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Old 05-26-2017, 06:28 PM   #15
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1970 29' Ambassador
Ketchum , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1
I have a 29' 1970 Ambassador tow it with 2008 2500 HD chevy .I reamed out the receiver. Replaced it with a new one and after 2000 miles it has reamed out the pin hole again.I have changed the pressure on leveling bars.I keep the weight in the AStream well balanced. I have smoothed out stops and starts .I cant believe my friends might be right in my extreme driving . Two pin hole system the answer?

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Old 06-15-2017, 03:42 PM   #16
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2001 30' Excella
Somerset , New Jersey
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,175
I went through this just last year with our F350 pickup with only 30k miles on it. Ford refused to cover it under warranty claiming it was caused by an outside force. They could not give me an example of what outside force could cause it. They wanted $900 to replace it with theirs. I replaced it with a comparable receiver from Curt for $170 from Amazon with free delivery. Not worth loosing any sleep. Replace it and sleep at night.

Roger in NJ

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Old 06-15-2017, 04:38 PM   #17
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2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Bexner, welcome. buy a new aftermarket hitch receiver.They are probably better quality than what ever is on your vehicle and actually come with a warranty. I have no idea how you drive but it is something to consider. Good luck.

Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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Old 06-15-2017, 06:03 PM   #18
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2015 23' FB Flying Cloud
Walnut Creek , California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,383
Seems like another application where doublers would be of use to upgrade the strength of the receiver. Press fit drill bushings might be a way to improve the pin bearing surface a bit too.

Not seen this issue, so first question is why. Consider -

1) Spent a period of time in a car pool. One of the drivers was either on the gas or on the brakes. Drove me nuts. Smooth transitions save equipment and people too. Ease on the brakes to slow and ease on the accelerator to merge, pass or get up to cruise velocity.

2) High boost on the brake controller can hammer the hitch at every brake application even if you are smooth. Check it - trailer first is good, but should not be an aggressive over application of force.

3) The trailer brakes are grabby .... out of round ..... pulsate when applied.

4) You drive on roads that have a surface which sets up a fore and aft acceleration. Could raise and lower the hitch shank to work the hole vertically as well.

Or, the receiver is just soft material. Which is not as bad as too hard = break.

Good luck with your investigation. Pat

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