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Old 11-10-2008, 01:57 PM   #113
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Responding in order, yes, I'll either replace the entire assembly or order the OEM u-bolts. I'm not enough of a machnist nor do I have the facilities to fabricate grade 8 bolts.

I didn't weigh things on the way out but here's a general idea. I pulled the propane bottles from the hitch. The refrigerator and oven are out. The furnace is gone. All of the cabinetry forward of the bathroom bulkhead is out. This includes the sink and all overhead storage except for the most forward overhead bin. I'm guessing we're down about 500 pounds, perhaps a bit less.

And, Andy, thanks. It's looks like my new dial calipers will get some use when I get home. Of course, since I shot everything in POR-15 and paint, I might get a false read on the width.

The axles are getting replaced... and we'll do the shocks as well. Since we're just towing the empty shell down to the floor/frame shop, I thought it would be just as easy to have them drop in the axles. As for balancing the running gear, we'll see how the girl rolls after the frame is restored and the new floor is in. When we take off on our hiatus in a few years, we'll make it a point to stop by your shop in California. We'll have you take a look at the running gear for balance... an "east coast/west coast" thing.

As for the empty shell trip, we plan an easy trip with plenty of "walk around" stops to see how things are going. We'll baby the girl until she has new legs. And I'll call about the ceiling fix.
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:09 PM   #114
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If all the weight you removed is from the front end you may want to check the tongue weight to make sure you have enough tongue weight to tow the trailer. The tongue weight should be at least 10% of the trailer weight. This is not a joke. If you are tongue light you will have a sway problem at highway speeds.

If you can not get the trailer and tongue weights consider putting a couple of sand bags forward in the trailer to replace the weight you removed.
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Old 11-10-2008, 07:41 PM   #115
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Good thought. The empty propane tanks didn't weigh much, but the fridge, stove and furance were all forward of tandem axles. On the other hand, the remaining tank (blackwater) is bone dry. She probably would ride a bit better with a couple hundred pounds of dry weight sitting forward.
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Old 11-16-2008, 07:26 AM   #116
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Wow. My head is in information overload. The 73 Sovereign I just purchased came with a non-descript weight distribution hitch. Based on my experience with SOB trailers, they are probably 1200# arms. The question I have is what model Reese hitch system should I be looking for to install on my 02 Chevy 2500 CC SB PU? I thought I put a lot of money in the 19' CC boat I have. So far my wish list is about $3K on the AS.
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Old 11-16-2008, 10:14 AM   #117
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More feedback...

Some 2,500 miles ago I reconfigured my hitch to go back to the settings as shown in post #80.

I did this after we left Airstream where we had the new cabinets installed in the front of the trailer.

See: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...sic-46098.html for more info on the new living room configuration.

The tongue weight of the trailer is now just under 1,000 pounds. I have not been able to get to a scale to do the weight game but I suspect that we added no more than 500 pounds to the GVW of the trailer. This would put the GVW of the trailer at roughly 9,300 pounds. This is with a full fresh water tank and black water about half full.

Any rate, this change in the setup has lowered the front of the truck and raised the ball of the trailer hitch. I am much happier with current set up. The trailer is back to being level and the ride is not as "bouncy" (technical term).

I probably won't get the weight game going until we return to Oregon to visit my wife's parents in the spring.

My only concern at this time is the weight on the front axle. Until I can do the weight game this will remain a big unknown. I suspect that I will want to get about 400+ more pounds transferred to the front axle. I'm not sure how I will accomplish this.

Based on some email I have received from people who have changed to the lighter weight bars and had problems with handling/bouncing, etc. I would like to remind everyone that when I put on the new trunnion bars I had to readjust the sway control portion of the hitch so the bars rode properly in the curved portion near the end of the bar. If you do not do this the sway control will NOT work properly and the trailer will be all over the place. Don't ask how I know.

Also, I had to adjust the angle on the hitch ball in order to get the tension on the trunnion bars to transfer the weight to the other axles of the vehicle/trailer. As pointed out by others in this thread the angle of the ball will affect how much tension is on the torsion bars based on the number of chain links that are used to put tension on the torsion bars.

Thanks again to everyone who has participated in this thread.

Jim
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Old 11-16-2008, 09:09 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by Dieselgrin View Post
Wow. My head is in information overload. The 73 Sovereign I just purchased came with a non-descript weight distribution hitch. Based on my experience with SOB trailers, they are probably 1200# arms. The question I have is what model Reese hitch system should I be looking for to install on my 02 Chevy 2500 CC SB PU? I thought I put a lot of money in the 19' CC boat I have. So far my wish list is about $3K on the AS.
Reese 550 pound bars would work great.

Andy
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Old 11-17-2008, 01:05 AM   #119
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Glad I found this post

I am sure happy to find some good info on these dual cam hitches.
I bought a new one for my 1991 triple axled 34' Limitted Edition & '07 HD2500 Chevy w/EXT cab, 6.5' short box, Duramax/Allison.
I ended up with the 1000 lb bars. And it is a rougher ride than I expected. There is NO flex in the bars and BOTH rigs ride level at 4 links that I can hook up just by using the double electric jacks and my hands. No lever bar needed.
Sway is not a problem. And I have been up and down the Oregon - Washington Coasts and up over the Cascade Mtns. this year to a total of 3200 miles

From what I am reading here, I need to be using a MUCH lighter rated bar set.
The following info is with the fresh water full, propane full, Black & Gray tanks emptyand all my gear on board.
Tounge weight is 790 lbs
Trailer weight is 8700 lbs
With the bars I have now (1,000lbs) there is no weight transfer.
TV is rated at 13,400 on the ball (with proper W D Hitch)

I am going to order a set of 600 lb bars.
I will not be able to test until Christmas time when I will use the rig for a trip to Oregon.
I will post the results then.
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:45 AM   #120
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Hi Claude,
I didn't look carefully at your hitch setup back in August, but I think you must have the older style bars like mine with the bolt on cam rider. While you're shopping for lighter bars, if you happen to find an extra set of 600# or 750# bars, I'd appreciate knowing the source.
Thanks for pitching in so much, especially as our oyster expert, at the seafood rally.
Walt
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:38 PM   #121
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Great thread! Although I've mentioned in the past that I've never experienced a sway problem with my rig, I'm open to making a change. Note that my TV is a 2003, 3500 LB, CC with an alternate set of reduced capacity rear springs. Except for the greater unsprung weight of the dually axle it's virtually equivalent to a 2500. This makes for an extremely stable rig using 1,000 lb capacity bars (non-sway type,) lightly tensioned. My thought, after reading the preceding thread, is that switching to the Reese sway control system with 600 lb bars would probably provide the same ride - but with an intangible sway control benefit - at a cost of about $230.00 for the new bars and hardware. My only concern is the clearance or "binding" problem that has been mentioned with regard to the newer system. It doesn't sound like this issue has been completely resolved???
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:32 PM   #122
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Angry The BARS HEAVY - HEAVY

I went out today and looked at the bars I now have.
They are NOT 1,000 pounders

They are 1,200 pounders for a class 5 hitch. (that is the recever class I have, 2.5"x2.5")
No wonder they do not bend.

I had not taken the factory film/tape off the bar heads so could not see the numbers before.
I, like others before me, went on the info as supplied by the dealer.
Boy , am I dumb.
Now I will get the lower rated bars soon.

WALT,
I have the new style bars w/ the built in curve. But all they are worth is to "Tow the Peterbuilt" that Andy has been talkin' about.

And I enjoyed the weekend at the "Orygun" Unit Seafood Rally last August. Keep me posted on future events. You never know.
Lots of fun. Cooking Oysters is always great fun when I get to eat that many.........

With the lower rated bars, maybe my O-2 Concentrator & Compressor won't travel around in the AS as bad when I am on the road.
Had them straped down but they left marks in the piece of plywood they ride on.
Glad I did not have them directly on the Prego-look -a-like flooring.
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Old 11-17-2008, 11:36 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by catson4 View Post
I went out today and looked at the bars I now have.
They are NOT 1,000 pounders

They are 1,200 pounders for a class 5 hitch. (that is the recever class I have, 2.5"x2.5")
No wonder they do not bend.

I had not taken the factory film/tape off the bar heads so could not see the numbers before.
I, like others before me, went on the info as supplied by the dealer.
Boy , am I dumb.
Now I will get the lower rated bars soon.

WALT,
I have the new style bars w/ the built in curve. But all they are worth is to "Tow the Peterbuilt" that Andy has been talkin' about.

And I enjoyed the weekend at the "Orygun" Unit Seafood Rally last August. Keep me posted on future events. You never know.
Lots of fun. Cooking Oysters is always great fun when I get to eat that many.........

With the lower rated bars, maybe my O-2 Concentrator & Compressor won't travel around in the AS as bad when I am on the road.
Had them straped down but they left marks in the piece of plywood they ride on.
Glad I did not have them directly on the Prego-look -a-like flooring.
The lower rating bars (550-600) pounds, will contribute to your having a very fine Christmas.

Please report back, after the change, so others can learn about your new, and far better, towing experience.

Andy
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Old 11-18-2008, 12:16 PM   #124
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Where Can I find the Old Style Bars?

My bars measure 1.250 inches square where the bar enters the head of the trunnion. From what I have decifered this amounts to 1000#. So I need to drop down to 550-600# based on what I've read here since I pull a 29' trailer with a 3/4 ton Suburban.

I have the old style bars with the bolt-on cam follower. Are these still available? If so, from whom? All I see on the Reese web site and etrailer.com is the newer(?) style bars. Or do I even need to worry about this and simply purchase what appears to the be the newer style bars with the formed/forged cam follower?

Comments are appreciated.

Lucius
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Old 11-18-2008, 01:15 PM   #125
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:50 PM   #126
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Wink 600 poundes

So far , all I can find are a pair of REESE Trunnion style 600 Lb Weight distribution bars from E-trailer for $149.95 with FREE shipping starting at $150.00.........

Can any one give me a better source? Better price??????
I want the 600 pound trunnion Style Bars for a Reese "Dual cam" weight distribution hitch set.


PLEASE and thank a ton. or in this caese.... 600 pounds...
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