classic, widebody last year...we had the same miserable time trying to figure out why we were getting the porpoise affect also...we went through most of the suggestions as previously mentioned...after a lot of sweat and tears...we bought a airsafe hitch...class VII (2 1/2 inch shank) (pull with 2011 Chev.2500 Duramax)...don't have a problem anymore...we attached our equalizer hitch to the airsafe hitch...and the bridges and concrete roads have no adverse affect on the ride....smooth baby smooth....

The porpoise or rocking motion is extremely dangerous and it also pops rivets and can crack the skin...just behind propane tanks in the front...I agree with your wife on this....it scares you to death...hope you find the answer ...not familiar with the HA
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