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Old 02-06-2009, 12:07 AM   #141
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Wink It was deep there in Orygun

Sure glad I did have the 4X4 this Christmas.
I made it south to Hillsboro for Christmas on the 23rd. And spent half of the 24th transporting family & friends back and forth.
But was fun.
Wish we could have had a cuppa or? but not to be .
I have not been out at all. As you have probably seen by my profile, I said was a "RETIRED" parade float builder. "WAS" is the operative word. Well, I had a sponsor come along and they made me a "God-Father Offer". Ya know, one I could not refuse.
So I have now , as of 2/1/09, opened the doors once more and will be building one more each year for a couple more years to come. Also have to travel it to over 10 parades in the Northwest so I am not sure when I will get out with the ol' Silverback again. I do get to do all the design, construction & decoration work during the winter months. But it also takes up my shop space for play with the Airstream.
But you may see me on the road this year. Not with the AS but tug'n a brand new 40' Wells Cargo 5th wheeler to transport the float around. Have to go out and buy a new hitch for the 5er.

Let me know how the bars work for you. Walt, that is the towing bars I am talking about.

Tell Lynn "Howdy"
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:20 PM   #142
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The Spring Bars Work OK

Hi,

The Jazz at the Beach Rally was fun and gave me a chance to test the new 600# Reese Spring Bars over the Coast Range Rt. 26 with up, down and a lot of curves. Held in the 50-60 range most of the way. The snow was melted back off the road surface with just some wet spots.

As far as my observations go, there seemed to be not much handling difference in what I could sense. Maybe what would have been a strong jolt was a somewhat softer, gradual bounce. There was no sway that I could detect -- just like with the 1200# bars. These 600# bars do not make nearly the bumping & clanking noise of the heavier bars.

I have 4 pictures (Each JPG & less than 1600X1600 & under 1 MB) I took of the setup, but it seems I can't get them to load tonight. It's clearest in one of the pictures that my hitch ball is mounted just about vertical. Is there an advantage, other than height adjustment, to the backward slant I've seen with others? The rest of the arrangement seems well set. The trailer is within 0.25" of level front to back. There's about a 1.5 to 2" spring in the bars at 3 chain links.

Claude, I hope all that new work isn't keeping you on the too straight & narrow and I hope you get out at least a bit to check out your new bars (Spring bars that is).

Walt
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:13 AM   #143
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Originally Posted by Driver1 View Post
Hi,

The Jazz at the Beach Rally was fun and gave me a chance to test the new 600# Reese Spring Bars over the Coast Range Rt. 26 with up, down and a lot of curves. Held in the 50-60 range most of the way. The snow was melted back off the road surface with just some wet spots.

As far as my observations go, there seemed to be not much handling difference in what I could sense. Maybe what would have been a strong jolt was a somewhat softer, gradual bounce. There was no sway that I could detect -- just like with the 1200# bars. These 600# bars do not make nearly the bumping & clanking noise of the heavier bars.

I have 4 pictures (Each JPG & less than 1600X1600 & under 1 MB) I took of the setup, but it seems I can't get them to load tonight. It's clearest in one of the pictures that my hitch ball is mounted just about vertical. Is there an advantage, other than height adjustment, to the backward slant I've seen with others? The rest of the arrangement seems well set. The trailer is within 0.25" of level front to back. There's about a 1.5 to 2" spring in the bars at 3 chain links.

Claude, I hope all that new work isn't keeping you on the too straight & narrow and I hope you get out at least a bit to check out your new bars (Spring bars that is).

Walt
Tilting the ball mount rearward, makes the far end of the torsion bars come closer to the ground.

In the case of chain adjustments, then that allows a greater adjustment range.

As an example, when using a Reese "dual cam" setup, you should have 5 links under stress, when the arms are properly adjusted.

Andy
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:23 AM   #144
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5 vs. 3 links ?

Hi again,

I just found that by moving the pictures to the root directory (C:\), the pictures will upload.

Andy, I understand what you're saying about the additional links when adjusting the hitch ball with a tilt, but why would 5 vs. 3 links make a difference if nothing is bumping or rubbing?

Walt
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:35 AM   #145
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Hi again,

I just found that by moving the pictures to the root directory (C:\), the pictures will upload.

Andy, I understand what you're saying about the additional links when adjusting the hitch ball with a tilt, but why would 5 vs. 3 links make a difference if nothing is bumping or rubbing?

Walt
As you can see, your adjustment range is maxed out.

Ideally, 5 links under stress, is the goal. In time, due to wear, you will have to come up one more link.

The bend that your bars have, is great. Your rig should handle very well.

You should also add one more U-bolt to each side of the dual cam. In time, the 2 U-bolts stretch, which allow the plate to move when you least expect it.

Also, the chains should never go over the bars. Pleace them on the inside of each bar, as well as crossing them before they are attached to the tow vehicle.

Andy
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Old 02-24-2009, 10:48 AM   #146
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Hi Andy,

Thanks for the coaching. I'll shop for a couple more U bolts. I'd wondered about the chains being in or outside the bars and couldn't think of a reason it would matter, but I'll go with inside in the future. The break-away chains in the picture are crossed before attaching to the tow vehicle.

Do you think I should shorten the break-away chains?

Walt
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Old 02-24-2009, 11:22 AM   #147
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Hi Walt, This video may help you too. YouTube - Weight Distribution and Sway Control Installation - etrailer.com
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:05 AM   #148
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I've been watching this thread and soaking up all the information about using smaller bars on the Reese hitch because I have one. Haven't ordered the smaller bars yet (I have the 850 bars with a 25'AS which has a factory spec hitch weight of 760 pounds) and towing with a 1/2 ton pickup with a factory HD suspension. Comparing the ride with this setup to previous round bar hitches, I really can't tell much difference. However, reading all the info here, I am concerned.

Then, at the last unit rally I went to, I noticed a friend had one of the original Eqilizer hitches. WHOLLY CATFISH, BATMAN, those bars are monsterous compared to my whimply little Reese bars!

So Andy, my question is, if one step too heavy of bars on a Reese hitch will potentially damage an AS, it would seem to me ANY Equilizer hitch would simple rip the tongue off of it???? What do you say?
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Old 02-25-2009, 07:48 AM   #149
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I've been watching this thread and soaking up all the information about using smaller bars on the Reese hitch because I have one. Haven't ordered the smaller bars yet (I have the 850 bars with a 25'AS which has a factory spec hitch weight of 760 pounds) and towing with a 1/2 ton pickup with a factory HD suspension. Comparing the ride with this setup to previous round bar hitches, I really can't tell much difference. However, reading all the info here, I am concerned.

Then, at the last unit rally I went to, I noticed a friend had one of the original Eqilizer hitches. WHOLLY CATFISH, BATMAN, those bars are monsterous compared to my whimply little Reese bars!

So Andy, my question is, if one step too heavy of bars on a Reese hitch will potentially damage an AS, it would seem to me ANY Equilizer hitch would simple rip the tongue off of it???? What do you say?
Your rig would probably be better off using a 600 pound rating.

Equalizer bars always remind me of a heavy duty "crow bar."

I totally fail to see how they offer "any" sway control. The small area that can offer some resistance, is a joke. But they are cheap.

I have always felt that because of the lack of flexing when hitting bumps, that even the lightest Equalizer bars will eventually contribute to some type of damage to the trailer.

The bars, must flex, or else.

Andy
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:33 AM   #150
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Quote:
Equalizer bars always remind me of a heavy duty "crow bar."

I totally fail to see how they offer "any" sway control. The small area that can offer some resistance, is a joke. But they are cheap.
Andy, my question was not about the Equalizer's sway control attributes, but about the size/strength of the bars.

Again, if an under rated Reese bar is bad for the Airstream, how could you use an equalizer hitch without immediate damage to the trailer?
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:40 AM   #151
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How about the Hensley hitch, can the spring bars be too stiff? My rig (28 ft Classic and 2500 hd) is very harsh on bumps.
Absolutely.

Airstreams love and MUST have a soft ride.

If not, the trailer will suffer numerable damages.

Who says so?

HISTORY.

Many shops make big bucks, putting those trailers back together again.

Second problem...........

Insurance companies "do not" pay for long term damage.

They do pay for sudden, accidental and direct damages, only.

Andy
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:59 AM   #152
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Andy, my question was not about the Equalizer's sway control attributes, but about the size/strength of the bars.

Again, if an under rated Reese bar is bad for the Airstream, how could you use an equalizer hitch without immediate damage to the trailer?
Steve.

"Under rated" bars won't cause any damage, but the may not transfer enough weight.

"Over rated" bars, cause the damages.

Immediate damage with excessive rated bars, probably won't happen, but it will happen in short order.

Andy
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:20 PM   #153
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Okay, so I've got a new TV pulling my 2006 28' International CCD. (The Ford F-250 served me well, but I needed more cargo space.) The new TV is a 2002 Ford Excursion 7.3L Diesel. Here are the specs…

GCWR 20,000 lbs.
Max. Trailer Weight Rating 10,500 lbs.

My trailer's specs are…

GVWR 7,300 lbs.
UBW 5,440 lbs.

I very rarely (if ever) travel with loaded tanks, and my cargo is equally split weight-wise between the trailer and the SUV.

Any idea what the correct Reese Dual-Cam bars I should be using are? Any other comments on connecting trailer to TV? I haven't had a chance to have the truck and trailer weighed or to take pictures, so I'm just looking for some general advice with my Dual-Cam setup.

Cheers!
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:21 AM   #154
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Research some of Andys old posts on the topic as to which. Generally, the stiffer the rear suspension on the TV, the lighter the bar.
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