Reese Dual Cam Sway Control for round/trunnion hitches

[rogerdodger]

I would like to use the reese dual cam 26000 for my round bar Eaz-Lift. Anyone else using this dual cam on their round bar or trunnion systems? I would like to hear about them, good or bad.

[HowieE]

If the ends of the bars are set to accept the cams there should not be a problem. If they are just straight it would be a waste of effort since it is the pressure to lift the bars off the cams that is what reduces sway.

Now that said there is an inherent problem with the newer Straight Line Sway Control Arms. They tend to strike the bars while in a tight turn, most common while back up. Note the material I had to grind off the yoke to prevent this.

[HowieE]

Hope the picture shows up this time

[rogerdodger]

My Eaz-Lift is a round bar, so cannot tell if there will be interference with the link until it is installed. Thanks for the heads up.

[HowieE]

If it is a round bar and do not have the cam saddle at the end there is no reason to install them as they will not act as a sway control.

[overlander64]

Greetings Roger!

Originally Posted by rogerdodger

My Eaz-Lift is a round bar, so cannot tell if there will be interference with the link until it is installed. Thanks for the heads up.

If your round bars have the chains mounted with two throught bolts, there is a high probability that the "classic" bolt-on saddles will work. These bolt-on saddles are available as separate components from Reese unless you purchase the "classic" Dual Cam unit that mounts with large "U"-bolts. I have seen this "classic" style Dual Cam utilized with a "round-bar" hitch, but haven't encountered anyone utilizing "round-bars" with the "High-Performance" Dual Cam.




The bolt-on saddles are the two smaller black steel componentes in the photo above.

Kevin

[rogerdodger]

Thank you for the info. I found a wbsite that sells the classic. It states:
"4-1/2" from the end of the spring bars must not exceed 1-1/2" in width or 5/8" in thickness for cam adapter to work". My spring bars are 1 3/4" at the 4-1/2 from the end, I wouild have to grind a little off the spring bar for it to fit. Should I do that, or Better to buy new spring bars with the curved ends. Thanks for the help.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by rogerdodger

Thank you for the info. I found a wbsite that sells the classic. It states:
"4-1/2" from the end of the spring bars must not exceed 1-1/2" in width or 5/8" in thickness for cam adapter to work". My spring bars are 1 3/4" at the 4-1/2 from the end, I would have to grind a little off the spring bar for it to fit. Should I do that, or Better to buy new spring bars with the curved ends. Thanks for the help.

Please post the site your are referring to.

You can not grind down the bars because you will drastically change the bending factor and thus the deflection within the bars, concentration the force at the point of the grinding.

As you may gather from my other posts I generally am willing to reinvent or change any thing engineered but not this one. You should consider buying a system designed for the job.

[overlander64]

Greetings Roger!

Originally Posted by rogerdodger

Thank you for the info. I found a wbsite that sells the classic. It states:
"4-1/2" from the end of the spring bars must not exceed 1-1/2" in width or 5/8" in thickness for cam adapter to work". My spring bars are 1 3/4" at the 4-1/2 from the end, I wouild have to grind a little off the spring bar for it to fit. Should I do that, or Better to buy new spring bars with the curved ends. Thanks for the help.

In examining my spring bars, the main reason for the the thicknes limitation is the size of the "U-bolt" that attaches the rear-most portion of the cam or "saddle". It would appear that switching to a longer u-bolt should allow for use of your bars without further modification.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

[rogerdodger]

Here is the site:Dual Cam Sway Control 4" or 5" Frame 26000 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

They give the max dimension for the end of the bar. My bar exceeds it. As you stated, best not to mess with the bars if too wide. too bad they didn't make the cams a little wider to work with a variety of bars.

[rogerdodger]

Kevin, it looks like the cam width, and u-bolt width max is 1-1/2 inches, not the length. If I can figure out how to attach the cam with larger u-bolts without them coming loose while traveling, ie larger than the cams, I would give it a try. It would have been better if the cams were wider so the supplied u-bolts would go around my bars.

[azflycaster]

The arms on my Reese would work with the setup posted earlier. My only concern would be the placement of the bracket for the cam arms. I am concerned that the propane bottles might be in the way.

[rogerdodger]

Richard, good point. Here is the website that has the install instructions in pdf format. Draw-Tite Dual Cam Sway Control Fits 4 inch and 5 inch Trailer Frames 26000#

[SteveH]

Roger,

My father did just what you want to do...added the Reese anti-sway cams to an Eazy lift hitch, and he had to grind down the bars a little off each side at the ends only. He had the old style cams, the only ones available at the time, and it worked fine.

[wbrownrr]

Interesting.... now you have me thinking about upgrading my friction sway control to dual cam. Didn't know it was this easy to do.

[overlander64]

Greetings Wayne!

Originally Posted by wbrownrr

Interesting.... now you have me thinking about upgrading my friction sway control to dual cam. Didn't know it was this easy to do.

The "classic" Dual Cam System is very easy to install and adjust -- it has to be if I can handle it as I am not typically a do-it-yourself type. I have installed and adjusted the system on both of my coaches, and it is amazingly easy if not a bit time consuming -- my biggest problem is finding a quiet stretch of road to make the final adjustment. The last time I installed the system on my Minuet, it took about 4 hours from unboxing to final adjustment.

Kevin

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by SteveH

Roger,

My father did just what you want to do...added the Reese anti-sway cams to an Eazy lift hitch, and he had to grind down the bars a little off each side at the ends only. He had the old style cams, the only ones available at the time, and it worked fine.

Thank you steveH, I need some encouragement. It seems as though it would not effect the torsion effect much to remove a little off the edges.

How long did he use the cam on the eaz-lift? Do you know the torsion bar rating on the bars he modified ie 1200 lb, 1000lb, 800lb, 600lb etc? size of trailer etc?? Thank you,

[SteveH]

Roger,

That was in the later 80's, and I really don't know the size of the bars, but I would guess they were the bigger ones because at the time he was towing a 35' Avion.

I also remember with the Reese dual cams he used TWO of the friction anti sway bars. He was towing with a 3/4 ton Suburban, but it was a BIG trailer, and he had a tendancy to drive too fast.

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

The arms on my Reese would work with the setup posted earlier. My only concern would be the placement of the bracket for the cam arms. I am concerned that the propane bottles might be in the way.

There are several places on the brackets to place the u-bolts, avoiding the propane bottles. Also, I saw in another posting, someone suggested using a third u-bolt on each side, because the brackets have a tendency to slide on the trailer frame, changing the adjustment.