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Old 09-29-2014, 07:17 PM   #295
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That hole was for a small ball that is used with the friction plate sway control. Not something you nee to worry about except when you bash your shines against it.

For the sound of where you were while setting up your hitch i would suggest when you get home find a straight level area at least 200 ft long and drive onto it as straight as you can. Once stopped readjust the hitch to insure the bars are seated squarely on the cams. If not the Reese can be additive to sway rather than reductive.
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Old 09-30-2014, 01:48 PM   #296
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yes, I know I need to fine tune it when I get to someplace paved and level. I'm about 7 miles from the nearest pavement right now, and that would be 287, the Overland Trail.

When I cranked up the jack off the ground with five chain links to the hanger, the back fender well of the truck lowered about 2 inches. The front fender didn't go up or down at all. I'm assuming I need more tension on the chains.
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:09 PM   #297
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What are you towing with? 2 in. is a lot and with no reaction on the front fender I think you need more tension in the chains. Changing the chains will require resetting the trailing arms as the bars will move on the saddles.

When you measure the fender displacement do it with a mark on painters tape on the fenders. Measure and mark unloaded and then loaded.

When finished put a tie wrap around one of the bars and always use that bar on the same side when hooking up. They are not always the same length.
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Old 09-30-2014, 02:20 PM   #298
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In the ideal situation, both fenders should go down the same amount, correct?

It's an '03 F 250 Super Duty 4x4.
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Old 09-30-2014, 05:31 PM   #299
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Originally Posted by Gringo View Post
In the ideal situation, both fenders should go down the same amount, correct?

It's an '03 F 250 Super Duty 4x4.
That depends on whose definition of "ideal" you want to follow.

For the F-250, Ford used to specify that the WDH should be adjusted to return the front end to within 1/2" of its unhitched height.
Ford now specifies that the WDH should be adjusted to eliminate approximately 50% of the front-end rise.

Reese now is using updated installation instructions which state:
8. A new term in the industry is (“FALR” – Front Axle Load Return).
100% FALR Means the front fender is returned to the preload position.
That is our recommendation for best performance.


Most major TV and WDH manufacturers have abandoned the "equal squat" approach to WDH adjustment.
Current thinking is that the front end should be returned to the unhitched load -- or less than the unhitched load.

If your front-end height was the same before hitching and after hitching with WD applied, that could mean the WDH caused the front load to be restored to the unhitched value.
It also could mean that you did not restore 100% of the load which was removed, but the front-end height remained unchanged due to friction forces in the front-end suspension components.

In response to your question --
IMO, the ideal situation is for the front end to be returned to the unhitched height or slightly above.
IMO, the front end should never be returned to less than the unhitched height.

Ron
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Old 09-30-2014, 08:38 PM   #300
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I think the guys that came up with "100% FALR" are all former art critics or theorists. Show me some objective test data that confirms superior handling and safety performance versus equal squat and I will happily become a disciple. Jim


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Old 10-01-2014, 08:02 PM   #301
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Quote:
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I think the guys that came up with "100% FALR" are all former art critics or theorists. Show me some objective test data that confirms superior handling and safety performance versus equal squat and I will happily become a disciple.
Jim, I think you and I are using two different definitions of "equal squat".

When I use the term, "equal squat", I am referring to adjusting the WDH to cause the front and rear of the TV to drop by an equal amount.
If the front and rear springs have equal spring coefficients, this would be about the same as adjusting the WDH to cause equal loads to be added to front and rear relative to the unhitched loads.
IOW, my definition of "equal squat" relates to equal added load.

Some time ago, you posted your WDH was adjusted to give equal GVW for the front and rear axles -- 3300# each, I believe.
The tongue weight was stated to be 1250#

It is quite unusual for an unhitched TV to have equal front and rear GVWs.
Usually, the unhitched front GVW is considerably larger than the rear GVW.
I'm guessing that your unhitched TV had about 3100# on the front and 2550# on the rear.
If those guesses are in the ball park, the TW plus WD would have caused about 200# added to the front axle and about 750# added to the rear.

A 1250# TW should have caused about 660# to be removed from the front axle.
The WDH would need to add 860# to get a net gain of 200#.
The calculated FALR would have been about 860/660 = 130%.
I estimate a FALR of 160% would have been required to achieve equal added loads for your front and rear axles.

Therefore, it appears your WDH was adjusted to put you half way between the art critics/theorists and "equal squat".

Ron
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:26 AM   #302
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Quote:
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I have the old style Reese hitch, and my goal with it's seven-link-total chain, was to set up for the spring bars to be roughly parallel to the A-Arm while deflecting a healthy amount. I have three (3) links under stress.

There is an Airstream Article, central to what I thought my goal was at my website (link in signature). I wrote the article because no one in the business had one for me to read.

It would be great to read an article, in print, from someone with say, 40 years in the bidness on the subject.

Tom
Tom - Thank you so much for the info on the older style Reese hitch. That is the hitch that we have and greatly appreciate your sharing! BTW - what a great trailer and website!!
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Old 10-02-2014, 10:39 AM   #303
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Ron, thank you very much for your thoughtful response. We are on the same page when we are speaking of equal squat. I simply try to ensure that my Delta at the wheel wells remains the same loaded versus unloaded. Usually the rear Delta is about half an inch lower when loaded versus unloaded. Of course now, with the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the air suspension, the vehicle sits perfectly all the time regardless of loading. So I did my initial set up with the air suspension off and I had to have the Hensely cranked up to full blast in addition to a shank modification to increase the downward angle of the weight distribution bars in order to achieve a decent weight distribution. That is about half an inch lower at the rear wheel well. The results as shown by the weigh scale ticket were 2992 front, 3630 rear, and 7634 on the Airstream. I don't have unloaded weights.
So I am not really where I want to be weight distribution wise, but the whole contraption seems to handle really nicely, so I am a happy camper. Jim


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Old 10-02-2014, 11:14 AM   #304
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now I'm getting confused. Hensley? I thought this was specific to Reese dual cam?

And if my current setup causes the rear fender well to do all the "squat" and the front fender well to remain the same height, does it sound like I am close to dialed in? by the way, before installing the Reese, using a weight carrying drawbar, when I put the weight of the trailer on it, the rear of the truck went way down while the front went up slightly. So I don't think friction in the linkage is preventing it from moving upwards if the forces tell it to move upward.
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:40 PM   #305
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Yes. Please forgive my wandering about. I used a Reese Dual Cam for many years and it is still my reserve hitch for when my Hensley brakes. The principle for transferring weight is still the same. They just do it in a different manner. Jim


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Old 10-02-2014, 01:41 PM   #306
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Brakes? Try breaks. I'm using the mic and sometimes it has its own way of spelling. Jim


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Old 10-02-2014, 04:35 PM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Flower View Post
---The results as shown by the weigh scale ticket were 2992 front, 3630 rear, and 7634 on the Airstream. I don't have unloaded weights.
So I am not really where I want to be weight distribution wise, but the whole contraption seems to handle really nicely, so I am a happy camper.
Jim, your scales numbers, combined with estimated dimensions for your TV/TT and estimated unhitched axle loads, indicate a FALR very close to 100%.

I'll report to the former art critics and theorists that the FALR of 100% causes you to be a happy camper.
Would I be going too far if I also reported you are ready to become a disciple?

Ron
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Old 10-02-2014, 06:15 PM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
Jim, your scales numbers, combined with estimated dimensions for your TV/TT and estimated unhitched axle loads, indicate a FALR very close to 100%.



I'll report to the former art critics and theorists that the FALR of 100% causes you to be a happy camper.

Would I be going too far if I also reported you are ready to become a disciple?



Ron

Isn't that a riot. Now I am going to have to weigh the Jeep empty just to confirm that I will have to find another reason for sometimes being antagonistic. Yes, too far at this time. It takes a while get used to the idea. I will come back here to report. Again, thanks Ron. Jim


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