Reese friction anti-sway bar broke

[Phantom]

I have searched for info on these friction anti-sway bars but can't find any.
I have a Reese torsion bar (square steel) weight distribution hitch with a flat rectangular friction-type anti-sway bar. [10,000 lb rating, 600 lb. hitch weight... don't know the model name or number]. My application is for towing a 007 219' Bambi with a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 all-wheel-drive. Everything has worked fine until I loosened the sway bar too much and dropped it. One of the 'brake pads' fell out and broke in half. I slid it back in and continued using the sway bar. I made a fairly tight turn going forward and heard a bad snap-popping noise. The outer flat metal bar, which applies pressure to the pads when the handle is turned... had gotten a bad outward bend in it! I used a small sledge to semi-straighten the bar, then glued both 'pads' back in with Gorilla Glue. I can still use the bar, but the pads don't seat as tight and flat against the inner sliding bar because everything is bent. Is their a fix?... or better option for my relatively light-weight application (trailer is 4500 lbs. max.) Do these things need to be removed when backing and turning sharply? Advice would be appreciated.
Pete

[HowieE]

If you call Reese Customer Service they should be able to give you good info.
800 521 0510

If you can ask for Kirt.

[SteveH]

I've been told the bar should be removed before backing the trailer because a very tight turn could cause it to bind and break. Never had the problem myself, but that's what I was told.

[VIKING]

The end of the bar probably caught on the broken end of the pad inside of the mechanism, and caused it to bend. You will hear some folks say that these are no good on wet, icy, or slippery roads, as they can hamper the rigs ability to turn without loss of traction. True, but when used properly they will provide some degree of sway-reduction. I just back off the tension a hair when in those situations, along with a healthy dose of slowdown!
You may want to change to a better type of anti-sway mechanism, rather than replacing this one with the same. I'll look forward to what some of the more experienced members have to say about this.


Do you really have a 219' Bambi? I would love to see the pics of that!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Rich the Viking

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Phantom

I have searched for info on these friction anti-sway bars but can't find any.
I have a Reese torsion bar (square steel) weight distribution hitch with a flat rectangular friction-type anti-sway bar. [10,000 lb rating, 600 lb. hitch weight... don't know the model name or number]. My application is for towing a 007 219' Bambi with a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 all-wheel-drive. Everything has worked fine until I loosened the sway bar too much and dropped it. One of the 'brake pads' fell out and broke in half. I slid it back in and continued using the sway bar. I made a fairly tight turn going forward and heard a bad snap-popping noise. The outer flat metal bar, which applies pressure to the pads when the handle is turned... had gotten a bad outward bend in it! I used a small sledge to semi-straighten the bar, then glued both 'pads' back in with Gorilla Glue. I can still use the bar, but the pads don't seat as tight and flat against the inner sliding bar because everything is bent. Is their a fix?... or better option for my relatively light-weight application (trailer is 4500 lbs. max.) Do these things need to be removed when backing and turning sharply? Advice would be appreciated.
Pete

Your half way there.

You can add the Reese "dual cam" sway control, which works on torsion, not friction, to your rig.

The dual cam out performs the friction type sway control, hands down.

Backing up, or going forward, makes no difference, with the dual cam.

Andy

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

You can add the Reese "dual cam" sway control, which works on torsion, not friction, to your rig.

Torsion defined is a twisting FORCE. The force must be applied by something.
The torsion is applied by friction between the weight distribution bars and the cams. Still friction. If that weren't the case the hitch would still work when the cams are lubricated. Once the torsional force applied by the hitch is exceeded the trailer will sway.

A friction sway bar ALSO operates by applying a counteracting torsion to the sway torsion.

Originally Posted by From Reese product support:

Can I grease the Dual Cam Sway Control (DCSC)?

Do not grease the cam and cam arms. The Dual Cam was designed to use metal-to-metal friction. Heavy greasing of the cam and cam arm surfaces with affect performance.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Reese says that the torsion increases or decreases, depending on the position of the cam on the saddle.

Since the torsion always wants to return to zero, or minimum as the case may be, the cams are encouraged to return to the straight line position on the cams, everytime the torsion increases, for whatever reason, hence, the "straight line".

Andy

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Reese says that the torsion increases or decreases, depending on the position of the cam on the saddle.

Since the torsion always wants to return to zero, or minimum as the case may be, the cams are encouraged to return to the straight line position on the cams, everytime the torsion increases, for whatever reason, hence, the "straight line".

Andy

Okay, agreed. Torsion, a twisting force, can only increase or decrease through FRICTION. If that is what Reese says they are saying that friction increases or decreases depending on the position of the cam in the saddle. {Reference their statement that the Dual-Cam was designed to use metal-to-metal FRICTION. (emphasis added by ME)}

The only reason I point this out is that it isn't correct to say that the Dual-Cam uses torsion and not friction.

BOTH the sway bar and the Dual-Cam apply counteracting torsion through friction.

[boondockdad]

no doubt, friction (anti)sway bars have been around a long time

but after doing this to mine in an emergency maneuver, I went to Hensley Arrow.
Truck-load of info here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-26279.html

You might also consider the ProPride.
There's a rapidly growing database for that hitch here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-57179.html

And no 'friction' issues to deal with...

[2airishuman]

this of course IS the take home message...

Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff

...BOTH the sway bar and the Dual-Cam apply counteracting torsion through friction.

and while NOT prominent in the R literature, the F word is clearly buried in the DETAILS of using that contraption...

the reference to lubing/vs relying on friction has been brought to light here several times,

withOUT suggesting anything negative, it's just a fact regarding the contraption.
________

now for lighter fare...

4 those who get their undies in a twist when discussing these issues...

it may seem nutty but having dealt with many folks IN torsion...

it's clear there is a LOT of friction and HEAT involved.

trust me you don't wanna experience torsion like this...
_____________

and sometimes folks USE that word to mystify a contraption,

instead of just sticking to the obvious name for what IT is...

like trying to build a better helical torsion spring rodent control device...

mickey Bware...

the T term is applied in many ways, even in physics!

but engineering is a betta way to think of it.

pick the ONE that applies to the cams/bar bends...

the R cams (under compression/tension) and spring bars CLEARLY rely on friction to dampen sway ...

while the SHAPE of the cams and bend (notch) in the bars operate like the swinging doors into a kitchen or bar...

but the doors and their torsionally stressed springs with friction control and automatic CENTERING...

still DON't prevent the drunk or rowdy from swaying in...

or out.

cheers
2air'

[boondockdad]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

trust me you don't wanna experience torsion like this...


cheers
2air'

leave it to 2air, to go bustin'-balls in a hitch thread... <wink>

[Phantom]

Thanks Andy... Will I need to get a new hitch receiver part?... to use the dual-cam type anti-sway bars? Any idea of cost to upgrade? (NOT asking for a quote.... just an idea).
Thanks,
Pete

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Phantom

Thanks Andy... Will I need to get a new hitch receiver part?... to use the dual-cam type anti-sway bars? Any idea of cost to upgrade? (NOT asking for a quote.... just an idea).
Thanks,
Pete

Pete,

The dual cam has nothing to do with the hitch box.

I cannot quote prices on anything we sell or might sell, for public view.

Andy
t

[SteveH]

Pete, If you have the late model bars with the curve at the ends, you will need this: Dual Cam High Performance Sway Control - New Design 26002 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

Or, if you have the early model bars that are straight on the ends, you need this: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-SC~26000.htm

You can actually use the early model cams with the late model bars, and they will be easier to adjust and you won't have to drill holes in your trailer's "A" frame tongue.

[Phantom]

Thanks a bunch Steve... really helpful info... the pictures really help me get an idea of what I need. I have the newer bars with the curve in the tips, but I like the idea of the older style dual-cams being easier to adjust. I might go that way. Now let me know about the map...

[HowieE]

I would not recommend a mix and match system. The older Dual Cam trailing arms only have a single ware surface were as the newer Straight Line arms can be reversed side to side as the ware thus doubling the life expectancy.

As for easy of adjusting the newer Straight Line arms are quite simple to adjust. With both nuts that hold the cam into the yoke adjust the WD system until yo have it as you want. Now while hitched up drive in a straight line for at least 75 ft. and stop. Tap the yoke and cam arms with a 2 pound hammer to be sure the cams are seated in the arms and then tighten the nut inside the yoke by hand. Once it is tight tighten the outer nut with a wrench. It is a good idea to lift up on the shaft of the drivers side bolt when tightening it to insure the cam is not at an angle to the arm. This is a problem with the sloppy machining of the key way slot in manufacturing.

In all cases after installing the newer arms mark them as to which side they go on again due to sloppy manufacturing they are not the same lengths and crossing them will cause sway rather than reduce it.

[SteveH]

I've owned both types in the past, having just gotten RID of the new type in favor of the PP. They both wear on the front and the rear of the cam. Also from my experience, the older type control sway better.

There's no question in my mind, I would get the older type. But, your mileage may vary.

[safari 28]

Originally Posted by finalcutjoe

leave it to 2air, to go bustin'-balls in a hitch thread... <wink>

Damn, this one had me in tears!!

[Phantom]

Hi Safari 28.... Fellow Michigander! We're from N. of KaZoo... Delton. Are you on the road this winter?