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Old 11-25-2009, 04:02 PM   #1
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Reese friction anti-sway bar broke

I have searched for info on these friction anti-sway bars but can't find any.
I have a Reese torsion bar (square steel) weight distribution hitch with a flat rectangular friction-type anti-sway bar. [10,000 lb rating, 600 lb. hitch weight... don't know the model name or number]. My application is for towing a 007 219' Bambi with a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 all-wheel-drive. Everything has worked fine until I loosened the sway bar too much and dropped it. One of the 'brake pads' fell out and broke in half. I slid it back in and continued using the sway bar. I made a fairly tight turn going forward and heard a bad snap-popping noise. The outer flat metal bar, which applies pressure to the pads when the handle is turned... had gotten a bad outward bend in it! I used a small sledge to semi-straighten the bar, then glued both 'pads' back in with Gorilla Glue. I can still use the bar, but the pads don't seat as tight and flat against the inner sliding bar because everything is bent. Is their a fix?... or better option for my relatively light-weight application (trailer is 4500 lbs. max.) Do these things need to be removed when backing and turning sharply? Advice would be appreciated.
Pete
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:51 PM   #2
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If you call Reese Customer Service they should be able to give you good info.
800 521 0510

If you can ask for Kirt.
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:56 PM   #3
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I've been told the bar should be removed before backing the trailer because a very tight turn could cause it to bind and break. Never had the problem myself, but that's what I was told.
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Old 11-25-2009, 06:19 PM   #4
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The end of the bar probably caught on the broken end of the pad inside of the mechanism, and caused it to bend. You will hear some folks say that these are no good on wet, icy, or slippery roads, as they can hamper the rigs ability to turn without loss of traction. True, but when used properly they will provide some degree of sway-reduction. I just back off the tension a hair when in those situations, along with a healthy dose of slowdown!
You may want to change to a better type of anti-sway mechanism, rather than replacing this one with the same. I'll look forward to what some of the more experienced members have to say about this.


Do you really have a 219' Bambi? I would love to see the pics of that!

Happy Thanksgiving!

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Old 11-25-2009, 09:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom View Post
I have searched for info on these friction anti-sway bars but can't find any.
I have a Reese torsion bar (square steel) weight distribution hitch with a flat rectangular friction-type anti-sway bar. [10,000 lb rating, 600 lb. hitch weight... don't know the model name or number]. My application is for towing a 007 219' Bambi with a 2005 Toyota 4Runner V8 all-wheel-drive. Everything has worked fine until I loosened the sway bar too much and dropped it. One of the 'brake pads' fell out and broke in half. I slid it back in and continued using the sway bar. I made a fairly tight turn going forward and heard a bad snap-popping noise. The outer flat metal bar, which applies pressure to the pads when the handle is turned... had gotten a bad outward bend in it! I used a small sledge to semi-straighten the bar, then glued both 'pads' back in with Gorilla Glue. I can still use the bar, but the pads don't seat as tight and flat against the inner sliding bar because everything is bent. Is their a fix?... or better option for my relatively light-weight application (trailer is 4500 lbs. max.) Do these things need to be removed when backing and turning sharply? Advice would be appreciated.
Pete
Your half way there.

You can add the Reese "dual cam" sway control, which works on torsion, not friction, to your rig.

The dual cam out performs the friction type sway control, hands down.

Backing up, or going forward, makes no difference, with the dual cam.

Andy
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Old 11-26-2009, 01:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
You can add the Reese "dual cam" sway control, which works on torsion, not friction, to your rig.
Torsion defined is a twisting FORCE. The force must be applied by something.
The torsion is applied by friction between the weight distribution bars and the cams. Still friction. If that weren't the case the hitch would still work when the cams are lubricated. Once the torsional force applied by the hitch is exceeded the trailer will sway.

A friction sway bar ALSO operates by applying a counteracting torsion to the sway torsion.


Quote:
Originally Posted by From Reese product support:
Can I grease the Dual Cam Sway Control (DCSC)?

Do not grease the cam and cam arms. The Dual Cam was designed to use metal-to-metal friction. Heavy greasing of the cam and cam arm surfaces with affect performance.
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:17 PM   #7
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Reese says that the torsion increases or decreases, depending on the position of the cam on the saddle.

Since the torsion always wants to return to zero, or minimum as the case may be, the cams are encouraged to return to the straight line position on the cams, everytime the torsion increases, for whatever reason, hence, the "straight line".

Andy
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Reese says that the torsion increases or decreases, depending on the position of the cam on the saddle.

Since the torsion always wants to return to zero, or minimum as the case may be, the cams are encouraged to return to the straight line position on the cams, everytime the torsion increases, for whatever reason, hence, the "straight line".

Andy

Okay, agreed. Torsion, a twisting force, can only increase or decrease through FRICTION. If that is what Reese says they are saying that friction increases or decreases depending on the position of the cam in the saddle. {Reference their statement that the Dual-Cam was designed to use metal-to-metal FRICTION. (emphasis added by ME)}

The only reason I point this out is that it isn't correct to say that the Dual-Cam uses torsion and not friction.

BOTH the sway bar and the Dual-Cam apply counteracting torsion through friction.
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:35 PM   #9
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no doubt, friction (anti)sway bars have been around a long time

but after doing this to mine in an emergency maneuver, I went to Hensley Arrow.
Truck-load of info here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-26279.html

You might also consider the ProPride.
There's a rapidly growing database for that hitch here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-57179.html

And no 'friction' issues to deal with...
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:44 PM   #10
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torsion is as torsion does...

this of course IS the take home message...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
...BOTH the sway bar and the Dual-Cam apply counteracting torsion through friction.
and while NOT prominent in the R literature, the F word is clearly buried in the DETAILS of using that contraption...

the reference to lubing/vs relying on friction has been brought to light here several times,

withOUT suggesting anything negative, it's just a fact regarding the contraption.
________

now for lighter fare...

4 those who get their undies in a twist when discussing these issues...

it may seem nutty but having dealt with many folks IN torsion...

it's clear there is a LOT of friction and HEAT involved.

trust me you don't wanna experience torsion like this...
_____________

and sometimes folks USE that word to mystify a contraption,

instead of just sticking to the obvious name for what IT is...

like trying to build a better helical torsion spring rodent control device...

mickey Bware...

the T term is applied in many ways, even in physics!

but engineering is a betta way to think of it.

pick the ONE that applies to the cams/bar bends...

the R cams (under compression/tension) and spring bars CLEARLY rely on friction to dampen sway ...

while the SHAPE of the cams and bend (notch) in the bars operate like the swinging doors into a kitchen or bar...

but the doors and their torsionally stressed springs with friction control and automatic CENTERING...

still DON't prevent the drunk or rowdy from swaying in...

or out.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-26-2009, 03:01 PM   #11
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trust me you don't wanna experience torsion like this...


cheers
2air'
leave it to 2air, to go bustin'-balls in a hitch thread... <wink>
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Old 11-27-2009, 12:04 PM   #12
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Thanks Andy... Will I need to get a new hitch receiver part?... to use the dual-cam type anti-sway bars? Any idea of cost to upgrade? (NOT asking for a quote.... just an idea).
Thanks,
Pete
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Old 11-27-2009, 12:08 PM   #13
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Thanks Andy... Will I need to get a new hitch receiver part?... to use the dual-cam type anti-sway bars? Any idea of cost to upgrade? (NOT asking for a quote.... just an idea).
Thanks,
Pete
Pete,

The dual cam has nothing to do with the hitch box.

I cannot quote prices on anything we sell or might sell, for public view.

Andy
t
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Old 11-27-2009, 01:09 PM   #14
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Pete, If you have the late model bars with the curve at the ends, you will need this: Dual Cam High Performance Sway Control - New Design 26002 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

Or, if you have the early model bars that are straight on the ends, you need this: http://www.etrailer.com/pc-SC~26000.htm

You can actually use the early model cams with the late model bars, and they will be easier to adjust and you won't have to drill holes in your trailer's "A" frame tongue.
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