Reese & Equalizer: Functional difference?

[Boondocker]

I am currently using an older Reese wdh (chain and flip clip) which seems to work OK, but I have never been happy with the flip clip attachment. I dont like how they attach and I have bent a couple up. I have considered welding the things to the tounge, but for all I know that is dangerous.

I notice that that the Equalizers use a chainless mount which I am thinking I might be more comfortable with.

So here is what I am wondering. Is there any functional differences between the two sytems? Am I just not set up corectly, wrong bars? Am I just perseverating on somthing that is no big deal? Any ideas on this one folks?

Other information: I am level when attached, the only sway issues (so far) come from large trucks passsing. Above 65 mph, the set up can be a little 'loose' (for lack of a better term) but I tend to go 55-60 anyway. Oh yeah, TV is a 1991 f150 manual trans with 302 if that matters.

[lewster]

Hey Rodney,

You'll get lot's of opinions on this....sort of like an oil thread! I use the Equal-I-Zer and it works flawlessly. The Reese works well also. Both MUST be properly installed and adjusted. I have never experienced any sway in 12,000 miles of towing the CCD, sometimes at speeds of 75mph.

I chose the EQ for the simplicity of attachment. Your results may vary .

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by lewster

...sometimes at speeds of 75mph.

tsk, tsk, tsk...shame on you!

Shari

[Minnie's Mate]

Originally Posted by InsideOut

tsk, tsk, tsk...shame on you!

Shari

[dwightdi]

If you set the Reese up right it should not move. Do you have a twin cam or just the weight distribution system with the frictional dampener? Pictures might help if you have them. Otherwise take it to your local WBCCI meeting and you will be flooded with volunteers willing to tell what you should do. Only believe half of them (the other half does not really understand the particulars of any setup).

[Boondocker]

Originally Posted by dwightdi

If you set the Reese up right it should not move. Do you have a twin cam or just the weight distribution system with the frictional dampener? Pictures might help if you have them. Otherwise take it to your local WBCCI meeting and you will be flooded with volunteers willing to tell what you should do. Only believe half of them (the other half does not really understand the particulars of any setup).

It is a weight distribution system with friction damper. The nearest WBCCI unit that I would want any part of is 1200 miles to the west.

[Royce]

Lew gave a good answer. Properly adjusted either one should be good. I would add that I also have the Equal-i-zer. Just completed my first long trip. 1,000 miles across Wyoming and back. Strong quartering head wind and side wind on the blue hwy from Cheyenne to New Castle on the way out. Stayed between 60-65 MPH. No sway and couldn't tell any difference when met or passed by large trucks. Bikers were few that day but the ones out were leaning well into the wind. I replaced the older Reese that came on the Minuet with the Equal-i-zer but only because the Reese didn't have any sway control built in.

[bryanl]

From the reports in the various RV forums, both are a step better than they typical RV supplied friction bar. Both seem to be about equivalent in performance.

Both the Eq and the DC are friction damping devices although the DC is sold otherwise. (calculate the friction on the 'cam' vs the cam forces and see for yourself). Both can be noisy in turns.

The DC is a good choice if you already have a Reese or EAZ Lift hitch as it can be added.

The Eq does not require any holes or welding to the A frame and may be a better choice if you are starting anew with a hitch.

On the Eq, you adjust the friction with bolt torque. With the DC, you have to more carefully set the load on the spring bars to influence the damping.

Whichever route you go, make sure you get a hitch and spring bars properly rated for your tongue and trailer weight. Keep in mind Dallas' adjustment guide:

"Adjust the hitch ball height to 'level' the trailer"
"Adjust the weight distributing bars to 'level' the tow vehicle"
"Adjust the hitch head angle to 'level' the bars."

I do note that those installing the Eq often seem to have a lot more 'fun' playing with adjustments to get their rig 'just so' as if a few millimeters might make a difference. ;-)

The DC seems to be more popular in the Airstream crowd although the Eq population is growing. (did anyone do a hitch census at the I'Rally?)

[Boondocker]

I have no idea what a DC is. Are you refering to the Reese hitch?

[lewster]

Rodney,

DC = dual cam sway control

[Boondocker]

Thanks, I dont think that applies. I have spring bars connected by chain to filp clips.

[jcanavera]

I've owned both the Dual Cam and the Equal-i-zer. When I upgraded to the Classic I was pretty much forced to also do a hitch upgrade due to the hitch weight exceeding 1,000 lbs. While I was happy with the dual-cam, I kept hearing about the good experiences folks were having with the Equal-i-zer. I asked my dealer and he said that in his experience Reece customers who switched to the Equal-i-zer were coming back with positive reports.

Personally my dual cam was used with a 27' Safari. The current trailer is a 30' Classic Slide. The tow vehicle is the same that handled both trailers. From my side the Classic seems to be much more stable in cross winds and when passed by tractor trailers. Not that the Safari and Reece dual cam combo was bad, I just don't feel the little wiggle with the Classic Equal-i-zer combo that I used to notice with the Safari. Now is the heavier hitch weight the difference or the fact that the Classic weights about 2,000 lbs more? I'm not sure. But my experience seems to fit into what the dealer told me.

Bottom line they are both good hitches. Each just uses a different method to fight sway.

Jack

[bryanl]

I have spring bars connected by chain to filp clips.

This is typical of the Reese and EAZ Lift type hitches. The Dual Cam is an additional mechanism that connects near the ends of the spring bars (where the chain attaches to them) to a 'cam' via a short 'lever' - the picture at Hitch Setup shows an old DC. Because the DC can be added on to the most common load leveling hitches, and costs about half that of a new Equal-i-zer to add on, it is a common upgrade sway control.

Also note that Blue Ox makes a similar sway control hitch that functions like an Equal-i-zer but uses a trap for the chains lifting the spring bars rather than the L bracket that the Eq uses.

sorry for the jargon. EQ is shorthand for Equal-i-zer brand and DC for the Resse Dual Cam brand.

If money is no object and (deleted) then the Hensley Arrow or Pullrite hitches are the way to go. These control sway by moving the pivot point forward making the trailer behave more like a 5th wheel rig. The HA, in particular, has very enthusiastic fans. I am surprised they haven't chipped in here yet extolling its virtues! ;-)

[lewster]

Originally Posted by InsideOut

tsk, tsk, tsk...shame on you!

Shari

Of course, that 75 MPH speed was attained briefly at the TOP of a 6% grade that was 4 miles long with the 155 HP diesel in my Sprinter.

[azflycaster]

Bryan ~ In the picture of the Reese DC that you had the link to. Is that a home made handle that someone attached to the trunion head? If so, it's a great idea. Those things weigh a ton. How is it made and attached?

[Royce]

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

Thanks, I dont think that applies. I have spring bars connected by chain to filp clips.

If that is all you have then it is the same type that I had. By the time I would have added the correct stinger and sway control to the older hitch it was within a hundred dollars of a new Equal-i-zer. The orginal stinger was for a car and much too high when used with the Wrangler. BTW I sold the old hitch on Craigs list for $125 to a fella that wanted it for his utility trailer. Worked good for both of us.

[bryanl]

Is that a home made handle that someone attached to the trunion head? If so, it's a great idea. Those things weigh a ton. How is it made and attached?

Let's see, that's a NorCal member, I think. Susanville, 2004 or so.

Looks to be a couple of fairly stout straps bolted to the shank through the existing holes for the ball mount assembly with a bolt through handle. - shouldn't be too hard to put together. I'd think inch and a half or so by an eigth aluminum bar stock from the hardware store, some two inch by quarter 20 bolts with big washers would do it. The handle would need a 4 inch bolt and perhaps a half inch PVC or pex handle.

Note that if you didn't have an adjustable shank you'd need to drill holes in it. That might need some help with proper equipment and expertise.

This is one of the features of the EQ, btw - with the spring bars attached to the ball mount you have a good handle to wrastle the hitch around. You can lift between the spring bars and that is much easier on the back than trying to grap just a ball mount on shank.

Storing the hitch is also a discussion topic. An EQ is rather easy to pull of the tow vehicle and slide back in place on the trailer (just watch out for the shank hazard in front!). Other options for the EQ and the DC et al show just how creative trailer towers can be.