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Old 09-30-2011, 08:06 AM   #1
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Reese installation advice?

Our International 27FB is in storage in Dallas, and sitting in a pile of boxes under the front of it is a new, unseen Reese 66073 hitch setup.

We're heading to Dallas in a few weeks, and I'll install this hitch before we take off for our first official trip. Finally.

I don't have a well stocked tool kit in the trailer yet. I bought some basic tools, of course, but there are no large wrenches in it, for example.

Can any of you experienced hitch people tell me what tools I will need to have with me to install, adjust, maintain etc. this hitch?

Would also be helpful if you could estimate about how long I should figure to install it the first time. Is this a fifteen minute thing, or is it going to set us back half a day. That kind of info.

Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:08 AM   #2
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Thumbs up Study up...

Gringo,

Hope this helps..http://www.americanrvcompany.com/ass...tion/66073.pdf

Bob
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:47 AM   #3
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Thanks, that was a big help.
Led me on to look up the sway control part of the installation, too.

One thing that I am not clear on is on the drawings, and instructions, for the sway control brackets...they show lock nuts between the plate and the frame. These are the thread-cutting bolts.

Do they have nuts spacing that plat out away from the frame? Does that sound correct? Not sure why the drilling of holes and using thread cutting bolts if it's a press fit.

I guess maybe I understand everything except that one little bit, about those lock nuts.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:38 AM   #4
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Gringo

our EAZ-Lift had bolts that went through the A frame for the trunnion bar brackets. I know this because the guy used the already drilled holes and used my old bolts because the ones that came with the EAZ Lift were way too long. I guess it will just be whether the Reese is press fit or needs drilling. I would think that it would be a tough go to use thread cutting bolts to get through that A Frame steel but that's just a very uneducated guess on my part.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:45 AM   #5
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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I was cornfused too.....DUH

BUT we don't have a C-channel frame....
The self threading must be used because of the box frame..very slowly with plenty of lube. Had to use the same style with the haha brackets.

C-CHANNEL DUAL CAM HP FRAME PLATE INSTALLATION
NOTE: Some C-Channel frames may have square outside corners that do not allow the frame plate to contact the bottom of the frame. For these type of frames a 1⁄2” flat washer (Not Supplied) is required between the outside of the trailer frame and the frame plate. The bottom of the frame plate MUST contact the bottom of the trailer frame.
1. With the C-clamps still in place, center punch (2) holes in the frame for each bracket.
2. Drill (2) 17/32” holes in each side of the frame where the punched center marks were made. The use of a center drill or small pilot hole may be very helpful prior to final drilling.
3. Install the (2) supplied 1⁄2-13 x 1 1⁄2” Bolts, 1⁄2” Lock Washers & 1⁄2” Nuts (1tems 5,6 & 7) figure 13. Repeat for opposite side and torque (4) 1⁄2-13 Bolts to 85 ft-lb.
4. Install 1⁄2-13 Hex Bolts onto the 1⁄2-13 X 3 1⁄2” Square Head Bolts and Install into the frame brackets as shown in figure 13.
5. Tighten the Set Screw until it contacts the trailer frame. Then proceed to tighten 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 turn (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SET SCREW). Tighten the Jam Nut preventing the set screw from backing out while in use. Repeat for other side of trailer frame.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:40 AM   #6
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It's totally clear until that step 3. There's no mention of cutting threads, and the drawing would seem to put the lock nut against the plate and the frame, but there's no mention of which way to tighten the lock nut...it could spin up against the bracket plate and not be able to turn in the drilled hole in the frame, it seems....following those instructions.

Say, you hit the 85 ft. lbs torque within a half a rotation of the bolt...
because of the lock nut.
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:12 PM   #7
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Here's some pics that may help.

Tools: I like to be self-sufficient, the tools I used to set things up go with me on the road.
A box end wrench or socket that fits ball nut. Ball shouldn't come loose, but...
A box or open end wrench and a big crescent wrench that fits ball mount attaching bolts
The crescent wrench needs to fit outer nut on cam yoke arm also
These are pretty much single purpose tools for me that supplement a standard tool kit.

A half day is a fair estimate to install and adjust, access to a big open parking lot for the final adjustments is beneficial. Don't plan anything else for that day. ;-)

The cam yoke arm bracket is attached to the box frame with 2 self-threading bolts. The back side of the bracket is secured with a bolt that jams against the frame and is locked with a nut. See pics

Before I drilled for the self-threading bolts, I assembled everything "finger tight". The yoke arms were loosely adjusted mid-way and the spring bars in place with minimal tension. I then pulled forward about 100' along a stripe line in the parking lot to get everything in a straight line, made sure the spring bar saddles were seated squarely on the cams, and then drilled and installed the 2 bolts on each side securing the brackets. I then went back and refined all the adjustments securing everything as I went.

When done, the TV and TT will be essentially level fore to aft. I found the 4th link on the chain to be correct for me, the spring bars are essentially parallel to the frame with about 1.5" of deflection. With the rig in a straight line, ensure the cam yoke arms are adjusted so the saddles are squarely over the cams with the springs under normal tension. Note: I replaced the stock 1200# bars with 800# bars as I found the former too stiff. I then made a trip to the Cat Scales to dial in the ball angle to get the best weight distribution.

If your TV has a self leveling feature, be sure to turn it off before starting the adjustments.
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:43 PM   #8
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Thanks for the hints. I got an email back from Reese techs, saying the nuts and washers are for C channel frames. Whatever those are.

So looks like I need to buy a drill, too.
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:10 PM   #9
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Went right by me too...
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringo
Thanks for the hints. I got an email back from Reese techs, saying the nuts and washers are for C channel frames. Whatever those are.

So looks like I need to buy a drill, too.
You should have these instructions packed with the hitch parts. If not, PM me and I'll email you a copy... There are some bolts, nuts and washers used with a C channel since you can get to the back side of those. You must use the self tapping bolts on the square tubing ours are made of. In both cases the bolt and jam nut are used on the back side. Also note there is a preferred orientation for the mounting plate, but they can be reversed if something else on the frame interferes with it's needed placement.

If you get a stout enough cordless drill, you can always use it to set and park your corner stabilizers (note: I did not call them jacks ;-) ).
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