Receiver Hitch pin hole repair ?

[Davis]

Hi Ya`ll,
The receiver hitch on my 94 Chevy dually has a walloed pin hole and is causing a clunk when I stop and start with the trailer.I can remove the hitch head and actually move the pin back and fort in the hole about a 1/8 in maybe a little more. Can this hole be drilled and have a bushing put in or is there such repair available ? Thanks Davis

[john hd]

davis,

i see you tow a 34, if the hole is elongated i would reccomend replacing the whole reciever. it is already 12 years old and the hole may not be the only thing elongated.

last time i looked reese recievers are not that expensive, somewhere areound 150 to 200 bucks for a class 5.

you want to get it fixed because the movement could cause the pin to fail!

i certainly would not want to see a 34 loose out on the highway!

john

[Tin Diesel]

Searching for info on wear in the hitch receiver pin hole... I found this old thread.

I have developed a similar problem, although nowhere near as pronounced. It started during the brief period I used a Blue Ox WD hitch, but has continued with the Hensley.

1. Is this normal? Anybody else have similar issues?
2. If it gets bad enough is there any option other than replacing the receiver? The truck is three years old.

Thanks.

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Davis

Hi Ya`ll,
The receiver hitch on my 94 Chevy dually has a walloed pin hole and is causing a clunk when I stop and start with the trailer.I can remove the hitch head and actually move the pin back and fort in the hole about a 1/8 in maybe a little more. Can this hole be drilled and have a bushing put in or is there such repair available ? Thanks Davis

You may be able to fix it but why? Replace the entire hitch. The new Reese hitches have double holes designed for double pins. My front hitch has two holes my rear only has one. My stinger has two holes. I am tempted to replace my rear hitch since it was not designed for two holes.
check out http://etrailer.com

[Kevin245]

...Is your trailer worth the cost of a questionable hitch? I'm all for saving money whenever possible, but if it were me, I'd put safety first and pick up a new hitch.

I'd be concerned about fatigue. The repetitive impacting fore and aft of the hole has caused the metal to work harden, which typically increases the hardness of the metal in that area, at the cost of ductility. Which means the metal becomes more brittle. This condition can be demonstrated by opening up a paper clip in to an S-shape, then bend it back and forth 40 or 50 times. With each bend you work harden the paper clip until it snaps.

Regards,

Kevin

[blacksheep]

Take it to a reputable welding shop and they can drill out the wallowed hole and weld in bushings to fit the pin.

Godspeed,
Trent

[Tin Diesel]

I guess the bigger question is... does this happen to everyone?

[Kevin245]

Originally Posted by Tin Diesel

I guess the bigger question is... does this happen to everyone?

Hey TD,

My bet is that is does to some degree, but it is seldom checked until we start hearing unusual clunks and clanks. I really have to get down under the bumper to see the hole with any degree of clarity.


Regards,

Kevin

[richinny]

since they're now coming with two pin holes could you just drill a second hole where the second hole would be?

[Mikethefixit]

I think I'm with the majority here. I'd replace the whole receiver,U can probably replace the receiver for what a certified welder will charge you. Go rite to a U HAUL Shop they Have Reese I believe and will install at a reasonable price.I have added several hitches to various pickups I have owned.
I do recall some receivers that were bad that were installed by GM but I cannot recall what yrs. I do remember some welding and cracking issues.
Good Luck

[eubank]

If it's that way now, but not earlier, I'd go with the majority view here: Replace. Ours, however, was pretty loose from the get-go, and so I made a contraption with a square-top u-bolt (!) to tighten it up.

Lynn

[SteveH]

Not the exact same problem, but some of you may have read this thread where I tried to improve the sway control of my Reese Dual Cam hitch by using set screws to tighten the hitch in the receiver.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ong-47086.html

After the setscrew experiment had limited success, I found a thicker materialed receiver with less clearance between it and the hitch, and I replaced the square receiver portion in my hitch. Took the entire hitch off and took it to a welder, and had him remove the old receiver with a plasma cutter. (I first thought I could do it with a small grinder, but that did not work.) Then, I welded the new, heavier and tighter fitting receiver in place myself. I did the whole job on the cheap.

I realize this is not an option for everyone, but just thought I'd mention that it can be done without too much difficulty.

[Silverhobby]

I have a 1996 F-350 that has towed a 34' trailer the majority of it's towing duty. I have the elongated hole in the receiver and have the same "clunk" when starting and stopping. I had a mechanic check the universal joints in the long driveshaft and found quite a bit of the problem to be there.

[DEITZ645]

I too suffer from the elongated hitch pin hole and its related "CLUNK" when stopping and starting. This one is on an '06 GMC 2500. It looks like a Class V receiver will be in order before next season. In the Pictures you can see the slop and the mushrooming of the steel around the pin hole.

[Bexner]

I have a 29' 1970 Ambassador tow it with 2008 2500 HD chevy .I reamed out the receiver. Replaced it with a new one and after 2000 miles it has reamed out the pin hole again.I have changed the pressure on leveling bars.I keep the weight in the AStream well balanced. I have smoothed out stops and starts .I cant believe my friends might be right in my extreme driving . Two pin hole system the answer?

[polarlyse]

I went through this just last year with our F350 pickup with only 30k miles on it. Ford refused to cover it under warranty claiming it was caused by an outside force. They could not give me an example of what outside force could cause it. They wanted $900 to replace it with theirs. I replaced it with a comparable receiver from Curt for $170 from Amazon with free delivery. Not worth loosing any sleep. Replace it and sleep at night.

[AWCHIEF]

Bexner, welcome. buy a new aftermarket hitch receiver.They are probably better quality than what ever is on your vehicle and actually come with a warranty. I have no idea how you drive but it is something to consider. Good luck.

[PKI]

Seems like another application where doublers would be of use to upgrade the strength of the receiver. Press fit drill bushings might be a way to improve the pin bearing surface a bit too.

Not seen this issue, so first question is why. Consider -

1) Spent a period of time in a car pool. One of the drivers was either on the gas or on the brakes. Drove me nuts. Smooth transitions save equipment and people too. Ease on the brakes to slow and ease on the accelerator to merge, pass or get up to cruise velocity.

2) High boost on the brake controller can hammer the hitch at every brake application even if you are smooth. Check it - trailer first is good, but should not be an aggressive over application of force.

3) The trailer brakes are grabby .... out of round ..... pulsate when applied.

4) You drive on roads that have a surface which sets up a fore and aft acceleration. Could raise and lower the hitch shank to work the hole vertically as well.

Or, the receiver is just soft material. Which is not as bad as too hard = break.

Good luck with your investigation. Pat