Reese Dual Cam Set Up...

[PKI]

There is a rather extensive thread on the advantage of going to a lighter bar with a stiffer TV.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-up-43568.html

In general it says - use lighter bars with heavier TV. Use 1000# bars for a big car; 800# bars for a 1/2ton without overloads; 750# for 1/2 ton with overloads; 550# for 1/2ton with overloads and 3/4ton or larger tow vehicles.

Your 3/4 may not quite fit the trend as it is a bit softer sprung, but the thread is food for thought. It was recommended to me and it's only right to pass the info forward. Hope it helps.

Travel Safe. Pat

[dznf0g]

Pat...you just referenced the same thread we are posting in!

[BoldAdventure]

Originally Posted by PKI

There is a rather extensive thread on the advantage of going to a lighter bar with a stiffer TV.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-up-43568.html

In general it says - use lighter bars with heavier TV. Use 1000# bars for a big car; 800# bars for a 1/2ton without overloads; 750# for 1/2 ton with overloads; 550# for 1/2ton with overloads and 3/4ton or larger tow vehicles.

Your 3/4 may not quite fit the trend as it is a bit softer sprung, but the thread is food for thought. It was recommended to me and it's only right to pass the info forward. Hope it helps.

Travel Safe. Pat

Pat you linked to this thread

[PKI]

If you have read the whole thread, that should save you some time! Safe travels. Pat

[slowmover]

I'd start with what you have. Barely any weight onto TT axles, and Steer Axle is decent. The old rule was a one third distribution of TW onto each axle. Not easy, or likely, with a pickup this size. Can it go up any more (as there is room on the Steer for additional)?

Call it the first round of experimentation. Put the trailer tires to full pressure and work on the TV tire pressures.

It takes a while for the TT to react with a non Hensley hitch. A smooth reaction as a unit to a curve or swerve is what I'd be looking for. It may seem the truck is slow to react if tires are not high in pressure . . but the TT is slower. Find the feel good point. Watch the mirrors and gauge the wheel degree plus time.

This may mean s few more trips across the scale to find the per wheel weight hitched and ready for travel.

The "lowest" TV tire pressure across each axle would be my goal. That's after 1.5-hrs at highway speed and checking for a less than 10% pressure rise. 7-8 would be more like it.

From there one knows the dead minimum necessary.

Too much is to be avoided. Go up 5-psi at a time. Can't say whether yours should be done Steer and Drive or each individually.

Lighter bars is another argument. It will have the same TV tire pressure problem, but a different set of numbers.

As said, work it the old way first would be my preference. TV tire pressure is a problem to get out of the way prior to establishing best handling and braking. Then, it'll be easier to evaluate other approaches as well.

If one ever has to wrestle this hoss, best to be prepared. Trailer cambered starboard and TV opposite can be "fun" even at city speeds.

[woodytwo]

Tried to find discussion of older Reese vs newer Reese style hitch but my lack of computer skills were no help. What does the jury say?

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by woodytwo

Tried to find discussion of older Reese vs newer Reese style hitch but my lack of computer skills were no help. What does the jury say?

Both Reese system have the same mechanical function to control sway and distribute weight. The difference is in the way one sets up the system. The newer Straight Line system greatly reduces the complexity of set up in that it provides a method of initially setting the bars to saddle relation. The older system required adjusting the U bolts that hold the trailing arms to the frame ever time you change the hitch head. While that sound simple it was a very time consuming thing and one that caused a large percentage of Reese system to never have been set up correctly.

The bars must sit centered on the cams while the trailer is aligned as it would be driving straight down the road. The newer system provides for the bars to float on the cams until final adjustments of WD and have been accomplished. At that point the trailing arm nuts in the yokes are tightened down and the setup is done.

There is an inherent problem with the new system in that the outer bar can come in contact with the yoke while make a tight turn while backing up. If not addressed during installation it can break the yoke. I now install the trailing arm to the frame of the trailer rearward rather than forward. This completely eliminates any possible problem while retaining the original intended function of the trailing arm. I am sure there will be those that say this is illegal, immoral, and fating but it works.

[sheriff1]

I had the new variety, spent LOTS of time with setup, reset up , re-re setup, enlisted the aid of pros, never got to the point that I liked it. Even with a F350 TV it still felt like it was "hunting" it's way down the road. Switched to Equalizer, happy camper.


2015 F350 CC 4X4 6.7 Diesel
2010 27FB Silver Cloud "The Silver Spoon"