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Old 05-04-2014, 07:14 PM   #253
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I am having a problem with my Reese cams. They won't drop the bars when I release the tension on the chains. Is there an adjustment I should make? Thanks for any help!
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:24 PM   #254
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lower the jack to raise the whole rig it will take a few lbs off, drop the chains lower jack, done
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:00 PM   #255
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I raised the rig to release the chains then raised the jack all the way (rig dropped as low as it will go) and the cams would not release. Had to go hunting for something bigger than my foot to hit them with
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:05 PM   #256
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Sounds like you cold welded the cam and the bar together.

I have seen this to a lesser degree from time to time.

How much weight are you attempting to move with the bars. Load on the bars will effect this
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:10 PM   #257
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25fb with no extra weight up front. 800 lb bars have about a 1 inch flex when hooked up. 5 links on the chains.
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:47 PM   #258
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Question Help me Andy, help, help, help me Andy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Cars would use a 1000 pound bar, no more.

1/2 ton truck, 750 pound bars.

Heavier than 1/2 ton, uses 600 pound bars.

Heavy duty tow vehicles carry a little to a lot of the tounge weight, therefore the bars must be a little lighter so that the stiffness of the ride as well as road shock transfer to the trailer is minimized.

Andy
Hi Andy,

Hope all is well & hope you can, or anyone with similar setup, help me choose the best bar. I read almost every post on these 19 pgs & it seems everyone has a truck that should use a 600 lbs bar. But what if you use a large SUV? I have a Nissan Armada LE w/tow pkg hauling a 2014 25' International Signature Onyx. Should I use the 600 or 800 lbs bars? I posted two pics of my reworked hitch which I'm finally getting the Armada to squat in the front rather then rise. The second pic the hitch jack floating off the ground.

This is a question for anyone.
Does the trailer have to be perfectly leveled when hitched or is a slight pitch in either direction acceptable?
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:06 PM   #259
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Dual Axle Airstreams must be level when hitched on level ground. This is because of the design of the axles. If the trailer is not level then the axles are not sharing the load.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:58 AM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenXair View Post
Hi Andy,

Hope all is well & hope you can, or anyone with similar setup, help me choose the best bar. I read almost every post on these 19 pgs & it seems everyone has a truck that should use a 600 lbs bar. But what if you use a large SUV? I have a Nissan Armada LE w/tow pkg hauling a 2014 25' International Signature Onyx. Should I use the 600 or 800 lbs bars? I posted two pics of my reworked hitch which I'm finally getting the Armada to squat in the front rather then rise. The second pic the hitch jack floating off the ground.

This is a question for anyone.
Does the trailer have to be perfectly leveled when hitched or is a slight pitch in either direction acceptable?
I looked at the bottom picture, and I see you're on link number 6 at the snap-hook tensioner. The spring bars aren't quite parallel to the trailer's frame rail. I'd suggest tilting the hitch ball assembly one setting forward so you can tension the bars with the chains on link number 5. From what I've read, the bars exert the right amount of tension when they're as close to parallel to the frame rail as you can get them. Also, try to move the snap hooks forward so the chains are perpendicular to the bar ends when they're connected. I know the cover for the propane tanks is too close to them, but try to move them as far as you can so the chains pull straight up on the bars.

And yes, a trailer with tandem axles needs to be very close to level when hitched up.

Andy can chime in on this and tell us if what I suggest makes sense.

I tow our 27FB with a Tundra, and switched from 1200 lb bars to 600 lb, and it made the ride much smoother.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:37 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gnorts View Post
I looked at the bottom picture, and I see you're on link number 6 at the snap-hook tensioner. The spring bars aren't quite parallel to the trailer's frame rail. I'd suggest tilting the hitch ball assembly one setting forward so you can tension the bars with the chains on link number 5. From what I've read, the bars exert the right amount of tension when they're as close to parallel to the frame rail as you can get them. Also, try to move the snap hooks forward so the chains are perpendicular to the bar ends when they're connected. I know the cover for the propane tanks is too close to them, but try to move them as far as you can so the chains pull straight up on the bars.

And yes, a trailer with tandem axles needs to be very close to level when hitched up.

Andy can chime in on this and tell us if what I suggest makes sense.

I tow our 27FB with a Tundra, and switched from 1200 lb bars to 600 lb, and it made the ride much smoother.
I did make a post over the weekend, but it got lost some how.

Tilting the bottom of the ball mount a little rearward, will help gain some ground clearance.

The trailer must be as level as possible, so that the reefer does not vapor lock. A one half bubble off level is the limit especially when sitting still. Climbing hills and mountains don't matter because the trailer is in motion. The higher the ambient temperature the more critical the levelness becomes.

Since Airstreams require a soft ride, lighter bars, within reason, provide that ride and at the same time reduces damages caused by rigid bars and/or tow vehicles.

Your suggestion, is on the nose, in my opinion and experience.

The heavier tow vehicles and super heavy duty bars can be used as soon as Airstream makes a RV duplicate of the Queen Mary.

Andy
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:46 PM   #262
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I've been carting a new Reese dual cam around for two years, waiting until we got our own truck. Now we have the F250 and I'm ready to install the hitch. I've been reading this thread and getting a great amount of info, and I have a stupid question. Do you guys with these hitches take them off for boondocking? I have a great spot that requires me to pull the trailer over several hundred yards of gently rolling hills into a tree line. It's looking like the hitches affect ground clearance quite a bit, judging from the photos.
Do you go back to a straight draw bar for offroad?
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:29 AM   #263
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Thanks for the advice

I want to thank everyone for their advice & guidance. I'll be replacing my bars and tweaking my hitch based on your recommendations and will update this post with pics and experience.

Thanks,
Alvin
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:57 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gringo View Post
I've been carting a new Reese dual cam around for two years, waiting until we got our own truck. Now we have the F250 and I'm ready to install the hitch. I've been reading this thread and getting a great amount of info, and I have a stupid question. Do you guys with these hitches take them off for boondocking? I have a great spot that requires me to pull the trailer over several hundred yards of gently rolling hills into a tree line. It's looking like the hitches affect ground clearance quite a bit, judging from the photos.
Do you go back to a straight draw bar for offroad?
Hi Gringo,

My hitch trunnion bars are sitting lower then they should because they're rated 1200 lbs and don't flex. I'm switching them out to a lighter bar as suggested by Andy & others so they're not as stiff and are closer to the A frame. With that said I think you'll have enough clearance for those hills. I know if I took off those trunnion bars that my hitch and SUV will sit lower then with them on.

Maybe someone else with a F250 can share there experience.

-Alvin
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:54 PM   #265
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There's lots of great thought on this post. I've skimmed through most of it. From personal experience, if you want to preserve your AS use the lightest weight bars that you can get away with. Mark the bars Left and Right and don't switch them after your have the deepest part of your grove in the sway control arm. No one ever told me not to switch bars from one side to the other. I found that one time I had great sway control then the next time the AS swayed all over. The bottom line is that your bars may not be exactly the same.

~A
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Old 09-20-2014, 08:57 PM   #266
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Thumbs up Seting up to the right link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
I did make a post over the weekend, but it got lost some how.

Tilting the bottom of the ball mount a little rearward, will help gain some ground clearance.

The trailer must be as level as possible, so that the reefer does not vapor lock. A one half bubble off level is the limit especially when sitting still. Climbing hills and mountains don't matter because the trailer is in motion. The higher the ambient temperature the more critical the levelness becomes.

Since Airstreams require a soft ride, lighter bars, within reason, provide that ride and at the same time reduces damages caused by rigid bars and/or tow vehicles.

Your suggestion, is on the nose, in my opinion and experience.

The heavier tow vehicles and super heavy duty bars can be used as soon as Airstream makes a RV duplicate of the Queen Mary.

Andy
Greetings,

I have a question for you.

We just drove over 1000 miles from Portland to Phoenix our new 28ft International signature, we towed ot with a Dodge Ram 1500ecodiesel. In a previous tread you recomended to me to use the Reese Dual cam, and we follow your advise. We left portland with the chains hooked to the 5th link, but once we got into I-5 I found the truck difficult to handle, ot was like i had no control of tje steering and it was quite bouncing on the back, so we dorve back to the dealership and after a brief description of the problem to the chief hitch installer we raised the links to the 4th one. Once we did that the whole thing changed, I felt then to have full control. We drove the whole trip with no incident, great control, no sway up to speds of 65 and short moments of 70mph. However i did weigh the truck empty.

STEER, 3420
Drive. 3140
GrossW. 6560
This is myself, wife and about 300 lbs of cargo, the truck has a leer shelf that weights about 300lbs

Out of Portland we stopped at the cat scale and jeee are the results.

STEER 3540
Drive. 3780
Trailer 5600
Total 12920

The trailer empty weight is 5923, tongue weight of 950lbs

I have to mention that all the cargo weight was to the front of the rear axle close the the cabin and the trailer had a full tank of fresh water.

On the road we disconected the unhooked the trailer a couple of times and each time i jad to raise the chain tensioner hook was not easy, i felt I was getting the chains to tense at the 4th link. My question is, did make a mistake in having all the cargo weight to the front of the rear axle? those 300lbs could have made a difference in have a equal balance with front and rear axle, or you think we should tilt the ball rearward a notch. Any help will be very appreciate it. And thank you again for recomending to use the Resse dual cam, we have the 800lbs bars. You have suggested the 600, but the dealer was hard to deal in delivering the set with shat we wanted. Cheers and thank you again.
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