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Old 10-07-2016, 09:18 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by field & stream View Post
dznf0g - thanks, that is helpful. (I agree on the shortcomings of my bubble approach, but the ground may not be level either so maybe there is no way we can be certain.)
Yes you will almost never find level ground outside. That is why we usually say parallel to the ground rather than level. Use a ruler to measure the frame height front and rear. Shot for within a 1/2 in., about as good as you can get with most hitch shanks. Favoring the front as higher.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:27 AM   #22
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Yes you will almost never find level ground outside. That is why we usually say parallel to the ground rather than level. Use a ruler to measure the frame height front and rear. Shot for within a 1/2 in., about as good as you can get with most hitch shanks. Favoring the front as higher.
I live in Illinois....everything is pretty much level...over the length of the rig anyway. My measurements are taken where you see me parked in my avatar.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:39 AM   #23
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The reason I suggested to favor the front as being higher is that increases the tongue weight whereas if it is lower that reduces the tongue weight. This is a function of the type of axles used.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #24
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ProPride - What is too high in the front?

Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
The reason I suggested to favor the front as being higher is that increases the tongue weight whereas if it is lower that reduces the tongue weight. This is a function of the type of axles used.

Good point. On a leaf sprung twin axle the balancer link keeps equal weight on both axles independent of the trailer angle. On a torsion axle, raising the front reduces the load on the front axle and increases tongue weight. This is even more pronounced if the axles are old and stiff.

Edit. This can be seen on a trailer with a weak tongue jack. Raising the tongue adds load to the jack and like my old trailer, the jack limits out. Before I installed the interior I could lower the tongue and lift it slightly by hand. It was almost balanced on the front axle.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:30 AM   #25
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Trouble is, this is being discussed with the trailer in a static mode. When moving, the axles pitch following the road surface, the weight of the trailer shifting with it. I like level but favor lower in front slightly if I cannot adjust to level.

When there is a shift in weight, I think it is better to shift forward than back for sway resistance and traction on the truck's rear axle, and that is more likely with the front adjusted level or slightly low.

Open to discussion, this has been my perception.
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:13 PM   #26
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slowmover -- thanks for an informed and valuable posting, but it is not remotely close to answering the question: "The question is, how little out of level is still acceptable? For example is a quarter bubble OK? Half a bubble? A bubble barely out?"

Numbers work because they can be replicated. The rig can be "off" even when the numbers are the same due to work suspension on either vehicle, under inflated tires, etc.

But only a certified scale is level IN ITSELF.

Full propane, full fresh water plus normal gear aboard the TT at a minimum.

Weight representative in the TV loaded for camping, full fuel and all passengers aboard. Get this reading once and it can duplicated w/o passengers, etc.

Rough it in at home using TV fender to ground measurements. One setting or another will come closest to "level" on the TT. A hair nose down (as seen on a level, not otherwise obvious) is the mark.

Make the usual three passes across the scale and check level after any adjustments which bring measured WD to best spec.

Not worth screwing around with it until the whole thing is as close as one can make it. THEN any new components or alterations may be warranted.

With WD "ideal" what then is the load per TT wheel position? Now check the level in the doorframe while on the scale.

Most give up too early.
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:05 PM   #27
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Go to the Can Am RV Centre website. See Andrew Thomsons article on setting torsion bars (44.1; 1/16). Posts here as Andrew_T.

Work from the larger picture. The END result is a level trailer. Use of numbers from a scale (the refined, but repeatable approach) makes any changes obvious.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:39 PM   #28
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Can someone let me know the approximate hight of the trailer ball with trailer level. I just got a 2016 dodge ram 4x4 3500 diesel and it's pretty high. I have to go pick up my 2016 flying cloud and I need to know how much of a drop hitch to buy.
Thanks
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:54 PM   #29
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If your using the pro pride you really don't need a drop. When I bought by '16 Ram 3500 I spoke with Sean and he said use the lowest setting. I measured it all out and went one up from the bottom. With the air suspension it is level. With no air suspension it would be in the middle so that when the weight goes on the back end it would be level.
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:39 PM   #30
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I just looked up what a pro pride is. I used to be a professional over the road trucker. In my mind an equalizer hitch is a bandage. I read all the messages and most guys were pulling a 34' trailer with a Ford F-150. That's crazy. I will be towing a 30' airstream with a dodge 3500 diesel. That truck would easily pull two air streams? I too have the air suspension.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:57 PM   #31
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The right F150 with a PP hitch hooked to your trailer will get down the road past where you with your truck have rolled.

Also stop sooner.

Why those things are is worth your time in learning.
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Old 12-09-2016, 08:29 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by deserthi View Post
I just looked up what a pro pride is. I used to be a professional over the road trucker. In my mind an equalizer hitch is a bandage. I read all the messages and most guys were pulling a 34' trailer with a Ford F-150. That's crazy. I will be towing a 30' airstream with a dodge 3500 diesel. That truck would easily pull two air streams? I too have the air suspension.
If you are pulling with a truck that is twice what is needed, you don't know how to properly spec a tool for the job. Over-spec'ing is wasteful and unnecessary. I am willing to bet you employer never Over-spec'ed the trucks you drove.....or they would be out of business. Just the right tool for the job is the correct TV.....oh, and no wd hitch is a "bandage" regardless of the size or capability of the TV.
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Old 12-10-2016, 04:12 AM   #33
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The right F150 with a PP hitch hooked to your trailer will get down the road past where you with your truck have rolled.

Also stop sooner.

Why those things are is worth your time in learning.
Opinions, everyone seems to have one. Voicing your opinion is fine, attacking someone else's is juvenile, argumentative, and non productive. It gets old.
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Old 01-01-2017, 09:47 PM   #34
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I had some issues on how my dealer installed my PP. I sent close-ups of the hitch to Sean. He quickly sent back specific recommendations for changes. I followed his recommendations and am happy with the results. Result was a nearly perfectly level trailer.
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