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Old 07-01-2017, 12:06 PM   #1
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Reese dual cam WD hitch help

While on the road I noticed that the passager front thread forming bolt (item 6&7 on the diagram) was missing. I bought a 1/2-13 replacement bolt however the threads on the A frame are stripped. The treadforming bolts do not go through the frame.
My questions: can I drill completely through the frame and install longer bolts?
Would tightening to the recommended 75ft/lbs possibly bend the A frame?
Has this happen to anyone else and what was your solution?
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:23 PM   #2
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passenger not passager sorry
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:24 PM   #3
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75 lbs would likely crush the tube. You could go up a size and switch to fine thread. Bushings can be used, inserted from a OD hole on the outside of the tube, trimmed flush to the surface. Welding is another option. Helicoils are a hassle to install, but work well. Several solutions available depending on your skillset and tool availability.
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:25 PM   #4
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Any chance of tapping out the stripped hole for the next size bolt, even if you have to switch to metric? Personally I would not drill out the tube frame, in order to through-bolt.
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Old 07-01-2017, 01:53 PM   #5
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OTRA15: tapping out to the next size bolt is an option, but I'm sure this will happen again. Why are you against drilling through the frame?

Ruscal: actually the revised instructions use a 11/16 Rivet Nut (similar to a helicoil) inserted into the frame. But now we're talking a much larger hole and if that strips out how much larger could you go.

Thanks for the replys, may try tapping out to larger size bolt.
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Old 07-01-2017, 02:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LivLoveLaugh View Post
OTRA15: tapping out to the next size bolt is an option, but I'm sure this will happen again. Why are you against drilling through the frame?
. . .
Because it would line up two holes through the steel tubing frame [I am assuming this is a rectangular steel tube section, correct?], which the designers did not intend to have there. Maybe the thing is over-engineered enough to avoid a problem, but there are very high forces right at this point of the tongue, as the trailer bounces down the road.

Also, as suggested earlier, the 75 ft/lbs of loading for the new bolt might compress the steel tube, as it was not spec'd for this kind of load.

Would a through-bolt solution conceivably work, and hold up for years and years? Yes -- maybe.

Or -- maybe not.

A structural failure of the tongue frame steel tubing would be expensive to fix, even assuming it did not cause a catastrophic structural failure and an accident possibly.

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Old 07-01-2017, 03:03 PM   #7
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I don't see any poblem with drilling and bolting through.

Two 3/8 holes are not going to reduce strength of the square tubing any appreciable amount.




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Old 07-01-2017, 03:14 PM   #8
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I think the rivet nut solution is the best.

If those break out or come loose over time you can still take it to a welder and tack the bracket to the frame.
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Old 07-01-2017, 04:07 PM   #9
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IMO where drilling thru square frame at near bottom not prob. with collapse or crush of frame as strong point at side at bottom, if did any of above could plate both sides spreading span longer, simple tack weld would hold plates for ever
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Old 07-01-2017, 05:08 PM   #10
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Oddly talking to another member in our unit. He has the same problem with the same bolt location. We ordered rivet nuts, but the thought of drilling a 11/16" to accept the rivet nut for the 1/2-13 thread forming bolts just doesn't sit well with me. That and I never had much success with rivet nuts.
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Old 07-01-2017, 05:52 PM   #11
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I've installed two of these systems in the last year, getting to install another on my brothers trailer next weekend. The rivet nuts work as intended, with the exception of actually getting the bolt torqued to 75 ft lbs. The supplied nuts are supposed to collapse but start to spin before that happens. On my trailer I have 1 bolt that only has about 40 ft lbs but it has held in for over a year. On my brother in laws trailer we were able to torque all of them to about 60 ft lbs.
When we install on my brothers trailer next weekend we plan on drilling with the next size smaller bit to see if it gives the nut more bite.
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Old 07-01-2017, 07:50 PM   #12
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Rivnuts generally aren't completely flush with the surface--they have a lip. Tack welding sure seems an easy solution.
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:40 AM   #13
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On a new installation you have to be careful to not strip the self tapping bolt by over torquing. Yours may have been stripped letting the bolt wallow in the hole. A loose fastener will ruin the threads.
If installing new rivnuts be sure to use star lock washers to retain the bolts. Locktite is not recommended on rivnuts due to removability issues. (they can spin)
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Old 07-02-2017, 10:50 AM   #14
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Most people don't have a rivnut clinching tool to properly install them. A 1/2" one is a big beefy tool. When properly clinched the rivnut will be able to accept proper torquing. A little anti seize compound will help get there. If you are trying to clinch the fastener by tightening the bolt the rivnut may spin before reaching spec. You can try the anti seize to help get them to clinch better if you don't have the tool. Always use star lock washers to retain bolts if not lock wiring.
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